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  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by dfox1787 View Post
    Haha thank you. I'll not tell you my day job.

    Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
    I'd strongly suggest adding a DRO to your machine, seriously, you will never look back, it's a bigger change compared to fitting a 3-phase motor with VFD!
    Regards,
    Nick
    You think that's too expensive? You're not a Model Engineer are you? :D

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by magicniner View Post
    I'd strongly suggest adding a DRO to your machine, seriously, you will never look back, it's a bigger change compared to fitting a 3-phase motor with VFD!
    Regards,
    Nick
    Ive seen videos or people using digital calipers to achieve this.

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by dfox1787 View Post
    Ive seen videos or people using digital calipers to achieve this.
    I started with digital scales on my Super 7 but you don't get multiple zeros, tool offsets, diameter/radius display option or a big illuminated display, all of which are significant components of the advantage offered by a DRO,
    Regards,
    Nick
    You think that's too expensive? You're not a Model Engineer are you? :D

  4. #24
    Super 7, Nick? Makes you sound like a Model Engineer!

    I jest - mine is around 35 years old now and would still be in the workshop if it hadn't been "borrowed" by my son when I acquired an old Smart and Brown lathe. The S&B came with a DRO which is somewhat ancient but isn't quite as old as the lathe, I think. Still very useful. Hadn't realised until then just how useful a DRO could be on a lathe, not having used one before. However, for the OP, I suspect that most DRO scales are going to be a bit big to fit on a mini-lathe, or if they do might restrict capacity or be somewhat vulnerable.

    If I were looking to make one upgrade to a new or newly-acquired lathe, I think I would go for a quick-change toolpost before DRO. But again, I'm not sure what is available that would fit the mini-lathe category.

    The DRO argument, though, is a bit like the metric/imperial conversion discussion going on. It doesn't do anything you can't do with "manual" dials, it just saves a bit of work and reduces the chance of errors. In the same way, you can do a metric/imperial conversion in your head, and if you do it often enough you will get faster. I mentioned the error in my earlier post re just changing the graduations - it's the same approximation, and generally not going to be significant in practice. I've done it often enough as all my lathes have been "single system" and I've had to convert (often mentally) to use "foreign" units, and in both directions. Made the odd mistake doing it, as well...

  5. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by Neale View Post
    Super 7, Nick? Makes you sound like a Model Engineer!
    :D
    Neale, in my defence it's the Long Bed model so the deeper bed casting improves rigidity and gives you 30" or so over the bed, front & rear QCTP, plus a head stock with 30.5mm through capacity and a 1hp motor & VFD.

    I agree to go QCTP first, size wise the magnetic linear tape scales and reader heads are very compact, I'd be surprised to find a machine that couldn't accommodate them.

    I like the speed, accuracy and convenience of the DRO, it's a personal choice though, some don't.
    You think that's too expensive? You're not a Model Engineer are you? :D

  6. #26
    I think the big-bore version was rather more desirable than the standard one, although it wasn't on the market for that long before Myford went under. Lack of capacity was one reason I went a little larger - I had things like machining ball-screw ends in mind, although it looks easier to get it all done in China these days.

    Anyway, I hope the OP tells us how he gets on with his machine!

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