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  1. #51
    Nice :D

    Really looking forwards to seeing your results with leaning sides..

    Surface looks good right now!

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  3. #52
    Quote Originally Posted by Nr1madman View Post
    Nice :D

    Really looking forwards to seeing your results with leaning sides..

    Surface looks good right now!

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    oh wow...





    Just removed the sides.. the suggestion i read on this forum (Joe H) using a simple packing tape on the sides worked out great. Easy removal of siding and great finish.

    Lessons learned:

    -My type of epoxy was not delamination proof under 5mm thickness.
    Any thickness over 5mm would chip instead of easy peal off.
    - Use taped sides, simple packing tape will prevent epoxy binding to sides and will give you great finsh.
    - use small kit seam for leak proofing on inside of the sides to steal beam.
    - used rich kit seam on the outside.
    - use low height sides (20mm above steel is ok) for easy kit application.
    - Use extra bracing in tipical H setup bridge.
    - check for obvious leaks before pouring.
    - acryl kit can stop epoxy leaks on the outside of the siding.
    - coat all kit seams with epoxy with a brush to seal up any leaks days before a pour.

    - Inward leaning sides have meniscus too.
    - not much worse but worse. maybe 7mm instead of 5mm
    - Having stable temperature does positively influence surface finish.


    ok i have to clean up sides of x axis remove meniscus then i can flip gantry and do the last pour.


    Guys, thanx for all the great info accumulated on this forum. I could never have figured out all this stuff by my self.


    Grtz..

    Bert.

    Last edited by driftspin; 09-01-2018 at 12:16 AM.

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  5. #53
    Good work :D

    Thanks for the reporting, many points made that can help others!

    Im a bit envious about the side finish.. packingtape seems like the way to go;)

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  6. #54
    Quote Originally Posted by Nr1madman View Post
    Good work :D

    Thanks for the reporting, many points made that can help others!

    Im a bit envious about the side finish.. packingtape seems like the way to go;)

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    Dont envy me. :-)

    I only showed the best of the results.

    I will finish clean up and do some more pictures later.

    All in all i am happy with the results.

    MK II will be a hole in one


    the acrylkit solution has a downside.

    It weakens +/- 3 mm of the sides..
    Ill draw up something to explain.


    So when i want just epoxy on the sides i need to scrape some 3mm off.
    this eliminated meniscus in the process.
    And the nice and easy side finish is gone.

    Use least possible kit seam.
    On the pouring side of the siding that is.
    Use rich kit seams on the outside.

    Ok both my x axis are 1850mm long, the epoxy varies in thickness from 7mm one end, to 3 mm half way , other end 6mm

    Equals 3.5 mm of warp by welding only.
    I did not expect that.

    1mm out of level by spirit level over 1850mm.. equals 0.5mm / meter error in spirit level... right on spec for expected spirit levelling accuracy.

    ok.. looks like i have about 1830mm of flat surface for rail.. need to update BOM list spec for Fred.

    Did any of you cut linear rail by angle grinder?




    Grtz Bert.








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  7. #55
    I cut down one rail about 20mm.. read first to use a thin cut disc and I didn't have any thin discs at home so I used a dremel kind of tool with 50x1mm disc. Went well :)

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  9. #56
    Quote Originally Posted by driftspin View Post
    Dont envy me. :-)

    I only showed the best of the results.

    I will finish clean up and do some more pictures later.

    All in all i am happy with the results.

    MK II will be a hole in one


    the acrylkit solution has a downside.

    It weakens +/- 3 mm of the sides..
    Ill draw up something to explain.


    So when i want just epoxy on the sides i need to scrape some 3mm off.
    this eliminated meniscus in the process.
    And the nice and easy side finish is gone.

    Use least possible kit seam.
    On the pouring side of the siding that is.
    Use rich kit seams on the outside.

    Ok both my x axis are 1850mm long, the epoxy varies in thickness from 7mm one end, to 3 mm half way , other end 6mm

    Equals 3.5 mm of warp by welding only.
    I did not expect that.

    1mm out of level by spirit level over 1850mm.. equals 0.5mm / meter error in spirit level... right on spec for expected spirit levelling accuracy.

    ok.. looks like i have about 1830mm of flat surface for rail.. need to update BOM list spec for Fred.

    Did any of you cut linear rail by angle grinder?




    Grtz Bert.








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    last pour,

    Ok lets try to get it perfect this time.

    Bert.


    Update...



    last pour is done... in 48 hrs the side come off...


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    Last edited by driftspin; 25-11-2017 at 09:15 PM.

  10. #57
    Quote Originally Posted by driftspin View Post
    last pour,

    Ok lets try to get it perfect this time.

    Bert.


    Update...



    last pour is done... in 48 hrs the side come off...


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    Last pour results



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  11. #58
    Looks good ;)

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  13. #59
    Quote Originally Posted by Nr1madman View Post
    Looks good ;)

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    Yes super happy with it.
    Need to do some mesurements to check for obvious F ups ...

    Only have some old analogue calipers ...

    Need to start buying some quality measurement tools help with aligning the rails.

    And i am hoping piano wire can help with aligning...

    I have some quality 140cm 8040 profile that can be used with straightening stuff.

    Bouyan said one needs a 1000mm straight edge and machinist squares..
    He is right i think...

    Need to start figuring this out.


    So...
    I am about to order linear bearing parts.

    Final BOM :

    Rail**
    2pcs*HIWIN*HGR20-L1830mm*Linear*rail
    2pcs*HIWIN*HGR20-L1000mm*Linear*rail
    2pcs*HIWIN*HGR20-L500mm*Linear*rail
    8pcs*HIWIN*HGH20CA*Linear*carriage
    4pcs*HIWIN*HGW20CC*Linear*carriage


    Ballscrews*rolled*C7.
    End*machining*fixed*float*for*a*pulley's

    1set*C7*RM1605-L350mm*Ball*screw*with*ballnut
    Change*Length*F*to*30mm*

    1set*C7*RM1610-L1150mm*Ball*screw*with*ballnut
    Change*Length*F*to*30mm*

    2*sets*C7*RM2010-L1700mm*Ball*screw*with*ballnut
    Change*Length*F*to*30mm*

    2pcs*1610*Ballnut*Housing

    2pcs*2010*Ballnut*Housing

    4pcs ballnut grease nipples

    2*sets*superior type*bk*bf12*1610

    2sets*superior type*bk*bf15*2010


    Any thoughts?


    Grtz. Bert










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    Last edited by driftspin; 30-11-2017 at 10:55 PM.

  14. #60
    You are planning well ;)

    As you have read the straight edge will simplify your life and keep your hair from being grey :D

    I did it the sloppy way!
    Read about someone who placed the linear rails beside each other and checked for gaps.. if there are none you can flip one and if they still are without gaps they are straight..
    I was lucky and had two straight rails that I could align the first long rail with. Could not get a feeling blade inserted anywere on the whole length of the rail.
    For the matching rail I mounted the gantry and slid back and forwards, drilling and tapping one hole at a time as close to the gantry as possible.
    For the gantry rails I took a steel ruler that I checked against my master straight rail..

    Straight edge and square is better I think ;)

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