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  1. Nice Job Andy, very rewarding isn't it when you get results like these. Don't be araid to push the machine, I'd be inclined to lower the step over on the ballnose so you get a smoother finish, it could be the pictures but it looks a little scolloped which comes from too large a step over. I use between 3 - 5% diameter on cutters 3mm or less and 10% on anything larger. Takes a little longer but get a nice smooth finish.
    -use common sense, if you lack it, there is no software to help that.

  2. #152
    AndyUK's Avatar
    Lives in Southampton, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 3 Hours Ago Has been a member for 3-4 years. Has a total post count of 364. Received thanks 74 times, giving thanks to others 35 times. Referred 1 members to the community.
    Thanks Dean - I used Aspire's default step over, so no idea what it was set to! I'll look into it tonight and get it into that range.

    Out of interest, what would you expect to see DOC wise on a router like this with a 4mm single flute? APT suggests slowing down from those parameters once you're over 1.5 D, but I assume that advice is really for mills; 6mm felt like quite a big chunk to be taking.

  3. If the 4th axis is for marking round parts like a rolling pin etc. I have done it on my laser engraver by using a small stepper and connect it to the Y axis, intead of the gantry moving the length it stays still but the rolling pin turns as the laser writes, not sure which axis is which on a cnc router so it might be X in your case. Its a simple device with a 3d printed mandril one end that grips and a pinpoint on the other and the work is held in between, I'd upload a photo but i gave it to a friend. Its not a full permanent 4th axis but you can write on round tubular objects, on a router probably cut them too. Not sure if its what you need, just a thought.

    Derek
    PD Are you the same Andyuk that designed the belt tensioner for the eleksmaker A3 pro laser engraver, every time I see a post of yours it reminds me of it as the way you write AndyUK is the same.

  4. Quote Originally Posted by AndyUK View Post
    Thanks Dean - I used Aspire's default step over, so no idea what it was set to! I'll look into it tonight and get it into that range.

    Out of interest, what would you expect to see DOC wise on a router like this with a 4mm single flute? APT suggests slowing down from those parameters once you're over 1.5 D, but I assume that advice is really for mills; 6mm felt like quite a big chunk to be taking.
    Ye aspire is mostly based on wood which is a little less forgiving so any small scollops can be sanded away but in Ali you want a smaller stepover for the best finish.

    Difficult to say because every machine is different, spindle power and rigidity plays a big part. If it was me I'd start at 50% D and feel your way down. Or just go for it turn the spindle up to full RPM so you are getting Max torque then go with 1.5xD and play with feeds n speeds.
    -use common sense, if you lack it, there is no software to help that.

  5. The Following User Says Thank You to JAZZCNC For This Useful Post:


  6. #155
    AndyUK's Avatar
    Lives in Southampton, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 3 Hours Ago Has been a member for 3-4 years. Has a total post count of 364. Received thanks 74 times, giving thanks to others 35 times. Referred 1 members to the community.
    Quote Originally Posted by Kered View Post
    If the 4th axis is for marking round parts like a rolling pin etc. I have done it on my laser engraver by using a small stepper and connect it to the Y axis, intead of the gantry moving the length it stays still but the rolling pin turns as the laser writes, not sure which axis is which on a cnc router so it might be X in your case. Its a simple device with a 3d printed mandril one end that grips and a pinpoint on the other and the work is held in between, I'd upload a photo but i gave it to a friend. Its not a full permanent 4th axis but you can write on round tubular objects, on a router probably cut them too. Not sure if its what you need, just a thought.

    Derek
    PD Are you the same Andyuk that designed the belt tensioner for the eleksmaker A3 pro laser engraver, every time I see a post of yours it reminds me of it as the way you write AndyUK is the same.
    Hi Derek,

    Sorry, not the same, just another Andy from the UK ;)

    Yes I've seen that type of 4th axis, quite ingenious! I worry about the accuracy of such a system though, and I wonder if the Cam is a nightmare! I was more thinking along the lines of a high torque stepper, some gear reduction, a chuck and a tailstock.

    Thanks for that Jazz - much appreciated.

  7. Same thing will work on a heavier scale and instead of a 3d printed chuck you could either get a cheap metalwork chuck or a woodwork chuck, they are not expensive in the smaller sizes, on my laser it was just a nema 17 but as it was lasering no need for much torque.
    If you want to go the full hog you could get a 100mm dividing head 80mm chuck and tailstock to match and instead of handle put on a small stepper, they are usually 90:1 reduction so the motor would not need to be big, plenty on fleebay to give you an idea of price, all depends on how much you want to spend really, mine is a 150mm dividing head, 110mm chuck and tailstock, it came with 3 dividing plates and cost 230€, you dont need the dividing plates but they are 75€ + so instead a stepper , mine is all cast iron so rigid.
    Derek

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