Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
  1. #21
    What are you using for a heater?

    I would think something like this would be good http://www.thermosensedirect.com/aca...iABEgLg2PD_BwE

    I'm also thinking a bucket in a bucket, the outer container galvanised steel the inner one plastic. Water is the outer container with heater it the bucket and the inner plastic bucket sat on bricks inside the outer container. You control the temperature in the outer bucket the water acts like a heat sink and evens out the temperature spikes. You would have to leave a water pump circulating the warm water 50-60c you could use a hot water pump from a caravan cheap as chips.

    Why Galvanised? Because it conducts heat better without the danger of melting, stainless steel is a crap conductor and expensive. I would worry the heater I linked to could melt the plastic if the conduction rate is too slow. If you used an arduino and PWM this would be a non issue and you could use plastic all round, think of it as a heated bed on a 3d printer.

    No reason you couldn't use am immersion heater element if you did a bucket in a bucket setup.
    Last edited by Desertboy; 04-10-2017 at 05:26 AM.

  2. #22
    Thinking of using a 10 1000w hotplate http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202025024429
    I actually already ordered these for some reason xD

    So that plus a 5L stainless pot http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/c...-art-80129725/

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by JOGARA View Post
    Thinking of using a 10 1000w hotplate http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202025024429
    I actually already ordered these for some reason xD

    So that plus a 5L stainless pot http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/c...-art-80129725/
    That would work fine, stainless is fine I bought a stainless steel still from America may years ago that I have never used and never will probably lol but I love because it's work of art.

    Stainless is a poor conductor but when you have 1kw hot plate that's not really at issue lol.

  4. #24
    I'm also thinking a bucket in a bucket,
    Do you not think the inner bucket would float like a ship
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  5. #25
    I thought the solution was mostly acid, sulphuric has an SG of 1.85! It's 85% heavier!

    But is floating even an issue? and I'm sure a clamp can by rigged up rather quickly if this was an issue.

  6. #26
    The acid baths are not heated so no need to bucket within a bucket to heat?

  7. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Desertboy View Post
    I thought the solution was mostly acid, sulphuric has an SG of 1.85! It's 85% heavier!

    But is floating even an issue? and I'm sure a clamp can by rigged up rather quickly if this was an issue.
    Not that it changes your point, but most definitely not "mostly" sulphuric acid... in fact it's pretty dilute using the LCD process. Somewhere around 1 part acid to 15 parts water by volume for 6 asf.

  8. #28
    Not sure what I am doing wrong...

    But the dye is not sticking, and from the looks of it not absorbing into the part much if at all.



    When I spray with water it just all falls off.



    I know black can he hard to work with as the ink bits are quite large.
    Not sure what to do...


    Here is a part that is not been tumbled. It has been through the system before the dye bath.
    As you can see, I hope, it does look like it is anodizing. This part was shiny on the flats before starting the process.
    Last edited by JOGARA; 12-10-2017 at 06:18 PM.

  9. #29
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 3 Hours Ago Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 1,840. Received thanks 192 times, giving thanks to others 5 times.
    Is the part actually being anodised?
    Enough current flowing for the duration, with a good contact to the work piece?
    Using a grade of aluminium that can be anodised?
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

  10. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by m_c View Post
    Is the part actually being anodised?
    Enough current flowing for the duration, with a good contact to the work piece?
    Using a grade of aluminium that can be anodised?
    I believe so.
    Using eco cast from aluminium warehouse

Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Yet Another Noob. Looking for Kit or Guide
    By RatherBeMaking in forum Gantry/Router Machines & Building
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 09-04-2015, 09:52 AM
  2. Idiot's guide to Dolphin?
    By m_c in forum Dolphin
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 18-12-2013, 02:42 PM
  3. DIY CNC Safety Guide
    By tati in forum Gantry/Router Machines & Building
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 12-08-2013, 12:02 PM
  4. First Experiments Anodizing Aluminium at Home
    By h4ppy-chris in forum Metal Finishing Techniques
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 13-02-2011, 01:10 PM
  5. SMD-How to guide?
    By Ross77 in forum General Electronics
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 17-08-2009, 06:43 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •