Thread: Feeler FTL 618

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  1. I just want to say a public thank you to Peter for getting a couple of Hardinge belts for my HLV-H


    Cheers mate I owe you one

  2. #22
    Been away on holiday so nothnig done for a while. However, I have received parts from Hardinge so I can get on with it now.

    First thing is to get the machine painted, I'll do the tray and leave the cabinet till the end. I have now completed the tail stock. I stipped it down, cleaned it andely checked all parts. Fortunately no wear and it looks like the bearing had been replaced. It's all adjusted and just need fitting.
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    Last edited by pfincham; 22-09-2009 at 03:15 PM. Reason: Added pictures

  3. #23
    Right guys, I need to get this bit off so I can paint it. Do I need some kind of "c" key or what. I've had a go at unscrewing but it seems so tight I'm not sure if may be the threads left handed or something. I can undo the locking ring in the middle and loosen the end plate but that's it.

    Any ideas.
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  4. Quote Originally Posted by pfincham View Post
    Right guys, I need to get this bit off so I can paint it. Do I need some kind of "c" key or what. I've had a go at unscrewing but it seems so tight I'm not sure if may be the threads left handed or something. I can undo the locking ring in the middle and loosen the end plate but that's it.

    Any ideas.
    Hi Pete,

    That's the collet locking ring (it is keyed to the spindle so don't try to turn it), believe it or not it will just pull off - even after 48yrs, my one is still such a good fit, that it will refuse to budge if it isn't pulled absolutely straight.

    I suggest you just tap in on all the way with a light (100g) plastic hammer, then grasp it with the 5 fingers of one hand and gently pull it straight back.

    Putting it back on is a similar technique; if it doesn't slide on first time you have to stop remove it, take a breath, and try again.

    Once the collect locking ring is off, there should be a coiled cir-clip that holds the hand wheel in place. Don't lose the woodruff keys.

    BTW tail stock looks great :)

  5. #25
    Thanks Bill,

    That was fairly easy; I had a couple of goes at tapping all around and then it just pulled off as easy as that.
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  6. Quote Originally Posted by pfincham View Post
    Thanks Bill,

    That was fairly easy; I had a couple of goes at tapping all around and then it just pulled off as easy as that.
    BTW that hole, twixt spindle and casing, is where the new top belt has to be threaded into, over the intermediate gear bearing and past the spindle pulley - the belt is 1" wide, the gap on the Hardinge is no more than 1/4"

    I looked at it, thought 'impossible'; I had already lost two knuckles and stabbed myself with the switch rod (that you use to hook the old belt off the pulley) while removing the old belt.

    Re-read the belt replacement instructions, looked again thought 'definitely impossible'; considered removing the gearbox.

    Re-read the belt replacement instructions ; "Cross spindle belt; and feed through gear box headstock and down into pedestal..."

    I then realised this is a test of faith: you twist the belt into the form of an early Christian cross (or possibly an Egyptian Ankh) feed in into the hole then, in a piece of magic befitting Derren Brown, the belt materialises in the pedestal.

    How this happens remains unquestioned - it is enough to just 'believe'.

    The motor belt merely requires the sacrifice of ones remaining knuckles...
    Last edited by BillTodd; 23-09-2009 at 10:22 PM.

  7. Just came across this Cyclematic 618 Service manual, it might help if any parts of your Feeler vary from the Hardinge:

    http://www.scribd.com/doc/20582663/HARDINGE-HLVH-SERVICE-PARTS"]HARDINGE HLV-H SERVICE & PARTS

  8. #28
    Thanks Bill, that's really usefull; I looked everywhere for one of these. By the way, things have severely slowed down over the last couple of weeks. I've had a terrible job stabilising the paint. I had a local paint supplier mix me some single pack epoxy for brush painting which gave a supurb finish. unfortunately they failed to tell me this was designed as a single top coat and took about 7 - 10 days to fully dry. So, when I applied the second coat two days later patches wrinkled up all over the place. I have been rubbing down and primer etching bits for the last couple of weeks and am almost there. Hopefully I will be able to apply the top coat again in the not to distant.

  9. when I applied the second coat two days later patches wrinkled up all over the place.
    BTDT had to redo several parts of mine because of the bloody paint wrinkling like that :(

  10. #30
    I finally got round to painting the top coat for the bed, headstock and gearbox. Having got a handle on the paint problem I found that a light rub down to the gearbox, followed by a really good clean using a spirit based degreaser was the best start. I've used etching primer on the bare metal followed by a number of coats of high build primer to fill in the chips. Rub this down to a nice smooth finish, then top coat.
    After each coat I cleaned down with the spirit decreaser and used a tack rag prior to the paint application.
    It sounds easy but was a real pain before I got the format right. I've had the heat on in the workshop for 10 days now and will leave it on for another week while the top coat fully cures.

    Have a look at the pics. not bad for brush finish!!
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