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  1. #81
    Sure Andrei, I have this feeling that the problem is a poor earth connection outside the house. If you get a voltage on the earth wire when it rains, then that would give you a 'tingle'. Putting an earth rod in would sort that out I am sure, but whether it should be connected to your supply earth in your case is something I would take advice on as there may be a problem with leakage currents.

    I have a feeling that this earthing problem is the root of the strange behavior of your CNC machine as instead of putting an electromagnetic calm around your equipment, it would be doing just the opposite.

    I appreciate the legacy of communism will be slow to remove, but at least progress is being made.

  2. #82
    Ok. Will do. Thank you.

  3. #83
    the earthing problem explains a lot

    if your utility supplier will not fix the problem then
    replacing the faulty earth connection with an earth spike
    will convert your supply to a TT system and be safer than what you have now

    Click image for larger version. 

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    John

  4. #84
    Ok. Thank you.

  5. #85
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    A few pics with the house to pole supply connection, the main fuse box outside the property from which I get electricity into my workshop.
    A big high tension structure which is situated on my property, quite close to the workshop.
    It has a lightning protection thing included. Although, I have now and then some fluctuation in the supply, as some light bulbs are blinking/dimming, I never had any appliance broken or anything like that.
    Also have a cctv camera in the workshop, a few meters away from the cnc. It does not seem to be affected by the cnc. I don.t know the other way around and might be a different story when I.ll wire the vfd.
    There is also the metal control box, with some terminals in the left side, put there only because the terminals on the drivers, due to so much troubleshoot and rewiring seemed to go weak, and so any future fixing, will be done on this new ones.

    And here.s a test video for some movement.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hiXk...ature=youtu.be
    It was a lot jerkier a month ago. Not sure how good it is now, though, as all the articles I read say to tune the motors and speeds until they sound good, and honestly I have no idea what this good sound, sounds like.
    The settings in motor turning are 800 rev, 600 vel, 50 acc. At this speed, the y axis which is very heavy, seems to shake just a little at an abrupt stop. The other two, could be set to go faster, but as Clive says, one thing at a time.

    What do you think?

  6. #86
    Clive S's Avatar
    Lives in Marple Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 32 Minutes Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 3,333. Received thanks 618 times, giving thanks to others 78 times. Made a monetary donation to the upkeep of the community. Is a beta tester for Machinists Network features.
    The settings in motor turning are 800 rev, 600 vel, 50 acc. At this speed, the y axis which is very heavy, seems to shake just a little at an abrupt stop. The other two, could be set to go faster
    Well it looks like you are getting there. Its always nice to see another machine come to life.

    Now when you command the machine to move say 200mm does it move exactly 200mm or something different.

    Try putting G1 X100 f300 into the MDI and press enter. The X axis should move 100mm

    Re the earth rod For a test you could just knock a metre long metal rod into the ground and connect it to the incoming mains ground. If it works then get a copper coated rod.
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  7. #87
    Ok. I.ll try the gcode and come back with a result.
    Do you think it will work with a larger diameter copper pipe like those used for plumbing/heating? The soil is quite soft here, so driving it a meter into the ground would not be a problem.

  8. #88
    Quote Originally Posted by Radu_Andrei View Post
    Ok. I.ll try the gcode and come back with a result.
    Do you think it will work with a larger diameter copper pipe like those used for plumbing/heating? The soil is quite soft here, so driving it a meter into the ground would not be a problem.
    that should be fine - the longer length you can drive in the better unless you hit a drain You could then fill the pipe with water to make a good earth (not a joke!).
    Last edited by cropwell; 14-08-2018 at 08:28 PM.

  9. #89
    Clive S's Avatar
    Lives in Marple Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 32 Minutes Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 3,333. Received thanks 618 times, giving thanks to others 78 times. Made a monetary donation to the upkeep of the community. Is a beta tester for Machinists Network features.
    Quote Originally Posted by Radu_Andrei View Post
    Ok. I.ll try the gcode and come back with a result.
    Do you think it will work with a larger diameter copper pipe like those used for plumbing/heating? The soil is quite soft here, so driving it a meter into the ground would not be a problem.
    As Rob has said.
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  10. #90
    Here we get easily -20 degrees celsius in the winter, so drains are quite a steep angle, and I doubt there.s any water in there. I could solder a cap on the copper pipe and fill it with water. The issue is that I can drive it very deep outside the workshop, but the upper 20-30 cm of the water filled pipe will freeze along with the ground, and probably crack, so goodbye water, and the second option is to drive it beneath my workshop where I have a rudimentary form of what you call a cellar in the Uk, and it.s freeze proof, but I doubt I.ll manage to drive it more than 50 cm, as beneath 2 meters, the soils become quite rocky.

    Now about the g code, putting g1 x100 f300 into mdi, moves the axis 50 cm.
    All ballscrews are 5mm pitch, and the toothed pulleys on the Z are at a ratio of 2:1, 20 teeth for the stepper and 40 for the screw, so I.m sure I.ll have to mention this somewhere in mach3.
    Although the steppers do not make a uniform sound all the time and have small hickups now and then, running the x axis 20 cm to the right, and then returning it to where is was, measured with a dial indicator, is dead accurate.

    Rob mentioned an earth spike. I can find locally steel and zinc ones, and copper coated just online. I don.t mind buying a spike, it.s just that I already have some copper pipe.

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