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  1. #41
    Quote Originally Posted by Nickhofen View Post
    I will message the seller,Thanks!
    One more silly question..For X (long axe) what side is better the extrusion lay on the bed side, the sort(45) or the thick(90), for matter of stability.
    90mm in vertical
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

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  3. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by Clive S View Post
    Yes use two pieces one flat and one upright like an L. Then drill the upright one down the channel slot and bolt it to the flat one with tee nuts M6 90mm cap head
    Hmm I'm at this stage myself but I was thinking about drilling through the bottom extrusion and use tee nuts in the upper extrusion and cap head screws with washers to fill out the t slots. Then use the holes I drilled to tighten the screws. What do you all say about that?

    Skickat från min SM-N910C via Tapatalk

  4. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by Nr1madman View Post
    Hmm I'm at this stage myself but I was thinking about drilling through the bottom extrusion and use tee nuts in the upper extrusion and cap head screws with washers to fill out the t slots. Then use the holes I drilled to tighten the screws. What do you all say about that?

    Skickat från min SM-N910C via Tapatalk
    The way I described has been done and tested many times. So why change?
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  5. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by Clive S View Post
    The way I described has been done and tested many times. So why change?
    Well the way I described was just the way that felt most logical to me.. read a few build logs but didn't grasp that everyone was going the way you described :)
    This is perfect! Now I have something to think about tonight hehe

    Skickat från min SM-N910C via Tapatalk

  6. #45
    Hi Nick,

    As per your pm:
    Your requirements are to cut wood, guitar bodies, and occasional aluminium.

    The L shaped gantry in a pair of 90x45 extrusions has been used many times on this forum and will cut your requirements as above. At 900 mm gantry width it is starting to get a bit wide, but I would say still OK.

    The raised X axis can also use 90x45 extrusion so long as there are plenty of supporting uprights connecting it back to the main bed.

    Would this be good enough or should you use steel? Well, I would say you are OK to use aluminium profile on the gantry and the X axis and still cut the requirements above. If however you want to do regular aluminium cutting then I would upgrade the raised X axis sides to steel.

    Here are some aluminium gantry, steel sided machines:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMAG0730.jpg 
Views:	71 
Size:	320.9 KB 
ID:	22667

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMAG1088.jpg 
Views:	65 
Size:	371.7 KB 
ID:	22668

    You wanted to use profile to avoid using epoxy leveling - well I've not found the profile extrusion to be particularly level and flat. You can buy specially machined profile, but regular stuff is not likely to be flat. If you don't want to epoxy level you can always shim the rails manually, but need a master straight edge to compare to.
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  7. #46
    Your project is going well !
    Congrats !

    I have some positive news..
    Mostly ... In most-all alu designs/builds I have seen, little to no serious alu cutting has been done.
    BUT..
    You can later upgrade the machine stiffness, pretty easily, imho.
    If You do need to, that is.
    It will be perfectly feasible to drill/ream a few dowel pins, through clamped flats into the alu, and fix steel flats onto the sides of any beams.
    And You can even fix them mostly by gluing .. if You use industrial epoxy glues.
    And yes, they are strong enough, and no, they wont reduce rigidity.

    As-is, I would not give any advice.
    You have a pretty good path, and it is likely to work out very well for wood.
    And with suitable parameters it will likely do some alu, with hsm toolpaths and smallish cutters.

    But rigidity-needed is related to machine work-envelope size, esp. free-length ie the working length of your beam.
    900 mm is pretty big.
    A mechmate at 1200 mm beam is pretty close, and they are a near-professional tool, in steel, heavy and expensive to build.

    In a nutshell;
    looks good.
    Likely to give great results in wood.
    Well done.
    Keep going.
    If You need to, *anything* can always be upgraded.

  8. #47
    Quote Originally Posted by routercnc View Post
    Hi Nick,

    As per your pm:
    Your requirements are to cut wood, guitar bodies, and occasional aluminium.

    The L shaped gantry in a pair of 90x45 extrusions has been used many times on this forum and will cut your requirements as above. At 900 mm gantry width it is starting to get a bit wide, but I would say still OK.

    The raised X axis can also use 90x45 extrusion so long as there are plenty of supporting uprights connecting it back to the main bed.

    Would this be good enough or should you use steel? Well, I would say you are OK to use aluminium profile on the gantry and the X axis and still cut the requirements above. If however you want to do regular aluminium cutting then I would upgrade the raised X axis sides to steel.

    Here are some aluminium gantry, steel sided machines:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMAG0730.jpg 
Views:	71 
Size:	320.9 KB 
ID:	22667

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMAG1088.jpg 
Views:	65 
Size:	371.7 KB 
ID:	22668

    You wanted to use profile to avoid using epoxy leveling - well I've not found the profile extrusion to be particularly level and flat. You can buy specially machined profile, but regular stuff is not likely to be flat. If you don't want to epoxy level you can always shim the rails manually, but need a master straight edge to compare to.
    Thank you and all the other guys for taking the time to reply to my questions here at the thread and at my pms also, it is a priceless feeling to know that people who do not know you, suport you this way!
    Last edited by Nickhofen; 01-09-2017 at 09:01 PM.

  9. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by hanermo2 View Post
    Your project is going well !
    Congrats !

    I have some positive news..
    Mostly ... In most-all alu designs/builds I have seen, little to no serious alu cutting has been done.
    BUT..
    You can later upgrade the machine stiffness, pretty easily, imho.
    If You do need to, that is.
    It will be perfectly feasible to drill/ream a few dowel pins, through clamped flats into the alu, and fix steel flats onto the sides of any beams.
    And You can even fix them mostly by gluing .. if You use industrial epoxy glues.
    And yes, they are strong enough, and no, they wont reduce rigidity.

    As-is, I would not give any advice.
    You have a pretty good path, and it is likely to work out very well for wood.
    And with suitable parameters it will likely do some alu, with hsm toolpaths and smallish cutters.

    But rigidity-needed is related to machine work-envelope size, esp. free-length ie the working length of your beam.
    900 mm is pretty big.
    A mechmate at 1200 mm beam is pretty close, and they are a near-professional tool, in steel, heavy and expensive to build.

    In a nutshell;
    looks good.
    Likely to give great results in wood.
    Well done.
    Keep going.
    If You need to, *anything* can always be upgraded.
    Hi there.
    Thanks for the positive feedback.
    So if I understand right you suggest to screw or glue, in the future, pieces of steel on one side of aluminum extrusions for rigidity purpose? That sounds as a good plan!

  10. #49
    I place the order for the aluminium extrusions, it seems that something starts to happen with this build. :-)
    Except for the higher noise level between air cooled VFD spindles vs water cooled spindles, is there another reason why not to take a 2.2kW Chinese aircooled VFD spindle? I found one aircooled with four bearings, shipped from Europe and the price looks good, to me.
    I will post the link tomorrow when I get back home.

  11. #50
    Quote Originally Posted by Nickhofen View Post
    I place the order for the aluminium extrusions, it seems that something starts to happen with this build. :-)
    Except for the higher noise level between air cooled VFD spindles vs water cooled spindles, is there another reason why not to take a 2.2kW Chinese aircooled VFD spindle? I found one aircooled with four bearings, shipped from Europe and the price looks good, to me.
    I will post the link tomorrow when I get back home.
    The only reason I know is that if you want to run it at a low speed say 7K then the fan will not put as much air across the spindle so could possibly heat up. But for me a WC one is a no brainer
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

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