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  1. #241
    I had the same problem..I found that it was because the CPU heatsink was full of dust. It was difficult to see, and I had to take off the CPU fan to clear it (wooden stick and vacuum cleaner).but that fixed the problem for me. Can't guarantee that this is your problem, but at least it is a fairly easy thing to check and the fix does not cost a lot!

  2. #242
    My thought is that it is thermal shutdown of the CPU. If it isn't dust in the CPU cooler, check that the fan and heatsink are properly attached, I have known certain designs of heatsink mount to fatigue and break with time.

    Cheers,

    Rob-T
    A DEAD (in a ditch) STATESMAN
    I could not dig: I dared not rob:
    Therefore I lied to please the mob.
    Now all my lies are proved untrue
    And I must face the men I slew.
    What tale shall serve me here among
    Mine angry and defrauded young?
    from EPITAPHS OF BREXIT 2016 - ????

    Thanks to ― Rudyard Kipling 1865 - 1936

  3. #243
    Ok. Thank you.

  4. #244
    Strange that. Hope you get it sorted.
    I have issues with CMOS on startup with mine if I switch the power off completely at the plug.
    Mines down to the BIOS battery I reckon. Those watch style batteries they use don't fair well in the winter when in the garage. Go totally flat.
    Same goes with some of my measuring stuff, I now keep those boxed in the house.

  5. #245
    The way to clean a dusty PC is with the cover off using a vacuum and paintbrush, not with an airline.
    You think that's too expensive? You're not a Model Engineer are you? :D

  6. #246
    Ok dasp1976. After the CPU I'll check the battery.
    magicniner. Thanks for pointing out the correct way to clean a pc. I'll skip the computer next time I use the airline. I'm not sure I am strong enough to get rid of my air compressor addiction though, as it is my favorite "broom". Don't know why, but it is soooo satisfying to use.

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to Radu_Andrei For This Useful Post:


  8. #247
    Hi.
    Regarding the random shut down of the pc, it was not the cpu or the Bios battery, nor the ram memory as I suspected, but the ssd drive and the power supply. Only after replacing both, it worked again.
    And yet, after 4 consecutive carvings (apx 6 hours each) done without any kind of problem, on carving number five and six, I've got 2 strange errors.

    First error is something that occured once in the past, but went away by its own, and that is that at some point during the finishing cut (ballnose), the z axis goes apx 5mm up (most of the time) or down and continues to cut the rest of the code. If it is up, I can come back to that point and redo the cut and fix it, but if it is down, it just ruins the whole thing. If I remember right, Rob mentioned a lose wire to be a potential cause for these, but I checked all wiring and it is all good. Besides, running the same gcode one more time, it works without this error. Seems more like a mach 3 error, maybe some noise from a misterious source.

    Second error is that sometimes, the roughing cut does not fit the finishing cut. Like the first cut, took away to much material in some places. These seemed to get fixed by doing the project again or even as simple as recalculating the toolpath in artcam. Seems an artcam error but I am not sure. Maybe someone knows better.

    The only things that changed to the machine is that I finaly figured out how to control the spindle speed via mach3 (pwm). It control the speed fine but when I turn on the whole thing, a relay on the bob goes on and off, like a clock, and this translates as a small rotation of the spindle each time it clicks. Moving the cnc via the pc keyboard when this clicking is on, cause small stalls on all axis. Pressing reset a few times in mach 3 seems to stop the clicking and then everything works great.
    It can work without error for many hours or days, and then at some point, while running, I can hear the cnc changing its sound, and moving the z axis 5 mm above and continues to cut. Going back a few hundred or thousand lines and runing again the gcode, it works fine. It is like a temporary source of noise, but I have no clue from what causes it. I could not relate it to weather, or mains power, or time of the day, or gcode.

    The only thing that it is clear is that the relay clicking started after setting the pwm spindle speed control, but not at that exact time, a few days later.

    Like many other times in the past, I do not know what to do.

  9. #248
    Quote Originally Posted by Radu_Andrei View Post
    Hi.


    The only thing that it is clear is that the relay clicking started after setting the pwm spindle speed control, but not at that exact time, a few days later.

    Like many other times in the past, I do not know what to do.
    One thing can say on this is: Don't turn on any of your control systems until you have Mach started up and in control. This prevents any of the ancillary components like spindle and cooling firing up on booting of the PC.

  10. #249
    Co-incidentally, while I was thinking about a reply during a cut, my Z axis limit switch wire caught, pulled and broke and tripped the limits. Fortunately it was a short job and after disabling the limits, I reran the job successfully. I now have that problem to attend to.

    Your problem still sounds like an intermittent disconnect to your Z motor. I don't know what wires you used, but you need high flexibility wires which have many (32 for instance) strands in each conductor and flexible rubber insulation. Another consideration is the bend radius, which must be as large as practicable. The wires to the Z motor move around a lot more than any other stepper.

    Also look at your solder joints. Wire at these points become embrittled and any vibration or movement can fracture them. I have all the wires to my motors fixed down with P clips to eliminate movement. Bad solder joints can be notoriously difficult to spot.

    Relay clicking ? Can you give us a wiring diagram for your PWM connection? The relay can be disabled by an on board jumper, if you are not using the contacts. My PWM controller uses the BoB PWM output and Port 1 Pin 17 (Normally B axis Direction signal).
    Last edited by cropwell; 12-07-2019 at 09:07 PM.
    A DEAD (in a ditch) STATESMAN
    I could not dig: I dared not rob:
    Therefore I lied to please the mob.
    Now all my lies are proved untrue
    And I must face the men I slew.
    What tale shall serve me here among
    Mine angry and defrauded young?
    from EPITAPHS OF BREXIT 2016 - ????

    Thanks to ― Rudyard Kipling 1865 - 1936

  11. #250
    dasp1976. My habit is to turn on the pc, then mach3, then the contactor for the motors, then the key for the spindle. So, I think I am doing it as you indicate.

    cropwell. The cables I use can be found her.e https://electroshops.ro/cabluri/cabluri-ecranate/liycy/, I used 3x0.75mm for limits, 4x1.5mm for motors, and 4x2.5mm for spindle all shielded. There is no soldering, just terminal blocks. No screw has come loose. I checked. I would consider the disconnect option, if it was not accompanied by a strage sound in motors, while the error occurs. Also, a cable would cause a persistent problem, in my humble opinion.

    I think the relay that is clicking is the one that goes on in order to start the spindle. Here is what I did https://rawcnc.com/how-to-control-sp...other-inverter. My settings are the same with the only difference that I set the PWMBase Freq to 100 instead of 1000.

    Finished another carving today, without any kind of problem., but I cannot trust this machine yet, and I am reluctant taking any large orders from customers as I am never sure what hapens next and if I can deliver in time.

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