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  1. #11
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    Frame is steel, Gantry is all aluminium

    http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7733-...-router-design

    I started it nearly 4 years ago!

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by CharlieRam View Post
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    Frame is steel, Gantry is all aluminium

    http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7733-...-router-design

    I started it nearly 4 years ago!
    The math is sound :-)

    I found that my box section 1850x120x80x4 mm was + 2 mm bend in the middle by welding heat.

    I had a +/- 1mm error in spirit level. over 1850 mm...

    It all add up. so 6mm thickness... i am not sure.. i did not have the best of spirit levels
    So on the ends i have 8 and 7 mm thickness now.. 5.5 or so in centre.

    I had some leaks while pouring.

    Mostly because of heat from the shop heater on the channel sides.
    Wood dried and bended.

    Can see through under the square rails through the epoxy now
    Make sure to use packing tape on the sides ... best tip ever.

    Ok hope this helps.

    I have steel gantry so more pouring on there for me.

    Get the A pack.. it is 50 gbp or so.



    Grtz Bert.


    If you like to gamble a little...

    Carbonwinkel.nl is where i bought.
    Google translate is your friend here.
    GLS delivered from German warehouse.

    w300 5 hour potlife @ 75euro for 3kg.

    Has about the same spec compared to 105 209

    First day you think it is never going solid









    Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk

  3. The Following User Says Thank You to driftspin For This Useful Post:


  4. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by CharlieRam View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	CNC MC.PNG 
Views:	47 
Size:	135.7 KB 
ID:	24032

    Frame is steel, Gantry is all aluminium

    http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7733-...-router-design

    I started it nearly 4 years ago!
    Oh 4years.. that is a good warning to keep at it.....

    Thanks for that...


    Going to order some stuff for psu now


    Grtz Bert.




    Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk

  5. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by driftspin View Post
    The math is sound :-)

    I found that my box section 1850x120x80x4 mm was + 2 mm bend in the middle by welding heat.

    I had a +/- 1mm error in spirit level. over 1850 mm...

    It all add up. so 6mm thickness... i am not sure.. i did not have the best of spirit levels
    So on the ends i have 8 and 7 mm thickness now.. 5.5 or so in centre.

    I had some leaks while pouring.

    Mostly because of heat from the shop heater on the channel sides.
    Wood dried and bended.

    Can see through under the square rails through the epoxy now
    Make sure to use packing tape on the sides ... best tip ever.

    Ok hope this helps.

    I have steel gantry so more pouring on there for me.

    Get the A pack.. it is 50 gbp or so.



    Grtz Bert.


    If you like to gamble a little...

    Carbonwinkel.nl is where i bought.
    Google translate is your friend here.
    GLS delivered from German warehouse.

    w300 5 hour potlife @ 75euro for 3kg.

    Has about the same spec compared to 105 209

    First day you think it is never going solid









    Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk
    All the steel frame is welded apart from the steel top rail tube section which is bolted on to allow me to shim the rails prior to pouring epoxy. I'm thinking of pouring in two sessions 1 day apart so it's still able to chemically bond but 1st pour of approx 3mm to try and fill any dips and also to find any leaks! Then 2nd pour a day or two later so that any depth difference doesn't affect the shrinkage.

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

  6. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by CharlieRam View Post
    All the steel frame is welded apart from the steel top rail tube section which is bolted on to allow me to shim the rails prior to pouring epoxy. I'm thinking of pouring in two sessions 1 day apart so it's still able to chemically bond but 1st pour of approx 3mm to try and fill any dips and also to find any leaks! Then 2nd pour a day or two later so that any depth difference doesn't affect the shrinkage.

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
    When you do the final pour if you see any bubbles you can flash a hot air gun across the top and they will disappear.

    Also don't be in a hurry to remove the moat give is at least 8-9 days before you touch it.
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  7. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by CharlieRam View Post
    All the steel frame is welded apart from the steel top rail tube section which is bolted on to allow me to shim the rails prior to pouring epoxy. I'm thinking of pouring in two sessions 1 day apart so it's still able to chemically bond but 1st pour of approx 3mm to try and fill any dips and also to find any leaks! Then 2nd pour a day or two later so that any depth difference doesn't affect the shrinkage.

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
    Not sure i understand..

    Epoxy is to prevent the need for shimming ? No?


    Are you shimming and then fitting rail in wet epoxy maybe?


    I found my wet epoxy film needed about 4mm + to flow at some speed..

    Not sure how to explain this well... not native in english..


    Grtz Bert.






    Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk

  8. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by driftspin View Post
    Not sure i understand..

    Epoxy is to prevent the need for shimming ? No?


    Are you shimming and then fitting rail in wet epoxy maybe?


    I found my wet epoxy film needed about 4mm + to flow at some speed..

    Not sure how to explain this well... not native in english..


    Grtz Bert.






    Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk
    Shimming just to get the rails more even before I apply the resin, probably a little overkill

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to CharlieRam For This Useful Post:


  10. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by CharlieRam View Post
    Shimming just to get the rails more even before I apply the resin, probably a little overkill

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
    Ha, yes no there is no such thing as overkill. not in cnc.


    I knew about the shrink difference caused by film thickness variations.

    I was unable to measure imperfections by shrinkage differences.
    I have no tools for this.

    I tried to check by means of feeler gauge 0.02mm and using 1400mm 8040 profile vs epoxy surface...
    Did not find any obvious gaps... I was very impressed by that result.

    I do feel that now my rails are mounted i could "glue" them and support them more by miniscus forming, epoxying them in place.


    Grtz Bert.



    Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk

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