. .
Page 2 of 8 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by AndyGuid View Post
    Being a skin-flint I'm very curious how successful different cheaper epoxies are at self-levelling, so please report back when done.

    Had a look on the web and wonder whether you've gone for just the Slow-Hardener or the Extra-Slow-Epoxy-Hardener which seems to me to be closer to the West system that the successful pours on this forum have used?

    5:1 Slow Hardener ~ http://www.totalboat.com/product/51-slow-hardener/
    • Excellent thin-film characteristics provide smooth flow-out and self-levelling ideal for coating and laminating
    • Pot life @ 75°F: 20 minutes
    • Set time @ 75°F (thin film): 10 hours
    • Cure time @ 75°F (thin film): 1-4 days

    Tropical Extra Slow Epoxy Hardener ~ http://www.totalboat.com/product/tropical-hardener/
    • Excellent thin-film characteristics provide smooth flow-out and self-levelling ideal for coating and laminating
    • Pot life @75°F: 46 minutes
    • Set time at @75°F: 20-24 hours
    • Cure time at @75°F: 4-7 days
    I went with just the slow - not extra-slow. It will likely be in the 65F temp range here when I pour...

  2. #12
    Well, I have it about ready to pour epoxy:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2472.jpg 
Views:	185 
Size:	347.8 KB 
ID:	23021Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2473.jpg 
Views:	176 
Size:	360.4 KB 
ID:	23022

    Can't figure out why my pics are upside down now...
    Last edited by wallyblackburn; 12-10-2017 at 09:08 PM.

  3. #13
    Brushed a thin coat on to seal joints, seams, etc:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2474.jpg 
Views:	153 
Size:	279.3 KB 
ID:	23029
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2475.jpg 
Views:	147 
Size:	279.4 KB 
ID:	23030

    Still trying to get pics right-side-up. I think it has something to do with iOS 11
    Last edited by wallyblackburn; 13-10-2017 at 02:57 PM.

  4. #14
    Read over more epoxy-related posts before pouring and came across the one by Boyan Sylvaski discussing shrinkage of centered bridge causing distortion in the middles of the rails! Well, I wasn't tearing it down and starting over. So, I did the pour, gave it time to flow out, and then blocked the bridge entrances with razor blades:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2476.jpg 
Views:	174 
Size:	288.6 KB 
ID:	23037 Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2477.jpg 
Views:	165 
Size:	268.1 KB 
ID:	23038

    Used a heat gun multiple times to get rid of bubbles. I was surprised at how well that worked. You could see the bubbles pop and disappear as you waved the heat gun over. Top looks like glass at this point.


  5. #15
    Pulled forms off today. Not sure if this was because I used the Totalboat epoxy, but I was surprised at the size of the meniscus. I have one side pretty much cleaned up, but I'm guessing I had to file in maybe 5mm from the edge to get rid of it. Does this sound like what most of you see? Nothing to base this on, but I expected it to be a narrow and steep meniscus. I'll try to get a pic of the other side before cleanup.

    Linear rails supposed to arrive from China this Friday...
    Last edited by wallyblackburn; 18-10-2017 at 05:57 PM.

  6. #16
    I've not done epoxy before but your query may be answered in this excellent epoxy thread :

    IIRC others have suggested pouring epoxy 40mm wide for 20mm rails to allow for a miniscus of about 5mm and then some.
    Last edited by AndyGuid; 19-10-2017 at 11:49 AM.

  7. #17
    Wow.. fast progress! I had my moat on for 8-10 days for guaranteed cure..
    But you didn't have the super slow stuff?

    I used reactive resins and had about 4-5mm meniscus.

    Skickat från min SM-N910C via Tapatalk

  8. #18
    Or maybe I just rushed it :(

    It seems super hard though. I used the slow - not extra slow. Sounds like the meniscus on mine was about right then. Still amazes me how this works. I could not get the frame level in all directions due to an apparent twist. But no matter which way I put this level, all I see is:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2502.jpg 
Views:	143 
Size:	177.3 KB 
ID:	23082

    Granted, that is just a (high quality) carpenter's level, but still pretty cool.


  9. #19
    Yeah I know :D
    I was amazed with the glassmooth level surface..
    Awsome stuff for DIY applications.
    I was a bit stupid as I built my moat out of masonite and the epoxy merged with it. Proper hell to clean :)
    Did the tape you used come of easy?

    Skickat från min SM-N910C via Tapatalk

  10. #20
    No, it was also proper hell also! I'll use packing tape backwards next time as Clive and others suggest...

Page 2 of 8 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. "Hacking" and "Modding"
    By magicniner in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 07-01-2015, 07:59 PM
  2. Cnc router wood "roughing bits" anyone used these before?
    By gavztheouch in forum Motor Drivers & Controllers
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 27-04-2014, 09:11 PM
  3. BUILD LOG: Vertical fixed gantry. Design & build. (Steel/epoxy)
    By Greeny in forum DIY Router Build Logs
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 19-08-2013, 07:26 PM
  4. "Racks" VS "ball screw"
    By C.AlveSilva in forum Linear & Rotary Motion
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 17-04-2012, 10:53 PM
  5. BUILD LOG: Planning and build of my "8020" aluminium CNC Router
    By monza in forum DIY Router Build Logs
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 06-02-2010, 10:55 PM


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts