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  1. #181
    I intend to put a UPS box on my CNC computer but not the controller. That way, if I have a power outage, I will have the controller return an estop and I will have a few minutes to note the Gcode position. You will also need to use machine coordinates and work offsets to reposition accurately.

    I have also got a UPS for my 3D printer as a power glitch can ruin a print.

    Where I live there is a tendency for short outages in windy weather.
    Albert Einstein may have been a genius, but his brother Frank, was a monster

    Having just moved to Windows 10 (which is crap) My stress levels are through the roof !!!

  2. #182
    Same tendency here. Got it.
    UPS backup box for pc and a relay switch on the wire that goes to the estop.
    Brilliant idea. Thank you. :)

  3. #183
    Quote Originally Posted by Radu_Andrei View Post
    UPS backup box for pc and a relay switch on the wire that goes to the estop.
    I don't need a relay, without power my controller box gives an estop signal anyway.

    Here is a pic of the control panel for my office :-
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by cropwell; 06-10-2018 at 08:51 PM.
    Albert Einstein may have been a genius, but his brother Frank, was a monster

    Having just moved to Windows 10 (which is crap) My stress levels are through the roof !!!

  4. #184
    That is a beautiful panel, although I don.t understand most of it.
    Without power, my entire workshop...just dies. My only friend is nostalgy, if I want to use hand tools. :)

  5. #185
    Hi.
    I.m getting there with the mach3 reading, and also I did a few small carvings to test some speeds and feeds. All goes well so far.
    What I.m not sure about, and the opinions are diverse, is: Do I need any lubricant for the ballscrews?
    There are people who say it is not a must. Others say it is. Some say to spray it. Some to put in inside the nut. I.m a bit confused, and the book does not seem to cover this topic.

  6. #186
    Quote Originally Posted by Radu_Andrei View Post
    Hi.
    I.m getting there with the mach3 reading, and also I did a few small carvings to test some speeds and feeds. All goes well so far.
    What I.m not sure about, and the opinions are diverse, is: Do I need any lubricant for the ballscrews?
    There are people who say it is not a must. Others say it is. Some say to spray it. Some to put in inside the nut. I.m a bit confused, and the book does not seem to cover this topic.
    I would say yes, especially if they're bearing ones.
    I use 68 oil and brush it on the screw at the moment.

    Plan for the next is to fit some elbows/tubing, run the tube to some zerk (grease point) fittings at the machine base so I can just pump grease straight in the nut from there.
    That's until I get my oiler/manifolds built/set up.

  7. #187
    Does this oil or grease remains dry to the touch after you apply it?
    I mean oil and grease, in the form I know them, mixed with fine sawdust equals gunk. Probably for people with cleaner work spaces will work just fine.
    Some online discussions suggest an aerosol lube, but they seem to dissagree a lot. I mean from 20 posts you get 20 different opinions and products. And no mention the how often do you have to apply whatever you apply.

  8. #188
    Quote Originally Posted by Radu_Andrei View Post
    Does this oil or grease remains dry to the touch after you apply it?
    I mean oil and grease, in the form I know them, mixed with fine sawdust equals gunk. Probably for people with cleaner work spaces will work just fine.
    Some online discussions suggest an aerosol lube, but they seem to dissagree a lot. I mean from 20 posts you get 20 different opinions and products. And no mention the how often do you have to apply whatever you apply.

    Oh. Working with wood on a router. I was talking metalwork.
    Anyway.
    For a fairly dusty/dirty environment:
    We would use GT85 Teflon spray from Halfords on the linear rails/screws and nuts on the automated machines at work.
    Leaves them with a slippery film which repelled any dust/dirt and seemed to work well.

  9. #189
    Ok. Thank you.

  10. #190
    Hi. Long time no see.
    I.ve only managed to work a couple of days with the cnc in the last 3 weeks, and tested endmill, ballmills, speed, feeds, hardwood, softwood, with and against the grain and so on.
    I.m mesmerized by it. :) A lot of fun and a lot to learn. In the end I fould the speed limit for x at 118ipm, and for y at 86ipm. (not bad for a 220 pounds gantry). They can go a bit faster, but I do not like the sound. It.s a bit low with a 17-18000rpm spindle (can.t go lower for long as it is air cooled). Still it seems to be enough to avoid heat or burns. Keeping the stepdown to apx 60% percent of tool diameter seems to work like a charm with all woods.

    I bought a pack of stl files from ebay, and they seem great for most decorative jobs, except frames. There are lots of projects which have the frames included in the whole relief, and even if I.m not a fan of it, it looks fine in the end, BUT I also got a few frame designs on their own, and they do not have any joints. I guess it.s fine for mdf, but for solid wood, I wood very much prefer to cut 4 different parts from one piece of wood, alligned one next to another and also cut the 45 angles for each segment.

    Reading a bit about this issue online, I found Autodesh Meshmixer (free) and gave it a try. Does not seem very hard to learn, but still need to study a bit.

    But as everything with this project, asking here seems to save A LOT!!! of time. So the question is: What software do you use for editing (modifying) STL files?

    For example I attached 2 files, with a separate frame and a relief with a frame included. I would like to remove the included frame first, and then cut the separate frame in 4 mitered parts so i can join and attach later. Also because I want it from another type of wood. How would you do it?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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