Thread: big budget cnc

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  1. #51
    Quote Originally Posted by Davek0974 View Post
    I like Fusion, yes its cloud but you can save copies locally too. ;)
    I've heard Fusion is good but the guys I work with everyday keep telling me to buy solidworks but at 20k not been in the mood lol, especially as they upgrade every year so I would have to go the 5k a year upgrade path lol. I believe Fusion is not free if used commercially but never checked the licensing out because if I did change cad it would be to solidworks as I have never come across 1 manufacturer that does not use solidworks now and I've dealt with injection moulders, vac formers & plastic/aluminium extruders on a daily basis for 6 years.

    If I couldn't save locally then it would just be a joke of a program but being able to save locally does not make it secure just at least usable.

  2. #52
    You can import files from SW to fusion360 if that helps. Being secure for the average hobbyist is not the end of the world when it is free.

    Its hard to find a free cad cam package as good as fusion.
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  3. The Following User Says Thank You to Clive S For This Useful Post:


  4. #53
    Quote Originally Posted by pet30 View Post
    the frame could i make it out of 50x50x3 mm or do i need to use bigger and heaver steel?
    i found this shop in holland i think the price is ok because i need supported rails of 3 meter long

    https://www.hardware-cnc.nl/en/shop/...ted-round-rail
    Anyway getting back on track with your build. I would start with the design of router bed first and then decide what you need to stand it on. Or build it all in one piece. In my opinion 50x50x3 is not strong enough for what you are trying to achieve
    Last edited by Clive S; 29-06-2017 at 06:28 PM.
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  5. #54
    Quote Originally Posted by Clive S View Post
    Anyway getting back on track with your build. I would start with the design of router bed first and then decide what you need to stand it on. Or build it all in one piece. In my opinion 50x50x3 is not strong enough for what you are trying to achieve
    2 years ago I had to build a punching machine (Hydraulic) for plastic I built it from 3mm box section AND it's not strong enough I have to run it about 1/4 the speed I built it to run to get decent results and I'm punching Polyprop. Any faster and the holes are not accurate! I heat the punchs to 230c as well to reduce stresses using nozzle heaters from injection moulding machines.

    I would think a minimum of 7mm would be needed if I wanted to make a steel router.

    I was shocked the stresses of punching plastic the aluminium casting we made wasn't strong enough to resist the forces and we had to recast in steel and on the first attempt the steel shrunk too much so we had to recast and grind to fit.

    If I had a cnc machine then would have been a lot more fun lol.
    Last edited by Desertboy; 29-06-2017 at 07:03 PM.

  6. #55
    pet30's Avatar
    Lives in antwerp, Belgium. Last Activity: 3 Weeks Ago Has been a member for 0-1 years. Has a total post count of 24. Received thanks 1 times, giving thanks to others 0 times.
    my cnc is only for routing parts drilling etc the max thicknes is 50 mm MDF for shelves and cabinets 18 mm thick.
    i know everything needs to be strong but if i weld the frame and bolt it to the ground is it not strong enough?

    i was thinking making the frame like this

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  7. #56
    I would add some triangulation trusses to the box frames - stop it twisting etc.

    If you were really good at carpentry there is no reason the base could not be made from timber, it would mean very tight joints and good design but the forces to resist for machining wood are not massive so i see no reason it could not be done. Cheaper in wood? I doubt it? Easier to build - not for me as i dislike wood and like metal but for a carpenter???

    Anyways, that frame needs triangulation or it will wobble each time the spindle changes direction rapidly.

  8. #57
    pet30's Avatar
    Lives in antwerp, Belgium. Last Activity: 3 Weeks Ago Has been a member for 0-1 years. Has a total post count of 24. Received thanks 1 times, giving thanks to others 0 times.
    Well a construction wooden beam is 68mmx38mm and kost about 1€ per meter
    steel 50x50x3 kost about 3 to 4 euro a meter

    so it will be a lot cheaper but jes then i would make it with haf lap joist and srew en glue everything together
    everything thats steel will be bolted trough the wood .

    and triangulation trusses in both way's?

  9. #58
    Quote Originally Posted by pet30 View Post

    and triangulation trusses in both way's?
    Definitely - the frame has to resist the thrust created by the spindle changing direction in all directions so a good sturdy base is essential. Downwards it needs to resist the weight of the material plus the force of the drill or tool etc, no sagging or spring so again, a good firm base is needed.

  10. #59
    Without triangulation if you use min 80x80x3. Otherwise as others said.

    Forget about "wood" and a "machine" in one sentence, "machine" and "steel" go better.

    You constantly use the word "cheap" but i wonder how much you would charge for a custom kitchen and so in Germany? As i know what we charge here Germans in Spain and they find it relatively cheap. Forget that word, make the machine and start making money.
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  11. #60
    You could save yourself a lot of money and time if you buy this but how much it would cost to Germany I'm not sure.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Linear-mot...wAAOSwCQZZLelQ

    I see an almost finished gantry when I look at this

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