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  1. #41
    Quote Originally Posted by Snapper View Post
    Every chinese spindle I have seen actually has a 4 pin plug on top so you can hook that up on the bottom to a bolt inside the spindle housing (under the cap) and then if you get a 4 core CY cable for your spindle you can run your earth with that, which is the best and tidiest way to do it imo. For a quick fix for now just take any bolt out of the frame (away from the cutting area and any moving parts) and get a piece of cable, crimp a ring terminal on the end of it and bolt it down to the frame, connect the other end to earth. That 'may' help your problems a bit short term, but shielding that spindle cable is going to be of more help. VFD emits a lot of EMI, and doesn't play nicely with USB or other low voltage electrics.

    Your problem could also be mechanical, misalignment somewhere or something, or even a weak PSU that is struggling to drive 2 axes properly simultaneously. The power supplies they send out with these things really are a pile of crap (mine ended up setting on fire )
    Thanks mate, so run the earth into the control box and connect to an earth point there?

    Can I use hdmi for the spindle? I have a thicker rca shielded somewhere. I presume most of it is just signal wires?

    Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk

  2. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by Chaz View Post
    What is the highest speed your spindle can rotate at?
    Man this thread is getting confusing! LOL!

    I don't know how fast it can go. I will have a look at see what it actually tops out at.

    It's a Schneider altivar 12 VFC with a water cooled 2kw spindle.

  3. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by Snapper View Post
    Noooo. Don't cut the bed.

    Get a board, sheet of ali, whatever you want to use and stick it on top. The bed is made of several independent pieces of extrusion and even if you machine it 'flat' they will flex independently anyway. Also you're then tied in to the cutting area, you can't really load a bigger piece in and clamp it outside the work area.
    Not on my machine. The bed is actually a big thick slab of cast iron, onto which is bolted an ali plate, which is drilled and tapped for tooling. It's basically sacrificial. As this is used machine, the plate had a few cuts in it and after transit and moving ect, it needed leveling.

  4. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard View Post
    Man this thread is getting confusing! LOL!

    I don't know how fast it can go. I will have a look at see what it actually tops out at.

    It's a Schneider altivar 12 VFC with a water cooled 2kw spindle.
    Yes sorry richy I somehow derailed and hijacked your thread.

    Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk

  5. #45
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave_stoke View Post
    Thanks mate, so run the earth into the control box and connect to an earth point there?

    Can I use hdmi for the spindle? I have a thicker rca shielded somewhere. I presume most of it is just signal wires?

    Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk
    No. It's a 3ph motor in there so what you should have currently is just the 3 U V W power wires. I can't remember off the top of my head what the optimal core diameter is for the cable but depending what power spindle you have it isn't hard to figure out the max current and find out on google.

    Quote Originally Posted by Richard View Post
    Not on my machine. The bed is actually a big thick slab of cast iron, onto which is bolted an ali plate, which is drilled and tapped for tooling. It's basically sacrificial. As this is used machine, the plate had a few cuts in it and after transit and moving ect, it needed leveling.
    Ah, I see. Very nice. Likelihood is it's a cast 5 series aluminium. In which case try drop your RPM by 20%. Have to feed a bit harder in that stuff.

  6. #46
    Quote Originally Posted by Snapper View Post
    No. It's a 3ph motor in there so what you should have currently is just the 3 U V W power wires. I can't remember off the top of my head what the optimal core diameter is for the cable but depending what power spindle you have it isn't hard to figure out the max current and find out on google.



    Ah, I see. Very nice. Likelihood is it's a cast 5 series aluminium. In which case try drop your RPM by 20%. Have to feed a bit harder in that stuff.
    It's 800w the spindle. So I need initially a shielded cable capable of 1500w

    Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk

  7. #47
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard View Post
    Man this thread is getting confusing! LOL!

    I don't know how fast it can go. I will have a look at see what it actually tops out at.

    It's a Schneider altivar 12 VFC with a water cooled 2kw spindle.

    I just tried 20k rpm. VFD says 326hz and spindle was going at 19600rpm.


    This is what the bed looks like and what the finish was initially and after the tool degraded.
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  8. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave_stoke View Post
    It's 800w the spindle. So I need initially a shielded cable capable of 1500w

    Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk
    No, it's 800w @ 220v over 3 phases so, roughly 270 watts per phase or about 1.25 amps. Maybe you could get away with repurposing some sort of signal cable... but I wouldn't personally. Get a proper flexible copper braided cable and do it properly.

  9. #49
    Quote Originally Posted by Snapper View Post
    No, it's 800w @ 220v over 3 phases so, roughly 270 watts per phase or about 1.25 amps. Maybe you could get away with repurposing some sort of signal cable... but I wouldn't personally. Get a proper flexible copper braided cable and do it properly.
    OK being an ex mechanic and a crafty bugger, I have shielded the original spindle cable and run it separately from the rest. I have also earthed all bodies.

    Let's see how it fairs. Its running a program now its always struggled with. Lego block lol.

    Anyway after reading and thinking about what you said it dawned on me. Yes before I was running spindle speeds above 5000 rpm there wasn't much current so little interference, since its been running upto and beyond 15000 rpm that's when it started going haywire.

    Let's see if my DIY shielding worked



    Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk

  10. #50
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 3 Days Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 2,908. Received thanks 360 times, giving thanks to others 8 times.
    If you've only been taking a light surface cut, then the wear on that cutter would be as expected, especially if chip clearance has been poor along with no lubrication.

    If chips start getting re-cut (I.e. not cleared from the cutter), then in soft materials they will start welding to the cutter. As soon as that happens, your nice sharp edge is now covered by a blunt layer of material, and the problem will compound from there as heat builds up at an ever increasing rate, until something finally fails.

    I never realised you were machining aluminium with that cutter (I'd assumed you were still working with brass), but in aluminium you want polished cutters so there is as little roughness as possible on the cutter to avoid chips sticking (coated cutters are often rougher, but in aluminium coatings make little difference, which is why uncoated polished is usually preferred). You also want a bit lubrication to help stop things sticking. Lubrication can vary from an occasional spray of WD40, to mist, to full flood coolant.

    On something like that bed surfacing job, a light spray of WD40 across the part at the start along with just enough air to clear chips would be more than ample to keep things running smoothly.
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

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