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  1. #81
    Quote Originally Posted by AndyUK View Post
    Another option is to grab yourself a server rack with a glass front (reasonably inexpensive on ebay - especially the kits or 2nd hand), or use a large PC case.
    Server cabinets are cheap enough, the larger ones can't be given away sometimes. I have one dismantled in storage, deep enough to put a tool cabinet in the front and the control electronics in the back.

    I built my control box in an old computer case, with the computer in another :-
    Click image for larger version. 

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    It got a bit messy recently when I splashed it with a solution of black ABS, nothing like the mess when a spray can exploded on my garage

    Cheers,

    Rob-T

  2. #82
    Quote Originally Posted by diycnc View Post
    With the current setup, if one fuse blows on say the z axis, the other axis will just continue regardless, potentially damaging the part or even the machine. Is there a software or hardware tool to stop this happening?
    I've been wondering about how to retro-fit stall detection to deal with every 2-motors-on-one-axis-machine owners worst nightmare using DIY rotary encoders. So far I have a bag of 15 optical detectors (under $10AUD including delivery from RS), a nice Postcript file that Google found for me that will draw the encoder pattern and a piece of 0.25mm stainless shim. The plan is to use the 'toner transfer' method beloved of DIY circuit board builders to acid etch my own discs to fit onto my ballscrews and use an Arduino to detect when one axis moves and the other doesn't. You could always use this to detect lack of movement on any axis by comparing the encoder output with the step pulse input.

    This is going to be one of those 'something to do while the varnish dries on my main activity' projects so don't hold your breath, but I will be reporting my success (if any) on the forum.

    Kit
    An optimist says the glass is half full, a pessimist says the glass is half empty, an engineer says you're using the wrong sized glass.

  3. #83
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    It's the adaptive tool paths that allow him to get away with it as they take very lite cuts but at full depth.
    I noticed that. I think it's something my beloved CamBam software cannot do and might just be the last straw that kicks my a**e into gear and makes me put the effort into learning to use Fusion 360. I'm sure my machine is rigid enough, or it will be when I finally find a suppllier for the right sized Ally plates to convert my Z-axis from it's current plywood prototype assembly.
    An optimist says the glass is half full, a pessimist says the glass is half empty, an engineer says you're using the wrong sized glass.

  4. #84
    diycnc's Avatar
    Lives in Manchester, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 2 Weeks Ago Has been a member for 6-7 years. Has a total post count of 66. Received thanks 2 times, giving thanks to others 11 times.
    Got a new multimeter and I'm getting 33v from each secondary. Glad I didn't get a 35v transformer or I would be very close to the 80v max.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    To wire this thing in series, am I correct in thinking I connect the yellow and black?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Also the drivers dont have positive and negative marked on the input, both are just labelled AC. I'm guessing that because it AC it doesn't matter which way around it connected?
    Last edited by diycnc; 15-11-2019 at 09:06 PM.

  5. #85
    Quote Originally Posted by diycnc View Post
    To wire this thing in series, am I correct in thinking I connect the yellow and black?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Yep.

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  7. #86
    diycnc's Avatar
    Lives in Manchester, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 2 Weeks Ago Has been a member for 6-7 years. Has a total post count of 66. Received thanks 2 times, giving thanks to others 11 times.
    The drivers dont have positive and negative marked on the input, both are just labelled AC. I'm guessing thats because its AC it doesn't matter which way around its connected?
    Does this also apply to the location of the fuse?

  8. #87
    Quote Originally Posted by diycnc View Post
    The drivers dont have positive and negative marked on the input, both are just labelled AC. I'm guessing thats because its AC it doesn't matter which way around its connected?
    Does this also apply to the location of the fuse?
    Yep often they are labeled R S but can put anyway around. I always connect live to R and Nuetral to S

  9. #88
    diycnc's Avatar
    Lives in Manchester, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 2 Weeks Ago Has been a member for 6-7 years. Has a total post count of 66. Received thanks 2 times, giving thanks to others 11 times.
    Finally got around to putting some test electronics together, just need to connect the motor and flash grbl onto the arduino. Would be awesome if someone could take a look at my wiring befor I do anything too stupid. I'm a bit unsure about the earth at the moment. The negative enable, step, and pulse are all connected together and the ground pin on the arduino. And mains earth isn't connected to anything at the moment.
    Once I have one tested and working, will test all three together.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by diycnc; 24-11-2019 at 08:42 PM.

  10. #89
    diycnc's Avatar
    Lives in Manchester, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 2 Weeks Ago Has been a member for 6-7 years. Has a total post count of 66. Received thanks 2 times, giving thanks to others 11 times.
    Just spotting I have the fuse on the zero volt side of the psu!

  11. #90
    If it were me I'd run the enable, pulse and dir. signals as twisted pairs - common the -ve ends up at the Arduino. This approach gives much cleaner waveforms and better resistance to interference.

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