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  1. #11
    I think you need to measure the cross slide pitch,as Neale has stated i also was of the opinion that the Hobbymat series where metric. do you have a Dial Test Indicator ? if so set the zero on your dial(cross slide) and zero the DTI then do one complete revolution of the dial and read the displacement on the DTI

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by mekanik View Post
    I think you need to measure the cross slide pitch,as Neale has stated i also was of the opinion that the Hobbymat series where metric. do you have a Dial Test Indicator ? if so set the zero on your dial(cross slide) and zero the DTI then do one complete revolution of the dial and read the displacement on the DTI
    I do have a dial indicator but at the moment no way to mount it.

    So do the values on the image I sent not tell you if it's metric or imperial?

    Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

  3. #13
    treat yourself to a magnetic base, you will be needing it for setting up work in your 4 jaw
    https://www.yourspares.co.uk/parts/y...yABEgLsl_D_BwE
    The image you show of the dial is exactly the same as mine 0.1mm between the numbered sections 10 to one complete revolution therefore 1mm pitch leadscrew ie metric
    Last edited by mekanik; 16-12-2017 at 02:06 PM.

  4. #14
    Am i missing something here?

    Why don't you just learn English decimal..... It's kind of very, very simple to do basic conversions in your head.

    In the trade we use 40 thou (.040) = 1 mm its a tad over but more than adequate as long as you know very basic times tables (and if you don't and you have bought a lathe, something is wrong) its as easy as it gets.

    So lets say your machine cross slide lead screws/ dial work as most lathes do (not all) and it removes double the amount you put on the screw.

    You need to remove 2mm from a diameter, you touch the job or turn a diam to clean up the stock material.. this means you need 1 mm on the dial because when you turn, you machine both sides of the part because its rotating (a basic thing that a lot of newbies don't get) so 1 mm is 40 thou so you put a cut on of 40 thou... there is your 2 mm cut.

    1 mm 40 thou
    2 mm 80 thou
    3 mm 120 thou and so on its a the 4 times table... it cant get much simpler.

    Now to go in the other direction.
    .75 mm 30 thou
    .5 mm 20 thou
    .25mm 10 thou
    .10mm 4 thou
    .05mm 2 thou

    These are the rules we use in the trade and it really is simple to follow. I expect a lot of here will also use these rules it's not really rocket science to grasp.

    If a dim has to be a good size or has tight tolerance then you never normally say, oh 3 mm cut and hope you have the thing within a thou or less. You always, cut measure, cut measure, cut measure. Always make that cut smaller than the dimension you need so you gradually get nearer the size you need. Experience will speed up this process.

    There is nothing wrong with the advice you have been given its all sound.... but to me, learning how to use the machine is the answer not making the machine learn how to work to you.

    Really is no need to alter anything on the machine, the lathe isn't really the problem, its about you learning to use it This is a much cheaper solution.

  5. #15
    There is nothing wrong with the advice you have been given its all sound.... but to me, learning how to use the machine is the answer not making the machine learn how to work to you.

    Really is no need to alter anything on the machine, the lathe isn't really the problem, its about you learning to use it This is a much cheaper solution.

    +1

  6. #16
    Sticking my neck out but hey ho. I don't think back lash has been mentioned. I is important to keep the dial rotating in one direction only ie if you do back off make sure you back off a reasonable amount (to account for the back lash) and then go forward.

    Others will explain better
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by mekanik View Post
    treat yourself to a magnetic base, you will be needing it for setting up work in your 4 jaw
    https://www.yourspares.co.uk/parts/y...yABEgLsl_D_BwE
    The image you show of the dial is exactly the same as mine 0.1mm between the numbered sections 10 to one complete revolution therefore 1mm pitch leadscrew ie metric
    That has been added to my xmas list to my wife so fingers crossed.

    Appreciate all the advice guys

    I just made this which is the first thing I've ever made on my lathe.



    Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by dfox1787 View Post
    That has been added to my xmas list to my wife so fingers crossed.

    Appreciate all the advice guys

    I just made this which is the first thing I've ever made on my lathe.



    Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
    Took a while to make its made out of en24t steel.

    Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

  9. #19
    I can see from your fingers that you're a worker mate!
    'Nuf Respect to Ya!
    You think that's too expensive? You're not a Model Engineer are you? :D

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by magicniner View Post
    I can see from your fingers that you're a worker mate!
    'Nuf Respect to Ya!
    Haha thank you. I'll not tell you my day job.

    Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

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