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  1. #101
    Quote Originally Posted by AlexDoran View Post
    Haha don't say that and jinx me :D - Do you mean so that they would be similar to how I have done the Y Axis ones?

    Attachment 23009

    Thanks

    Alex
    Exactly. You have the switches ready to get squashed
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  2. #102
    Quote Originally Posted by Clive S View Post
    Exactly. You have the switches ready to get squashed
    Thanks, i will try and re-work those, at the moment those positions were the simplest and gave the maximum Axis Travel.

    Thanks

    Alex

  3. #103
    Great build!
    Fast going and looking good.
    I know nothing about the strength of 3d printed parts but are they strong enough to hold the bearings on your long axis?

    The printed parts that hold the bk/bf bearings are also subject to big loads... but as I said.. they might be up for it? ;)

    Skickat från min SM-N910C via Tapatalk

  4. #104
    Quote Originally Posted by Nr1madman View Post
    Great build!
    Fast going and looking good.
    I know nothing about the strength of 3d printed parts but are they strong enough to hold the bearings on your long axis?

    The printed parts that hold the bk/bf bearings are also subject to big loads... but as I said.. they might be up for it? ;)

    Skickat från min SM-N910C via Tapatalk
    Hi there,

    Thanks! I am only using 3D Printed Parts to dry assemble the machine. Once i am happy with how everything fits they will be replaced with aluminium :)

    Thanks

    Alex

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  6. #105
    Quote Originally Posted by AlexDoran View Post
    Hi there,

    Thanks! I am only using 3D Printed Parts to dry assemble the machine. Once i am happy with how everything fits they will be replaced with aluminium :)

    Thanks

    Alex
    Now I'm truly envious!
    What an fantastic way to build...

    Skickat från min SM-N910C via Tapatalk

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  8. #106
    Quote Originally Posted by Nr1madman View Post
    Now I'm truly envious!
    What an fantastic way to build...

    Skickat från min SM-N910C via Tapatalk
    The 3D Printed Parts are only 25% Solid, even so they are fairly tough and rigid - i'm sure you could print them much stronger than they already are (Increase the Wall Thickness and Infil % ). However it will never offer what Aluminium will. Great and very cheap / fast way to prototype!

    Alex

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  10. #107
    So i pretty much finished the wiring, and ran the coolant lines for the spindle, tried to semi tidy the cables & pipes.

    I started working on getting the Limit / Home switches working but i have been an idiot and bought the wrong type of probes, the DDCSV expects a 12v signal from the probe, but mine are NPN and not PNP so i am pretty sure these are not going to work directly with the controller, bit of a pain considering i already soldered them to the longer cables etc, now i need to try and source some PNP variants that are the same size, and dont cost £40 each.

    I also wired the VFD to the controller, however when i try to run the spindle, the display on the VFD changes but nothing actually on the spindle, not sure if i have it configured properly, followed a youtube video, but also read a DIY guide that had conflicting information about some of the Hertz values, also i am trying to signal VFD from the DDCSV using the 10v pwm signal, i had the control parameters (PD001 & PD002) on the VFD set to 1 but i think this needs to be 2.

    Any advice or help on any of these points would be greatly appreciated.






    Alex
    Last edited by AlexDoran; 20-10-2017 at 10:53 AM.

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  12. #108
    By pure luck i have managed to find some rather nice (and expensive Balluff Brand) Proximity Sensors in my brothers shed (He is the maintenance guy at work), he only had 4, which is ok as it means i am able to the machine homed, and perform some more tests, and actually - im not sure that i even to have Max Limit Switches? There is a Software Travel Limit that is defined and seems to work very well, im not sure if these get ignored when running a program so i will have to check that out.

    However now i can only seem to get the Z Axis to move in one direction, i was thinking that it must be a loose / funny connection somewhere since i had been tidying all of the wiring up. However if there was a problem with the wiring would the Stepper even move in one direction at all?

    I was also curious as to how the Axis should be orientated, currently the X (my longest Axis) and the Y both home to minimum - Position 0, and then move positively through the co-ordinates- for example 0 -> 1010mm. However i know that our big machines move negatively, eg: 0mm -> -3000. Is there a standard way of setting this out? What are the implications, do they just affect how you need to setup any post processing configuration from SolidCAM, Fusion etc?

    Im also curious about how the Z Axis is orientated too, when moving positively it travels upwards - the homing is set to minimum but when homing it searches upwards. Possibly this is because of the problems i am having with the Axis.

    Thanks

    Alex

  13. Quote Originally Posted by AlexDoran View Post
    So i adjusted some of the components of the Z Axis to hopefully improve how rigid it is, previously that blocks that connect the Spindle Mount to the Linear Carriages were shorter than the Spindle Mount, in order to try and maximise Axis Travel, however in reality this meant that the spindle could reach well below the bed even without a tool in the collet, so i decided to make the Connection Blocks longer and increase the spacing of the Carriages.


    Attachment 22883

    I started looking today about how i need to properly Ground the Spindle at the VFD side, whilst looking for information i came accross a forum post on CNCZone that said many of the Chinese spindles do not have their Ground pins connected to anything inside the Spindle, so i decided to take the top off and have a look - and not much of a surprise as the Ground pin was not connected to anything. Where can i connect this to? Should i just drill and tap a hole so that a connector can be screwed to the casing and soldered the correct pin?

    Attachment 22884

    I've also been scouring the net today trying to find some nice proximity sensors to be used as limit switches, i think the DDSCV1.1 can use 12v limit switches? Could be wrong any advice would be appreciated.

    Also waiting for the Cable Drags and breakout boards to arrive so i can design some brackets and a portable enclosure for the controller.

    Also been searching for the correct resin to fill the extrusions with, anyone have any personal experience / recommendations?

    Thanks

    Alex
    Nice one both you and Clive tested my spindle today with an ammeter and it's obviously pin 4 is not connected to anything ;)

    Will do as Clive suggested, were the top bolts hard to undo? I tried and felt some resistance like I have some loctite to break didn't want to push it until I asked had a nightmare rounding off A2's next time I build I will only use A2's were needed and stick to proper bolts if appropriate.
    http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/10880...60cm-work-area My first CNC build WIP 120cm*80cm

    If you didn't buy it from China the company you bought it from did ;)

  14. #110
    Im also curious about how the Z Axis is orientated too, when moving positively it travels upwards - the homing is set to minimum but when homing it searches upwards. Possibly this is because of the problems i am having with the Axis.

    Thanks
    It is usual to have the Z showing -ve going down so +ve and home would be at the top. The other two are personal choice.

    Re the Z only moving in one direction check the (dir) on the driver and make sure it is changing sense ie 5v and 0v
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

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