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  1. #151
    Nice Job Andy, very rewarding isn't it when you get results like these. Don't be araid to push the machine, I'd be inclined to lower the step over on the ballnose so you get a smoother finish, it could be the pictures but it looks a little scolloped which comes from too large a step over. I use between 3 - 5% diameter on cutters 3mm or less and 10% on anything larger. Takes a little longer but get a nice smooth finish.
    -use common sense, if you lack it, there is no software to help that.

    Email: [email protected]

    Web site: www.jazzcnc.co.uk

  2. #152
    Thanks Dean - I used Aspire's default step over, so no idea what it was set to! I'll look into it tonight and get it into that range.

    Out of interest, what would you expect to see DOC wise on a router like this with a 4mm single flute? APT suggests slowing down from those parameters once you're over 1.5 D, but I assume that advice is really for mills; 6mm felt like quite a big chunk to be taking.

  3. #153
    Quote Originally Posted by AndyUK View Post
    Thanks Dean - I used Aspire's default step over, so no idea what it was set to! I'll look into it tonight and get it into that range.

    Out of interest, what would you expect to see DOC wise on a router like this with a 4mm single flute? APT suggests slowing down from those parameters once you're over 1.5 D, but I assume that advice is really for mills; 6mm felt like quite a big chunk to be taking.
    Ye aspire is mostly based on wood which is a little less forgiving so any small scollops can be sanded away but in Ali you want a smaller stepover for the best finish.

    Difficult to say because every machine is different, spindle power and rigidity plays a big part. If it was me I'd start at 50% D and feel your way down. Or just go for it turn the spindle up to full RPM so you are getting Max torque then go with 1.5xD and play with feeds n speeds.
    -use common sense, if you lack it, there is no software to help that.

    Email: [email protected]

    Web site: www.jazzcnc.co.uk

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  5. #154
    Quote Originally Posted by Kered View Post
    If the 4th axis is for marking round parts like a rolling pin etc. I have done it on my laser engraver by using a small stepper and connect it to the Y axis, intead of the gantry moving the length it stays still but the rolling pin turns as the laser writes, not sure which axis is which on a cnc router so it might be X in your case. Its a simple device with a 3d printed mandril one end that grips and a pinpoint on the other and the work is held in between, I'd upload a photo but i gave it to a friend. Its not a full permanent 4th axis but you can write on round tubular objects, on a router probably cut them too. Not sure if its what you need, just a thought.

    Derek
    PD Are you the same Andyuk that designed the belt tensioner for the eleksmaker A3 pro laser engraver, every time I see a post of yours it reminds me of it as the way you write AndyUK is the same.
    Hi Derek,

    Sorry, not the same, just another Andy from the UK ;)

    Yes I've seen that type of 4th axis, quite ingenious! I worry about the accuracy of such a system though, and I wonder if the Cam is a nightmare! I was more thinking along the lines of a high torque stepper, some gear reduction, a chuck and a tailstock.

    Thanks for that Jazz - much appreciated.

  6. #155
    Muzzer's Avatar
    Lives in Lytham St. Annes, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 11 Hours Ago Has been a member for 6-7 years. Has a total post count of 417. Received thanks 61 times, giving thanks to others 10 times.
    Not sure if it's quite what you are after but I've just about finished a fairly conventional 4th axis using one of the harmonic drives and a servo motor, all culled from one of the Korean scrapyards. Looks good so far - had it jogging yesterday.

    This is for a metalworking milling machine, so has a 125mm 3 jaw chuck which I have bored through 36mm, so I can hold long stock.

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  8. #156
    I like! Thanks Muzzer :)

  9. #157
    Quick update to the Aluminium Bead Presses. Other half demanded six sizes of the 3D hearts in both a horizontal and vertical press. Settled on a 0.2mm step-over - we did some tests lower down but whilst the finish was buttery smooth the tooling marks arn't translating into the glass, so decided this was a good compromise (or if they are, they're soon rounded up by heat). Getting some great consistency out of the presses, so happy customer :)

    Click image for larger version. 

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    We're now exploring other shapes.... (The ribs are intentional - not poor machining!)

