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  1. #71
    AndyUK's Avatar
    Lives in Southampton, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 9 Hours Ago Has been a member for 2-3 years. Has a total post count of 198. Received thanks 52 times, giving thanks to others 22 times.
    If you're after the wiring diagram, there is an early version in post #37 (page 4 for me). It needs some updates though - most notably it needs 2k resistors on the enable + lines else it's a good way to blow the EM806, and it doesn't have the UC300 disabling the drives through the OSSD because this is new for me and still needs testing.

    My plan is to update the diagram and post soon :)

  2. #72
    Awesome,thanks.
    I am struggling to find time to continue with my build and it is very helpful to have a wiring to start with.

  3. #73
    AndyUK's Avatar
    Lives in Southampton, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 9 Hours Ago Has been a member for 2-3 years. Has a total post count of 198. Received thanks 52 times, giving thanks to others 22 times.
    Here's the current version of the circuit diagram - don't take it as gospel, check every connection against the datasheet of both things you're connecting as you go (that's how I realized before it was too late that +24V to the drives on the enable without the 2k resistor was a bad idea). I haven't made all these connections yet, so that's why I'm warning everyone!

    Circuit Diagram v2.3.pdf

    Having said that - let me know when you find a mistake ;)
    Last edited by AndyUK; 4 Weeks Ago at 11:33 PM.

  4. #74
    Doddy's Avatar
    Lives in Preston, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 9 Hours Ago Has been a member for 5-6 years. Has a total post count of 531. Received thanks 85 times, giving thanks to others 20 times.
    Andy, quick question - the schematic suggests the 4x2k resistors are commoned, unless you mean to draw a bus supply (yellow line to EN inputs on the drivers) - is that correct?

    I'd also protect the LED indicators from back emf from the relay coils - LEDs don't take reverse polarity well (unless these or the relays already have protection?)

  5. #75
    AndyUK's Avatar
    Lives in Southampton, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 9 Hours Ago Has been a member for 2-3 years. Has a total post count of 198. Received thanks 52 times, giving thanks to others 22 times.
    Thanks Doddy -

    I'm being very economical with my lines - the resistors arn't commoned at all - I'm just trying to say that it doesn't matter which line goes into which input, and I didn't have room to draw them all individually, however I'm constantly rejigging it so will try and fix that for clarity.

    I don't think the LEDs are protected - good point. Is that just a diode across the LED in the opposite direction to allow the back EMF to flow past it? Haven't wired those relays yet - they're on order (as the initial ones were 24VAC).

    Edit - Diagram updated above.
    Last edited by AndyUK; 4 Weeks Ago at 11:33 PM.

  6. #76
    Doddy's Avatar
    Lives in Preston, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 9 Hours Ago Has been a member for 5-6 years. Has a total post count of 531. Received thanks 85 times, giving thanks to others 20 times.
    Understood about economy of lines, I’d originally interpreted the schematic a described but there’s other examples of 1:1 mapping which was enough to ask the question.

    Led protection?, what you describe is perfectly good. I’d have thought to suppress directly across the coil but across the led works as well

  7. #77
    Good point about the diode protection from back emf, I have placed mine directly on the relay to protect the coil from back emf.
    What do I miss about the resistors on the enble+ line? I mean obviously the resistors will reduce the current flow but how much is the current that will run if the resistor is not there and how much is acceptable?
    I have the AM882 that is why I am asking!
    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #78
    AndyUK's Avatar
    Lives in Southampton, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 9 Hours Ago Has been a member for 2-3 years. Has a total post count of 198. Received thanks 52 times, giving thanks to others 22 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by Nickhofen View Post
    Good point about the diode protection from back emf, I have placed mine directly on the relay to protect the coil from back emf.
    What do I miss about the resistors on the enble+ line? I mean obviously the resistors will reduce the current flow but how much is the current that will run if the resistor is not there and how much is acceptable?
    I have the AM882 that is why I am asking!
    The AM882 has the same logic signal current specifications as the EM806 (hardly surprising considering they're basically the same thing, but I thought I'd check). 7-16mA with a nominal of 10mA. They've designed it for a 5V signal, so I expect the internal resistance is ~500 Ohms (because that's what gives 10mA for 5V). V=IR, so I = 24V / 2.5kOhm = 9.6mA. (I used 2.5kOhm because my 2k resistor plus 0.5k internal).

    Or, you can just read the diagram in the driver's manual about the connection where it specifies in a small box below that you need to add a 2kOhm resistor if the signal is 24V, which is a far simpler way to do it!

    We don't need the resistors on any of the other lines - The pulse and direction outputs from the UB1 are 5V signals, and the alarm signal is an output not an input, so it has different specifications.

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  10. #79
    AndyUK's Avatar
    Lives in Southampton, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 9 Hours Ago Has been a member for 2-3 years. Has a total post count of 198. Received thanks 52 times, giving thanks to others 22 times.
    Looking at limit and home switch placement... I've kinda put this off as long as possible, but here goes.

    The idea is to use proximity switches for both - and to use two travelling switches on Z and Y, then 3 fixed switches on each X axis.

    Unfortunately because I've only thought about these late in the game, they're a bit shoe-horned in - I'd appreciate any comments or suggestions... I feel like I've tried about a million different placements.

    I remember reading somewhere that proximity switches should be triggered by a sloped target - I'm not sure if I've got my targets sloped in the right direction, or even what angle to aim for.... Some advice would be awesome!

    Zoomed Out for Reference:
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    Z Axis:
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    Y Axis Limit
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    Y Axis Home + Limit
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    X Axis Limit
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    X Axis Home + Limit
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    Last edited by AndyUK; 4 Weeks Ago at 11:46 PM.

  11. #80
    AndyUK's Avatar
    Lives in Southampton, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 9 Hours Ago Has been a member for 2-3 years. Has a total post count of 198. Received thanks 52 times, giving thanks to others 22 times.
    I've also posted a few wiring questions over on CNCRoom - my hope was that they'd be able to help more with the UB1 specifics, but seems to be drawing a blank so-far. If anyones interested, the post is here: https://www.cnczone.com/forums/uccnc...92066-cnc.html

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