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  1. #81
    Why 2 switches on each axis if they are traveling.? The point of having traveling switches is to lower the number of switches.

    All you do to use 1 switch is set the same input number for each Limit IE: X Lim (++) = Input 1 and X Lim (- -) = 1. X Home = 1. Then when Switch sees the target at each end it trips Both Limits, It doesn't matter which Limit shows on screen all that matters is that it trips when triggered.
    When it's homing it ignores limits and looks for the Switch trigger.

    Regards Sloped Target then it's not needed for proximity switches. Just needs to see the metal target, However, it is better if switch passes over the target rather than butting up to it.

    Also, you don't need 3 switches on Each X-axis. Only need 3 Switches for Both sides. X2 only needs a Home SW it doesn't need Limits the other side deals with Limits.
    Last edited by JAZZCNC; 10-11-2019 at 06:22 PM.

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  3. #82
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Why 2 switches on each axis if they are traveling.? The point of having traveling switches is to lower the number of switches.

    All you do to use 1 switch is set the same input number for each Limit IE: X Lim (++) = Input 1 and X Lim (- -) = 1. X Home = 1. Then when Switch sees the target at each end it trips Both Limits, It doesn't matter which Limit shows on screen all that matters is that it trips when triggered.
    When it's homing it ignores limits and looks for the Switch trigger.
    Thanks Jazz, didn't realise you could use the same switch for both limit and home! I can see two advantages to using two switches; it means the limits can form part of the safety circuit, and I'm not sure I like the idea of needing software to guarantee a stop.., and on the off-chance I have a faulty home switch or messed up homing sequence, I'm still protected (which is hopefully the only situation that I'm headed towards the limits blindly).

    Clearly needs more of a think :)

    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Regards Sloped Target then it's not needed for proximity switches. Just needs to see the metal target, However, it is better if switch passes over the target rather than butting up to it.
    Cool that saves some shaping.

    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Also, you don't need 3 switches on Each X-axis. Only need 3 Switches for Both sides. X2 only needs a Home SW it doesn't need Limits the other side deals with Limits.
    Good catch - clearly not with it yesterday :) That is what I've drawn in the circuit diagram, just wasn't thinking straight when playing with CAD...
    Last edited by AndyUK; 11-11-2019 at 12:03 AM.

  4. #83
    Quote Originally Posted by AndyUK View Post
    Thanks Jazz, didn't realize you could use the same switch for both limit and home! I can see two advantages to using two switches; it means the limits can form part of the safety circuit, and I'm not sure I like the idea of needing software to guarantee a stop..,
    It depends on how you look at it.? Limits are not really a Safety or E-stop situation, they are a positional error not really an emergency situation.
    For instance, the most common limit trip isn't because machines run off on its own accord but rather because you jogged into them or set Work zero too close to limits. In which case the Software will warn you and won't allow when soft limits are turned on. However, having to reset the drives every time you jog into a limit soon becomes a pain and on small machines, this happens a lot when first learning.
    Also your not actually relying on software with the UB1 or better controllers because the controller's hardware actually stops the motion and then informs software it's happened.

  5. #84
    Spent the day thinking about Jazz's suggestions - decided to listen to wisdom :)

    The clincher is that it really simplifies the circuits, and I don't have to now work out how to connect the proximity switches I have (NPN NC) in series - I can now just run each back to the controller and have enough input pins to deal with it.

    Leaves me needing 5 proximity switches in total - a Positive X limit, two Negative Xs (one each side, doubling as the X homes), a Y and a Z (each doing triple duty). You can see most of them and their trigger plates highlighted in the diagram below.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by AndyUK; 11-11-2019 at 10:01 PM.

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  7. #85
    Quote Originally Posted by AndyUK View Post
    Spent the day thinking about Jazz's suggestions - decided to listen to wisdom :)

    The clincher is that it really simplifies the circuits, and I don't have to now work out how to connect the proximity switches I have (NPN NC) in series - I can now just run each back to the controller and have enough input pins to deal with it.
    KIS approach works best every time. I've built dozens machines that use this setup without any safety issues. The only time I use separate limits is when using Servo motors because they do just take off when Encoders fail.

  8. #86
    So, I've had a very frustrating evening trying to get my EM806s to talk to my computer running the Protuner application.

    After about three hours of getting 'unable to connect to drive' messages, trying every version of the software known to man, every pin combination I could think of, and every port setting I could muster, on windows 10, Mac OS, and windows 7, I was having absolutely no luck getting my USB to RS232 FTDI adaptor to work. I finally remembered that the old PC i'm using for the CNC has a physical com port on it, and within two minutes everything is working perfectly.... I suppose it counts as a success if it works eventually right?

