Thread: Feeler FTL 618

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  1. #1
    OK, I've got my lathe. I had hoped that it would be a worker when it arrived but I was a bit disappointed as the carriage assembly was hanging out and the whole thing was covered in thick sticky crap. I have now stripped down the carriage assmbly, cleaned and repainted and there is no wear whatsoever. Feeling a bit better about it.

    The lathe is a dual imperial metric gearbox and feeds with lubrication.
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  2. It looks in generally good order :)

    Feeler seems to have copied the Hardinge exactly, so it might be worth checking for wear in the carriage drive gear (a HLV weak spot).

    If you don't know already, the apron gearbox uses automatic transmission fluid (e.g. TQF) and Mobil Vactra in the Carriage oiler reservoir.

    Very envious of the english/metric gearbox (BTW are those change gear necessary?)

  3. #3
    Thanks for the advice on the oil Bill, I was going to use the gearbox oil for my Myford. I've now ordered an Hardinge maintenence manual, so maybe I'll not screw up in future.

    I have now stripped down and cleaned the carriage wheel assembly and it shows some wear as you suggested. It looks like some cutting fluid ingress has caused some rot on the drive gear (see thumbnail).

    Also, the dual dial models have an idler gear which causes the dials to move at different speeds when selecting imperial or metric (see thumbnail). The pin and idler are very worn on the carriage feed but are near mint on the top slide as you would expect. I don.t know if this is the same in the HLV. Anyway, any idea where I can get spares for these things, as whilst I'm at it I may as well change the pin and idler in all of the feeds. If I can I'll also change the carriage drive gear.

    Just to add more work I have extended my shop and will be preparing the floor so that I can move this thing into place, so maybe the pace will slow for a day or two.
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  4. The carriage handle gear has taken a bit of a pounding (water/coolant ingress into the apron?) but it's relatively unimportant to the finish you'll get, so don't worry too much. It the gear that that gear drives (IYSWIM), the carriage drive gear, that suffers bearing failure in the Hardinge.

    It might be an idea to crack open the apron just to check there's nothing untoward inside. It's not difficult to strip down.

    I don.t know if this is the same in the HLV. Anyway, any idea where I can get spares for these things,
    Mine's imperial only it doesn't that the dual scales. You might try ringing ZMT (don't bother emailing they "don't have email in the workshop") but HLV-EMs are like hen's teeth, so you may have to make do and mend. I.e. make a new pin and fit a bronze sleeve into the idler gear.

  5. #5
    Not much use rebushing the idler gear, it's well worn (no teeth left), fortunately it's not hardenned so the drive gear is fine. However, I've checked out the Hardinge US site and they have full parts lists for the HLV models including the HLV/EM. As the feeler looks like a pretyy exact copy I'm going to order the idler gears and pins direct from Hardinge. Hardinge UK tell me they do spares for the HLV so maybe I'll strike lucky and not have to order from the US.
    You can find the full Hardinge Parts Lists at the follwong URL: http://www.shophardinge.com/partslist.aspx

    I think, following Tom's advice. I'll strip down the entire saddle and replace any worn parts whilst I'm at it. There's a pretty good bearing place close to me and I should be able to get all the bearings over the counter. Looking at the parts list, I'm surprised how many bits there are. My previous experience is on a Myford Super 7B so I'm really looking forward to much more accuracy and better finish when this is done.

    I'll post more pictures as I go.

  6. #6
    Lee Roberts's Avatar
    Lives in Wigan, United Kingdom. Current Activity: Viewing Moderator Control Panel Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 2,545. Received thanks 161 times, giving thanks to others 652 times. Made a monetary donation to the upkeep of the community. Referred 10 members to the community.
    Quote Originally Posted by pfincham View Post
    I'll strip down the entire saddle and replace any worn parts whilst I'm at it.
    I think that would be a good choice mate, will save you doing it later on if you decide you want to. You never know what you may find ether !

    I'v copyed your post over to the Links section as well under [ame="http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=1112"]Hardinge Parts List[/ame] for other people, thanks for sharing that info/link.

    Look forward to following your progress, i dont have a lathe and have never used one but i really wish i had one. We never even had one at school so i didnt get the chance there ether !

    Just somthing about taking one and doing it back up/restoring it that has my intrest.
    .Me

  7. I'm really looking forward to much more accuracy and better finish when this is done.
    You will be amazed :)

  8. #8
    Make sure you are sitting down before calling them, failing that move all things with sharp sticky out bits so you don't hit them on the way down..:rofl:
    John S -

  9. Not much use rebushing the idler gear, it's well worn (no teeth left)
    That's a bugger!

    Hardinge gears use an obscure DP (18?) and pressure angle. Feeler may not have copied it exactly. It'd be a good idea to double check them before you buy an expensive Hardinge part


    [edit] It's well worth stripping down the carriage.There are oil ways and pipe in the rear of the HLV that should be checked while you're there.
    oil distro

    BTW later HLV-Hs (not mine :() had a PTFE/teflon coating on the underside of the carriage. Careful, if your Feeler has the same, it is apparently fairly soft and easily damaged.


    [edit]
    Phew - Just realised you were talking about the EM dial idler gear not the carriage drive gear!
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    Last edited by BillTodd; 10-08-2009 at 11:19 PM. Reason: penny drops

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by BillTodd View Post
    That's a bugger!

    Hardinge gears use an obscure DP (18?) and pressure angle. Feeler may not have copied it exactly. It'd be a good idea to double check them before you buy an expensive Hardinge part
    If you means the gear on the end of the carriage handwheel shaft, it's 21
    teeth, 22/29DP stub form 20deg PA, 1/2" bore, .318 width.

    That makes it 1.0235 OD.

    Which is a reet weird bastard.

    .
    John S -

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