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  1. #61
    In my setup it's just acting as the computer that interfaces with the ramps board through USB.
    Last edited by Zeeflyboy; 30-07-2017 at 10:50 PM.

  2. #62
    Washout's Avatar
    Lives in Bewdley, Worcs, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 10 Hours Ago Has been a member for 6-7 years. Has a total post count of 432. Received thanks 31 times, giving thanks to others 78 times. Made a monetary donation to the upkeep of the community.
    Quote Originally Posted by Zeeflyboy View Post
    In my setup it's just acting as the computer that interfaces with the ramps board through USB.
    I use a similar setup on my Hictop 3DP-12 (Prusa clone with aluminium extrusion frame) - it has a great benefit of being able to run the Pi with Octoprint remotely across my LAN and I use a Pi camera, which is integrated to keep an eye on the print whilst its doing it. So that's PC in office with web browser interface---->Pi with Octoprint---->Ramps based control board from Hictop running Marlin firmware----->3DPrinter.

    I've just finished upgrading the printer this weekend with a filament sensor, although I struggled with using the firmware's M600 filament change routine, which kept timing out Octoprint, so rolled my own GCode to emulate it without the timeout issues.

  3. #63
    In my setup it's just acting as the computer that interfaces with the ramps board through USB.
    are you using the standard Ramps or the 32 bit Radds board?

    >Pi with Octoprint---->Ramps based control board from Hictop running Marlin firmware----->3DPrinter.
    have you got any wiring diagrams for that set up?

  4. #64
    Washout's Avatar
    Lives in Bewdley, Worcs, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 10 Hours Ago Has been a member for 6-7 years. Has a total post count of 432. Received thanks 31 times, giving thanks to others 78 times. Made a monetary donation to the upkeep of the community.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ross77 View Post
    are you using the standard Ramps or the 32 bit Radds board?



    have you got any wiring diagrams for that set up?
    Not as such - as with Zeeflyboy the Pi is connected to the Ramps board via a short USB cable and the Ramp board uses 4 wire stepper wiring, which is likely the same as you would use for a CNC router.

    The board is shown here (scroll down a bit for the schematic): https://www.hic3dprinter.com/collect...e-mother-board

    I mounted my Pi onto the printer by using a 3D printed case (shameless channel plug) and I have my property flood wired for CAT5e so it just becomes another device on it accessible from any PC/tablet etc. with a browser:


  5. #65
    Wow, i would never do that My printer prints non stop and why i would need to spend time watching its whats its doing, as if all is setup right it works flawlessly. last time i had a crash was when filament went from 1.75 to 2.5 at almost end of bobin...
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  6. #66
    Quote Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski View Post
    Wow, i would never do that My printer prints non stop and why i would need to spend time watching its whats its doing, as if all is setup right it works flawlessly. last time i had a crash was when filament went from 1.75 to 2.5 at almost end of bobin...
    What materials do you normally print with? I've had trouble with larger parts and ABS lifting up at the corners, anything that's over 6cm tall has caused me problems in the end I have to encase the printer to get it to print larger parts (I do this with a cardboard box lol) but when my router works going to build this enclosure to add to my printer because it looks nice lol.

    https://youtu.be/wt7bQXyLSL4

    Never had an issue with PLA found it very easy to print if you have a fan blowing over the part correctly obviously I don't use the fan with ABS because it shrinks one of it's design features (So it drops out the injection molds easier).
    http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/10880...60cm-work-area My first CNC build WIP 120cm*80cm

    If you didn't buy it from China the company you bought it from did ;)

  7. #67
    Not as such - as with Zeeflyboy the Pi is connected to the Ramps board via a short USB cable and the Ramp board uses 4 wire stepper wiring, which is likely the same as you would use for a CNC router.

    The board is shown here (scroll down a bit for the schematic): https://www.hic3dprinter.com/collect...e-mother-board
    Ah that makes sense now. The ramps I was looking at didn't have usb, only a shield for the Aurduino.

