. .
Page 5 of 21 FirstFirst ... 3456715 ... LastLast
  1. #41
    Hello!

    How wide is the epoxy supposed to be?
    Do you know that the sides tend to get raised, usually called meniscus?
    I don't know if having the sides angled like that will lessen or make the meniscus worse..
    Maybe you know something that we others don't and your solution solves the problem?

    Skickat från min SM-N910C via Tapatalk

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to Nr1madman For This Useful Post:


  3. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by Nr1madman View Post
    Hello!

    How wide is the epoxy supposed to be?
    Do you know that the sides tend to get raised, usually called meniscus?
    I don't know if having the sides angled like that will lessen or make the meniscus worse..
    Maybe you know something that we others don't and your solution solves the problem?

    Skickat från min SM-N910C via Tapatalk
    Hi Nr1madman....

    More knowledge? No.


    The witdh of the profile is about 80 mm.
    The witdh at 5 mm epoxy thickness should be about 70mm, plenty of room for some meniscus and enough flat surface left for mounting the rail.


    I want to see what te result will be on the bottom of the gantry x mounting surface.


    I might decide i want the wide type carriages on x because there is space enough for them there.. miniscus might become a problem there..

    Any thoughts?

    Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk

  4. #43
    I'm sure you are right about having enough room left. Just concerned that the inwards angled sides will create larger miniscus. It might work the other way also :D

    I have been known to be wrong! ;)

    Skickat från min SM-N910C via Tapatalk

  5. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by Nr1madman View Post
    I'm sure you are right about having enough room left. Just concerned that the inwards angled sides will create larger miniscus. It might work the other way also :D

    I have been known to be wrong! ;)

    Skickat från min SM-N910C via Tapatalk
    Nr1madman.. Ha yes about being wrong... been there done that



    I think you might be right about minicus getting worse when walls lean inward...


    Will report on this...


    I can still change stuff...
    you know what i will.


    On the x carriage mounting surface.. this is the spot where extra room is needed...

    Grtz..

    Bert



    Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk

  6. #45
    Quote Originally Posted by driftspin View Post
    Nr1madman.. Ha yes about being wrong... been there done that



    I think you might be right about minicus getting worse when walls lean inward...


    Will report on this...


    I can still change stuff...
    you know what i will.


    On the x carriage mounting surface.. this is the spot where extra room is needed...

    Grtz..

    Bert



    Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk
    If the meniscus should interfere with wide bearings then it's very easy to file the meniscus down. Im just worried that there will be much waste as the epoxy is quite expensive :D

    Skickat från min SM-N910C via Tapatalk

  7. #46
    Quote Originally Posted by Nr1madman View Post
    If the meniscus should interfere with wide bearings then it's very easy to file the meniscus down. Im just worried that there will be much waste as the epoxy is quite expensive :D

    Skickat från min SM-N910C via Tapatalk
    yes its expensive... some 75 euros for +/- 3kg.. its cheapest i could find with good properties and tropical hardner...

    need to put a heater in the shop because of this now

    grtz Bert

    Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk
    Last edited by driftspin; 01-11-2017 at 10:24 PM.

  8. #47
    Ok 1st pouring round.

    I prepped 0.5 kg of epoxy.

    Mix is 135 vs 365 expoy.


    And yes.. in the first round i found out epoxy leaks through everywhere.


    Goodthing.. acryl kit can stop epoxy leaks .


    I made good use of the leaked epoxy by coating all surfaces of the next round... with a bit of luck i will have no problems there...

    The 2nd round will be some 2.0 kg.

    last round 0.4 kg.



    I have made a decision on the Linear parts bom list today... i will order wide carriages for the x axis.


    Fred: i will be ordering soon :-)

    Hope to have the parts this year.

    Lots of new things to think about!

    Do you guys have any clue for how long i need to keep the temperature @20+ C for curing epoxy evenly?


    Maybe 4 days or so?

    Grtz

    Bert.

    Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk

  9. #48
    Hmm do you think doing a small pour last will help making it level? I think bigger mass in the pour may help make it flow even.. I would do the 2kg pour last ;)

    But you might be right, just an observation!

    The curing time will depend on the epoxy used and thickness of the pour.. I was scared so I waited 10 days haha

    Skickat från min SM-N910C via Tapatalk

  10. The Following User Says Thank You to Nr1madman For This Useful Post:


  11. #49
    Quote Originally Posted by Nr1madman View Post
    Hmm do you think doing a small pour last will help making it level? I think bigger mass in the pour may help make it flow even.. I would do the 2kg pour last ;)

    But you might be right, just an observation!

    The curing time will depend on the epoxy used and thickness of the pour.. I was scared so I waited 10 days haha

    Skickat från min SM-N910C via Tapatalk
    Well actually... i just poured the x- rail mounting sufaces 2x 320mmx80mm x5mm + the connecting bridge 1000mmx40mmx5mm

    Total about 0.5 liters ~ 0.5kg

    I have just checked.. temperature is steady at 22 deg C. Epoxy is only just starting to get solid... it is just getting real sticky now. 16hrs after pour.

    The leaking epoxy was used the coat the kit seams for the big pour: bottom rail Y surface+ 2x rail x surface and bridge.

    i used a small paintbrush to soak the seams and connections

    about 5mx80mmx5mm of channel to fill and a 1mx40x5mm to fill.

    The flow thickness of epoxy when you just start the pour is about 3 or 4 mm thick.
    So yes i agree pour the whole thickness in 1 go.


    I have a good feeling about keeping the temperature steady.

    In the test pour there was orange skin like surface finish... no sign of that , well not jet.


    The big pour i did today : shiny surfaces.

    I mixed 1kg first.. then another 0.5kg.

    looks like after allowing the epoxy to flow for a few hours i can see the frame straightness is good to within 2mm

    Epoxy film thickness varies from +/- 6 to 4 mm

    ... some leaks not to bad... easy fix.


    Now i need to wait a week before i can flip the gantry, clean up, and pour the last surface top y axis rail mounting surface.


    Grtz.

    Bert.


    Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk
    Last edited by driftspin; 12-11-2017 at 10:40 PM.

  12. #50
    Nice to see that epoxy level goes well,carry on!

Page 5 of 21 FirstFirst ... 3456715 ... LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 2 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 2 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. BUILD LOG: First time build - Steel Frame CNC Router
    By examorph in forum DIY Router Build Logs
    Replies: 144
    Last Post: 19-10-2023, 06:25 PM
  2. BUILD LOG: First Build 5 x 12 Steel Frame CNC router
    By Scott Damman in forum DIY Router Build Logs
    Replies: 104
    Last Post: 18-01-2017, 06:36 PM
  3. BUILD LOG: Steel frame cnc router design/build
    By CraftyGeek in forum DIY Router Build Logs
    Replies: 110
    Last Post: 06-05-2015, 10:00 PM
  4. 600x900 Steel welded router build
    By embraced in forum Gantry/Router Machines & Building
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 08-10-2014, 10:55 PM
  5. BUILD LOG: First steel diy CNC router build
    By ivars211 in forum DIY Router Build Logs
    Replies: 59
    Last Post: 28-07-2014, 08:29 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •