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  1. #1
    Wal's Avatar
    Lives in Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 30-03-2023 Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 491. Received thanks 71 times, giving thanks to others 29 times.
    Hi all,

    Just wondering if anyone has any experience with building an etch press - something along the lines of this:



    I've started to design one and have begun collecting odds and sods that I'll be using along the way (take-up bearings, flange bearings etc.)

    One thing that's got me a bit stumped, though, is how to get my hands on a pair of live shaft stainless rollers. I'm attaching a .pdf of what it is I'm after. Dimensions are approximate at the moment, but won't be far off that. The long 60mm shaft will need a flat on it for the hand-wheel grub-screw to bite on.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	rollers.pdf 
Views:	233 
Size:	170.3 KB 
ID:	24223

    Ok, there's the obvious way, pay someone to turn 'em - I imagine this will be pretty pricey, given the chunkiness of what I'm after, but if you know any different then let me know..!

    Or I could fabricate 'em from a steel pipe with a steel shaft passing through it held central by a couple of alu caps made on the mini-mill. (All probably glued up with the strongest epoxy I can find...)

    Any other ideas..?

    Wal.

  2. #2
    Even with a lathe I'd be temped to centre drill stock 50mm stainless bar pre-cut to length, bore out (or drill) then ream to 15mm dia and maybe 40mm depth, then tap some 15mm dowel into the reamed holes with some loctite.

    I wouldn't bother trying to turn down the 50mm bar. At least with my ML7 (small spindle bore) I'd have to turn between centres.

    I guess there's a reason it has to be stainless?

  3. #3
    Wal's Avatar
    Lives in Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 30-03-2023 Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 491. Received thanks 71 times, giving thanks to others 29 times.
    Having just read a bit more on the topic, the drive roller would be fine in 7075T6 with the idler in mild steel - had stainless in mind as it's what (little) I remember from the college art room... The crucial bit is that the rollers run absolutely parallel to each other (this can be tweaked via the take-up bearings) and that the running gear can withstand high pressures.

    I may well have to consider increasing the shaft diameter to a more substantial 20mm and have a closer look at using self-aligning bearings to accommodate said tweakage... This could get a bit pricey...

    Wal.

  4. #4
    Hi Wal,

    This build uses tube for the rollers

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhlSZU63S7g

    and these for the pressure adjustment

    http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalo.../Take-up-Units

    Interesting project, but not for me (too many projects stalled on the bench )

    Cheers, Rob

  5. #5
    Wal's Avatar
    Lives in Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 30-03-2023 Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 491. Received thanks 71 times, giving thanks to others 29 times.
    Cheers Rob - that clip makes it look too easy..!

    Wal.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Wal View Post
    Cheers Rob - that clip makes it look too easy..!

    Wal.
    If you made a cock-up, would you edit it out of the video - Just asking

  7. #7
    If you could find an old number plate machine you'd have no work to do, they're effectively a heavy duty mangle with geared steel rollers.
    You think that's too expensive? You're not a Model Engineer are you? :D

  8. #8
    Wal's Avatar
    Lives in Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 30-03-2023 Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 491. Received thanks 71 times, giving thanks to others 29 times.
    Or indeed a (somewhat modified) beeswax foundation roller:

    https://www.amazon.com/Beeswax-Found.../dp/B01LZE05HU

    (Chances are my grandad had one of these - long gone now..)

    Unfortunately none of this hardware's cheap - hence the DIY approach. Still won't be cheap, but it'll keep me occupied..!

    If you made a cock-up, would you edit it out of the video - Just asking
    True that, Rob. It's why my vids tend to be short and finish abruptly...

    Wal.

  9. #9
    phill05's Avatar
    Lives in Derbyshire  UK, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 22 Hours Ago Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 295. Received thanks 28 times, giving thanks to others 13 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by Wal View Post
    Hi all,


    I've started to design one and have begun collecting odds and sods that I'll be using along the way (take-up bearings, flange bearings etc.)

    One thing that's got me a bit stumped, though, is how to get my hands on a pair of live shaft stainless rollers.

    Or I could fabricate 'em from a steel pipe with a steel shaft passing through it held central by a couple of alu caps made on the mini-mill. (All probably glued up with the strongest epoxy I can find...)

    Any other ideas..?

    Wal.
    Hi Wal,

    Don't know if this could be what you need but I have a 610mm x 50mm dia with a 30mm bore through it Stainless steel rod, I also have a piece of 465mm x 32mm dia solid stainless bar which would turn down for the ends.

    All you would need then is someone with a large enough lathe to turn down the ends to fit into the tube then skim off true the tube and away you go, easy!

    Phill

  10. #10
    Wal's Avatar
    Lives in Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 30-03-2023 Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 491. Received thanks 71 times, giving thanks to others 29 times.
    Hiya Phil,

    Thanks very much for the heads-up on those materials.

    I think I'm leaning more towards the 'one-piece' solution as it'll probably end up easier communicating what it is I need doing to a shop (and will result in fewer steps for them to take to get it made). From a strength point of view: these rollers need to take around 40Kpsi - I'm guessing that by sliding the shaft through the middle like that you'd be talking about a fairly substantial non-slip interference fit along the length of the roller - not sure what kind of stresses that would introduce and how they'd interact with additional stresses that the printing process will put 'em through...

    Wal.

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