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  1. #251
    Quote Originally Posted by Nr1madman View Post
    Okey, Im now in trouble again after mayor brainfreeze :)

    Have routed my homeswitches.
    I connected them in parallell.
    Brown wire = 24v
    Blue wire = gnd
    Black wire = signal to bob

    If I use this config I get 24v when measuring between black and blue.
    If one switch gets close to steel they all light up and the voltage goes to 0 between black and blue.

    If I use this paralell connection the bob gets supplied with 24v on the output pin?
    Should I instead connect it in series ?
    Can't get my mind around this :)
    Home switches, or limit switches? If all are going to a single input, then limit... What input (although you said output) are you connected to on BOB? E-Stop? Regardless, your BOB is probably looking for 5V, yes? If so, you need to make a voltage divider to take that 24V to ~5V - maybe an 18K/4.7K resistor divider.

    OTOH, I don't know squat about your BOB, controller, etc., so maybe I should just zip it...
    Last edited by wallyblackburn; 22-03-2018 at 01:53 PM.

  2. #252
    Quote Originally Posted by Nr1madman View Post
    If I use this paralell connection the bob gets supplied with 24v on the output pin?
    Should I instead connect it in series ?
    Can't get my mind around this :)
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    Just clarify "the bob gets supplied with 24v on the output pin?" - you mean the input pin, designated for the home switches? If "input" and not "output", then okay, I'm with you...

    You cannot (easily) connect proximity switches (NPN by the sound of it) in series - not without ancillary switch-gear. In parallel, with a common input into Mach3, and inverting the input in the set-up (if necessary), this should work fine.

    Provided, of course - the bob supports 24V input (most cheapies are 5V, but you can adapt these easily to 24V if necessary with a resistor) - sorry, not read back in the thread to check your bob.

    Can you explain more clearly your concern?

  3. #253
    Quote Originally Posted by wallyblackburn View Post
    Home switches, or limit switches? If all are going to a single input, then limit... What input (although you said output) are you connected to on BOB? E-Stop? Regardless, your BOB is probably looking for 5V, yes? If so, you need to make a voltage divider to take that 24V to ~5V - maybe an 18K/4.7K resistor divider.

    OTOH, I don't know squat about your BOB, controller, etc., so maybe I should just zip it...
    My simple bob handles 24v so thats fine.. you say input and that makes me think I did right :D

    Im going to use two inputs for homing (one for x y z and one for a which is slaved )
    Limits are for another input.
    Probe and e stop makes it full :)
    Have to get one more bob!


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  4. #254
    Quote Originally Posted by Doddy View Post
    Just clarify "the bob gets supplied with 24v on the output pin?" - you mean the input pin, designated for the home switches? If "input" and not "output", then okay, I'm with you...

    You cannot (easily) connect proximity switches (NPN by the sound of it) in series - not without ancillary switch-gear. In parallel, with a common input into Mach3, and inverting the input in the set-up (if necessary), this should work fine.

    Provided, of course - the bob supports 24V input (most cheapies are 5V, but you can adapt these easily to 24V if necessary with a resistor) - sorry, not read back in the thread to check your bob.

    Can you explain more clearly your concern?
    Thanks for helping!

    Well it seems Im confused as usual.
    Ment input and that makes it good I think ;)


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  5. #255
    Quote Originally Posted by Nr1madman View Post
    My simple bob handles 24v so thats fine.. you say input and that makes me think I did right :D

    Im going to use two inputs for homing (one for x y z and one for a which is slaved )
    Limits are for another input.
    Probe and e stop makes it full :)
    Have to get one more bob!
    I think we need to define home and limit. Home is a reference point, limit means "any further and something bad will happen". If you want to home each axis, you'll have to use an input for each axis. Limits can be connected to same input because, if any are tripped it is an error situation and you just want all to stop ASAP. You can then determine what the problem is.

    Does that make sense?

    Regards,
    Wallace

  6. #256
    Quote Originally Posted by wallyblackburn View Post
    I think we need to define home and limit. Home is a reference point, limit means "any further and something bad will happen". If you want to home each axis, you'll have to use an input for each axis. Limits can be connected to same input because, if any are tripped it is an error situation and you just want all to stop ASAP. You can then determine what the problem is.

    Does that make sense?

    Regards,
    Wallace
    Yes, total sense if you home all axis at the same time. You can actually home one axis at a time and back of the sensor so you can sense the next "home"

    When / if I buy another bob and get more inputs I can home all at the same time :)

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  7. #257
    Quote Originally Posted by Nr1madman View Post
    Yes, total sense if you home all axis at the same time. You can actually home one axis at a time and back of the sensor so you can sense the next "home"

    When / if I buy another bob and get more inputs I can home all at the same time :)

    Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk
    Not sure how you have it setup but you have 5 input pins this is how I am setting mine up. Z and Y1 sharing a pin, then X & Y2 on their own pin which leaves a pin for touch sensor and a pin for estop. Then set it up to home Z first then home X&Y at the same time. This is good for me as the Z is then always at the highest point before it moves the X/Y so clearing any brackets I have strung across the bed.