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The machine is doing fantastically. Its been running 9 months now and hasn't skipped a beat. I had my first acrylic cutting experience recently which went very well. We used two layers to create an illuminated panel, solid grey on top cutting down through to a transparent opal - and if it wasn't a sign for my own address I'd be sharing pictures!

    My 4th Axis dreams are on hold for the time being however - a Warco metalworking lathe has just arrived in the garage, which changes things slightly, and I now need to learn how to turn. Never a quiet moment!

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  11. #158
    This build is looking great! I've been following for a while since I want to rebuild my table to be pretty darn close to this one, only 1.5x1. I like the fact that you used an hybrid solution for assembling the table. My workshop is in the first floor so if i had to ever move and it was all soldered it'd be a death sentence. Is there any chance you would upload the solidwords stuff? Thanks a lot!

  12. #159
    Quote Originally Posted by fer662 View Post
    This build is looking great! I've been following for a while since I want to rebuild my table to be pretty darn close to this one, only 1.5x1. I like the fact that you used an hybrid solution for assembling the table. My workshop is in the first floor so if i had to ever move and it was all soldered it'd be a death sentence. Is there any chance you would upload the solidwords stuff? Thanks a lot!
    Hi fer662,

    Thanks :) Although my table is welded, and won't be coming apart without a grinder! The bolts were used to position everything for my first time welding, and are mostly aesthetic now. If I did need to separate the frame I'd need to repeat the epoxy levelling - its something I've mulled over, as we're considering building an extension which might trap the CNC in the workshop for good...

    Happy to send over any pictures of the model you'd fancy and provide dimensions, but the CAD is such a sprawling mess its a nightmare to get everything together to share. I'm also not sure of the benefits - if you're serious about building, designing the CAD model yourself is very helpful in organizing your thoughts, and helps your understanding how it all fits together, and it needs to be specific to your components. There are also a number of improvements I'd make now I've gone through the process, so if you start a build log you'll get a lot of suggestions from all directions.

  13. #160
    Quote Originally Posted by AndyUK View Post
    Hi fer662,

    Thanks :) Although my table is welded, and won't be coming apart without a grinder! The bolts were used to position everything for my first time welding, and are mostly aesthetic now. If I did need to separate the frame I'd need to repeat the epoxy levelling - its something I've mulled over, as we're considering building an extension which might trap the CNC in the workshop for good...

    Happy to send over any pictures of the model you'd fancy and provide dimensions, but the CAD is such a sprawling mess its a nightmare to get everything together to share. I'm also not sure of the benefits - if you're serious about building, designing the CAD model yourself is very helpful in organizing your thoughts, and helps your understanding how it all fits together, and it needs to be specific to your components. There are also a number of improvements I'd make now I've gone through the process, so if you start a build log you'll get a lot of suggestions from all directions.
    Oh, for sure I would be making my own CAD, but since your design is pretty similar to what i had in mind i'm bound to stumble upon the same problems and decisions and thought having a tried and tested design would help me resolve those at some point. The most significant difference is I don't have access to a mill... I do have my current tabletop CNC that i intend to use to machine the aluminum flatbar into whatever plates I need, and I also have a hobby lathe (not the crappiest kind, I think its the same as the Warco you might be more familiar with in the UK).

    Oh, so you essentially welded the sides, then assembled the table with screws and taps, and then welded it together? was it mostly to prevent it from moving?
    What about the legs, did you solder anything below the open 80x80 tubes? I cannot bolt the table down to the floor because i have floor hitting and i'm sure i'll be unlucky enough to hit a hose with the drill. Probably won't be necessary as the table will weight a shit ton.

    Sorry my reply is a mess! Yes, i'd appreciate any pictures you could send about how all the frame is attached.

    Attaching a pic of my baby. I started this years when I didn't even have a workshop, let alone a proper one. It literally spent some time in the coffee table in the living room until i stole the laundry room from the wife. Now that i do and i've had time to see the flaws it's time for an upgrade. I already have all the hiwin style rails and longer screws. I'll be reusing only the longest axis rails that are now in X for the Y gantry (1m). I've already redone the control box and electronics and added the extra driver for dual X screws.
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