    Anyhow, all my drives are now programmed with the opposite settings for fault output and enable, which means that the fault output is NC, and the drive is only enabled with a high output signal from the UB1's safety circuit. Therefore, if the Spindle or a single drive faults, the drives remain powered but disabled.

    The anally retentive label fairy has also visited; I realised whilst wiring up the lines to the control panel I had the potential for 24 terminal blocks each doing different things with no labels, and although I have diagrams and terminal block numbers.... didn't feel like in a years time I'd remember what the hell each one did. Out came the 3D printer, and I printed some stages which fit over the terminal blocks and allow me to place labels on them. I also printed some blanking plugs for my spare GX20 and GX16 holes on the gland plate.

    If you also feel like the fairy needs to visit, I've put the files up on thingiverse.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #87
    Time for the Sunday night update!

    Electronics have been relocated to their cabinet - everything in there is wired up and done (... I think...). I'm waiting on a couple more bits for the gland plate which are delaying things somewhat (I can't really solder the connectors on until the gland plate has all the right holes in). Thinking a 300mm deep cabinet may have been slightly overkill, but initially I was very concerned about how far the VFD was sticking out.

    I've also sorted out the water coolant tank - rather a nice skip find! I've put my water pump in that bottle, just needs wiring up and re-sealing.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Next up - the home/limit switches. I've 3D printed holders for them, and mounted two of the three X switches. I plan to silicon that hole to prevent the cable rubbing with vibration once I'm happy with their locations.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    And last but not least, I've been working on keeping the wiring on the machine tidy. I 3D printed a set of clips to route the wires from the X Right side across to the wall side of the machine, and plan to use this technique all around. This is one of the clip prototypes:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    And here they are in action:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    In order from bottom to top, this is the Motor wire, then the water cooling for the motor, then two limit switches. Quite fond of these :)

    In other news, I've managed to find some cable chain for Z and Y from another skip, and will order the X axis cable chain tomorrow. You might also spot that I've added in the holder for the Y axis cable chain.

    I'm having trouble finding some U section perspex to act as a finger guard on the X right hand side over the ballscrew - if anyone knows a company or person that might be able to help with a custom extrusion or who can bend this, it would be ace. I'd really like to keep it transparent, but keep little fingers out...

  10. #88
    Nice and tidy,good job Andy!

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  12. #89
    Small Circuit Diagram Updates:

    Circuit Diagram v2.4.pdf

    I've added an extra control line to the spindle to enable the reverse spindle command. Don't know if I'll ever use it, but may as well wire it up while I'm here. I've also added the Z probe, and control line labels, which will probably only make sense to me, but hey, now its here as a backup for me in years to come!

    Planned Spindle Parameters with my setup:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    These are basically as per the sticky thread, but I've customized the multi-input and FA/FB/FC functions, and chosen other parameters for my setup (and added labels for anyone who can't be bothered to look them up in the manual!!).

    Progress otherwise has been generally quite slow having been away for a while...

    I've finished the gland plate wiring and soldering, and am now working on the cable chain arrangements before finishing up the GX20 plugs on the motors and spindle. I've rescued some old Igus chain from work, but it didn't have any ends, and they're no longer in production, so I'm 3D printing my own mounts which is taking a few iterations.

    With the gland plate finished, that is essentially everything in the cabinet done, so I powered it up for the first time in place the other night to test communications etc (PC is on the other side of the garage, had some fun with evil CAT5 cables, panel mount CAT5 joiners, and a apparently one of my crimpers is dodgy). The airflow through the cabinet sounds proper industrial... :) That was then followed up by the PC's graphics card dying, and ironically a licencing issue with UCCNC exactly like Voicecoil's that magically fixed itself after about an hour... I genuinely have no idea what I changed. Fun week.

    Bridgeport time has also been limited, so I have one of my x-axis motor mounts and am hoping to mill the second this weekend. The water-cooling blocks are in and waiting, so I'll try mounting the motors in the steel tubing as per the design and see what burns out first :)
    Last edited by AndyUK; 29-01-2020 at 10:18 PM. Reason: Updated Spindle Params - Thx Jazz

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  14. #90
    PD 14 and PD15 are too low you will get overvolt or over current trips at higher rpm because it cannot get to commanded speed in 2 second or stop spindle in 1 second so it dumps in a load of volts/current to try get there but cannot possibly do it.

    Set PD14=5 PD15=10 for safe settings. Then if your not quite at full RPM before G-code starts moving set an M3 delay in the spindle settings.

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