    I have Y1 and Y2 as I have 2 microswitches and 2 motors on the Y axis. So when it homes it can adjust itself square. This was a bitch to do in linuxcnc lol and I have to do it again when I set the Mesa up but shouldn't be so bad the 2nd time.

    I'd connect limits to the estop if you have separate ones after all you should never use them unless something has gone wrong but you can also wire all the limits to share the touch setter.
    Last edited by Desertboy; 22-03-2018 at 04:27 PM.
    http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/10880...60cm-work-area My first CNC build WIP 120cm*80cm

    If you didn't buy it from China the company you bought it from did ;)

  8. #258
    Got my z axis running like a kitten today :D
    So movement seems good!
    Connected vfd and spindle, starts and runs in the right direction :D
    Have connected the relay on the bob and 1-10v on the bob to the vfd.

    Now I have to set up the vfd.
    Don't look forward to this!!
    Have found several "guides" and lots of them contradict each other. Confusion is complete!

    Think I will follow this guide...
    The VFD parameters

    First, reset the VFD to factory settings. You don't know where that thing's been. On the front panel, hit PROG (or PRGM), and then the up and down buttons until you reach*PD013. Hit SET. Change the value to 8 using the up and down buttons. Hit SET again. Now your VFD is reset.
    For the next parameters, I've renamed them to make some kind of sense. For setting multi-digit values, use up and down to increase and decrease the value, and the >> key to move one digit to the right.
    PD001:*Command source. Set to 0. 0 means you're controlling the spindle via the front panel controls. 1 means you're using controls that you've wired up to the screw terminals. 2 means you're going to control it using RS-485.
    PD002:*Speed control source. Set to 1. 0 means you're controlling the speed through the up and down front panel buttons. 1 means you're going to control the speed with either the knob on the front or an external potentiometer. 2 means RS-485.
    When PD002 is set to 1, there is also a jumper next to the screw terminals that you have to set. If the jumper is on the right pair, the control is the front panel knob. If the jumper is on the left pair, the control is via an external potentiometer connected to the screw terminals. Make sure the jumper is on the*right-side pair.
    By the way, I found setting 0 pretty weird. You only get to see the speed as a frequency, not as RPM.
    PD003:*Default frequency. If PD002 was set to 0, this is the frequency the motor will start running at. The frequency is directly related to the speed. Since we set PD002 to 1, we can leave this alone. But you can set it to something like 200 Hz to start at mid-range.
    PD004:*Rated frequency: Apparently this is for motors with a fixed frequency. Since the spindle is variable frequency, this setting can be ignored.
    PD005*through*PD010*set three points on a voltage/frequency curve. As the motor ramps up to your desired speed, it follows this curve. The manual usefully shows three types of curve: constant torque, low torque, and high torque. I've set mine to the values for the constant torque graph (why not).
    I think that if you get a VFD with a spindle, the particular model of VFD comes with different factory settings for these depending on the spindle. Which is nice.
    PD005:*High-end frequency: 400 Hz
    PD006:*Middle frequency: 2.5 Hz
    PD007:*Low-end frequency: 0.5 Hz
    PD008:*High-end voltage: 220 V
    PD009:*Middle voltage: 15 V
    PD010:*Low-end voltage: 8 V
    PD011:*Minimum allowed frequency. Set to 120 Hz. Air-cooled spindles are not meant to stay at low speeds, otherwise they overheat. I understand that water-cooled spindles can go as slow as you want.
    Leave the next parameters alone, and skip to...
    PD070:*Speed control input: Set to 1. This means that the speed will be controlled by an input voltage between 0 and 5V. This is what the front panel knob delivers. 0 means 0-10V. 2 means the control is by an input current between 0 and 20mA. 3 means 4-20mA. 4 is a combination of voltage and current.
    PD071:*Speed control responsiveness: Leave at the factory setting of 20.
    PD072:*High-end frequency: Set to 400. This sets the frequency represented by the top end of the speed control.
    PD073:*Low-end frequency: Set to 120. This sets the frequency represented by the bottom end of the speed control.
    Now skip straight to...
    PD141:*Rated motor voltage: Set to 220V.
    PD142:*Rated motor current: Set to 10A.
    PD143:*Number of motor poles: Set to 4. This is the number of magnetic poles in the motor. It should be either 2 or 4, and is 4 for the 2.2kW spindle.
    PD144:*RPM at 50Hz: Set to 3000. Since the max RPM is 24000 at 400Hz, this means that the RPM at 50Hz will be 3000.
    That's it!


    Looking good those who know?

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  9. #259
    I've set just a few parameters on Automation Direct VFDs, but that looks like a decent guide. Take your time and double-check. Good luck.

    How much travel in your Z-Axis?

    Thanks,
    Wallace

  10. #260
    Quote Originally Posted by wallyblackburn View Post
    I've set just a few parameters on Automation Direct VFDs, but that looks like a decent guide. Take your time and double-check. Good luck.

    How much travel in your Z-Axis?

    Thanks,
    Wallace
    Thanks!

    Z axis has 140mm of travel..

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