    More options to look for now, thanks

  8. #68
    Washout's Avatar
    Lives in Bewdley, Worcs, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 10 Hours Ago Has been a member for 6-7 years. Has a total post count of 432. Received thanks 31 times, giving thanks to others 78 times. Made a monetary donation to the upkeep of the community.
    Quote Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski View Post
    Wow, i would never do that My printer prints non stop and why i would need to spend time watching its whats its doing, as if all is setup right it works flawlessly. last time i had a crash was when filament went from 1.75 to 2.5 at almost end of bobin...
    Well I record the timelapse for one reason. The other is my printer is at the other end of my property and occasionally the "filament out" sensor trips out when it shouldn't. I can glance up at one of the bank of monitors in my office and tell what's up and decide whether to make the trek down there or just hit the resume button. I would have thought anyone with an interest in CNC would have also been interested in maximising automation?

  9. #69
    Quote Originally Posted by Desertboy View Post
    What materials do you normally print with? I've had trouble with larger parts and ABS lifting up at the corners, anything that's over 6cm tall has caused me problems in the end I have to encase the printer to get it to print larger parts (I do this with a cardboard box lol) but when my router works going to build this enclosure to add to my printer because it looks nice lol.

    https://youtu.be/wt7bQXyLSL4

    Never had an issue with PLA found it very easy to print if you have a fan blowing over the part correctly obviously I don't use the fan with ABS because it shrinks one of it's design features (So it drops out the injection molds easier).
    I print ABS in an enclosure, rafts and supports always. Plus some extra coins that help against lifting. PLA same. Nowadays i use mainly PETG for functional parts/ up to 70C/ .

    Whatever they tell you each one of the materials lifts, shrinks and so on. I print the dust shoe from my signature and there is not even one material that it will print ok due to the specific shape, if i did not knew how to counter effect that. All else is marketing.
    See example below of the coins, how i situate them, or all hacks up...

    3d printing makes a lot of sense after the CNC and once you understand what is happening and solve the common beginner problems, its easy to become an expert when you are using your brain and figuring stuff. But on Facegroup groups and so i was tired of repeating the steps to understand all, nobody cared. So i dont visit them now.


    Click image for larger version. 

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    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

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  11. #70
    Quote Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski View Post
    Whatever they tell you each one of the materials lifts, shrinks and so on. I print the dust shoe from my signature and there is not even one material that it will print ok due to the specific shape, if i did not knew how to counter effect that. All else is marketing.
    XT-CF20 and Carbonfil (I can't tell much difference between the two in how they print or the end results) are the only materials I've ever used that literally just don't seem to suffer from any warping even on very large parts... very dimensionally stable stuff, excellent overhang ability and very strong layer adhesion.

    Easy enough to print with, but you have to used hardened steel nozzles as they destroy brass or even normal steel ones very quickly. I also had a problem with it sticking to the nozzle and building up until finally a big blob gets stuck on the part and potentially ruins the entire print... I never managed to get rid of that entirely and prints would need frequent babysitting with a pair of needle nose tweezers to de-blob the extruder nozzle, a massive pain in the arse. I intended to experiment with a nozzle wipe action on each layer change at some point using a silicon wiper to see if it could address the babysitting issue, but haven't got around to it yet to see if it works.

    Due to that I've switched over mainly now to Edge for most stuff, doesn't hurt that it's cheaper too. It is a lot better than ABS in regards to warping, but not as good as the two I mention above.

    I also use a print-bite bed and that stuff is bloody brilliant. I've printed ABS, PLA, Edge (a PET type plastic iirc), XT-CF20, Carbonfil and ninjaflex on it. Stuff sticks very well when heated and releases easily enough when it's cooled a bit... no more messing around with tape/slurry/spray etc. That is one of the best things I've ever bought for the printer.
    Last edited by Zeeflyboy; 31-07-2017 at 10:13 PM.

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