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  1. #51
    Thanks guy's. i already had in mind to get plenty of clamps, a large spirit level and large straight square edges so i'm glad i was on the right track.

  2. #52
    Quote Originally Posted by reefy86 View Post
    was ordering the steel from metals4u.co.uk cut to size, i forgot to ask that question as well so thanks for that boyan, I do not have access to a welding table and i do want to try and keep the cost down so what would you recommend welding the frame on? i was thinking of doing a cheap wooden frame and make sure its level and use a sheet of mdf on top for flatness
    Reefy, have you tried Nottingham Steel at Colwick, they will cut to size and they are probably cheaper !
    Weld UK at Pinxton have got some heavy duty clamps at 60. I called in in person for one and asked how much they could do two for cash and it was a good discount !
    https://www.welduk.com/product/sip-0...rs-angle-clamp
    Last edited by cropwell; 08-12-2017 at 01:20 AM.
    Albert Einstein may have been a genius, but his brother Frank, was a monster

    Having just moved to Windows 10 (which is crap) My stress levels are through the roof !!!

  3. #53
    No not tried them mate, i will give them a call tomorrow so thanks for that

  4. #54
    Do not try to make all like 2000mm, for example. make it 2003mm but parallel and square. Hence you don't need the pieces to be super precisely cut. You will definitely need a box of washers though, to fill the cracks. Remember that your final epoxy cast below rails will be 40mm wide, and rails are 20mm wide. The ???what was the name of it, the epoxy that lifted to the sides due to attraction will be 3-4mm each side, so basically you will be able to position the rails within that margin of the rest 10mm. hence do the gantry when you have finished and measured your final base frame, not at the same time.

    And as you have been told, not bigger stitches than 2 inch at a time and place, and no higher overall temp of the beam than 60C. When you reach that temp, leave to cool before continue.

    You will be tempted to hurry, but take your time and do it properly, you are not welding a typical welders job. I would go as far as to say that i will not trust a normal welder to do that job, as the moment i turn my back he will make 2 meter stitch

    PS. best is to use hard stop ruler or a contraption to make all exact same distance
    Last edited by Boyan Silyavski; 08-12-2017 at 01:44 AM.
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  5. #55
    Quote Originally Posted by cropwell View Post
    Reefy, have you tried Nottingham Steel at Colwick, they will cut to size and they are probably cheaper !
    Weld UK at Pinxton have got some heavy duty clamps at 60. I called in in person for one and asked how much they could do two for cash and it was a good discount !
    https://www.welduk.com/product/sip-0...rs-angle-clamp
    Bloody hell i gave them a call and they are almost half cheaper and they are right next to me so that's a bonus. cheers again mate

  6. #56
    Quote Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski View Post
    Do not try to make all like 2000mm, for example. make it 2003mm but parallel and square. Hence you don't need the pieces to be super precisely cut. You will definitely need a box of washers though, to fill the cracks. Remember that your final epoxy cast below rails will be 40mm wide, and rails are 20mm wide. The ???what was the name of it, the epoxy that lifted to the sides due to attraction will be 3-4mm each side, so basically you will be able to position the rails within that margin of the rest 10mm. hence do the gantry when you have finished and measured your final base frame, not at the same time.

    And as you have been told, not bigger stitches than 2 inch at a time and place, and no higher overall temp of the beam than 60C. When you reach that temp, leave to cool before continue.

    You will be tempted to hurry, but take your time and do it properly, you are not welding a typical welders job. I would go as far as to say that i will not trust a normal welder to do that job, as the moment i turn my back he will make 2 meter stitch

    PS. best is to use hard stop ruler or a contraption to make all exact same distance
    cheers mate, How do you know what temperature you are at?

  7. #57
    Quote Originally Posted by reefy86 View Post
    cheers mate, How do you know what temperature you are at?
    I have laser thermometer, but when it starts to feel too hot to the touch, thats it
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  8. #58
    thank you

  9. #59
    just ringing up some local places but before i do how much gas do you think ill be using? i have no idea if 10 litres or a thousand litres and i defiantly do not want to run out halfway through lol.

    what do you think of this welder

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MIG-WELDE...MAAOSwEzxYR~E6
    Last edited by reefy86; 08-12-2017 at 04:47 PM.

  10. #60
    Quote Originally Posted by reefy86 View Post
    just ringing up some local places but before i do how much gas do you think ill be using? i have no idea if 10 litres or a thousand litres and i defiantly do not want to run out halfway through lol.

    what do you think of this welder

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MIG-WELDE...MAAOSwEzxYR~E6
    It looks OK, but just be aware that it should not run off a 13A socket.

    As far as gas is concerned, get a cylinder, the disposables will cost a fortune and only last about 20 minutes (if you are lucky). There are two options Rent or Buy, Renting will cost you more and if you buy you can go pub gas or argon welding mix. Pub gas (Carbon dioxide) is cheaper but the proper weld mix gives better results https://www.hobbyweld.co.uk is a good place to look. Don't forget you will also need a regulator and flow meter.

    I would also recommend an auto-darkening mask.
    Albert Einstein may have been a genius, but his brother Frank, was a monster

    Having just moved to Windows 10 (which is crap) My stress levels are through the roof !!!

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