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  1. #21
    so the handle will be metal/wood lather operation.

    the channel/bracket and the roller - all metal. no plastics.

    the approximate pressure and use will be similar to that of the wallpapaer seam roller.

    and lastly - if i can resolve this issue in the design and move forward - the goal will several hundred units at first. if i can market it well and proves successful - then definitely a few thousand thereafter.



    also - i am living in iceland and it'll be costly to manufacture here. i am beginning to source out manufacturers throughout europe and states. i need to start some cost estimates

    do you have recommendations for any machine shops to contact?

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  3. #22
    Maybe a domed starlock washer, which would push onto a solid shaft, would fit your requirements.
    Last edited by cropwell; 12-04-2019 at 11:39 AM.
    Mark Twain said that no amount of evidence will convince an idiot.!

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  5. #23
    this looks impressive. i guess my only concern would be - if you accidentally dropped the tool, say onto the floor and the floor met the roller - would these things just pop right off?

    if not, then these might actually do!

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  7. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by cropwell View Post
    Maybe a domed starlock washer, which would push onto a solid shaft, would fit your requirements.
    but wait - the solid shaft needs to adhere to the channel - no motion - only the roller opertates.

    that's where the drive screws came into the conversation.

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  9. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by JEK5019 View Post
    this looks impressive. i guess my only concern would be - if you accidentally dropped the tool, say onto the floor and the floor met the roller - would these things just pop right off?

    if not, then these might actually do!
    In my experience you have to destroy them to remove them. If you want the shaft to be fixed solid then your solution lies elsewhere.
    Mark Twain said that no amount of evidence will convince an idiot.!

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  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by JEK5019 View Post
    thanks magicniner. i guess it is a matter of experiment - much appreciated.

    i'm currently using mcmaster as a source for stock items (as it allows me to drop in the actual 3d product into fusion 360 - enabling the design) however, their tube selection seems rather marginal.

    do you have recommendations for manufacturers for smaller sized metal tubes?
    For prototyping buy 1m to 3m lengths of tube with a slightly smaller hole than you think you need. Cut to length yourself with a hacksaw, holding the tube in a vice, use masking tape to mark the length, wrapping tape around it makes it easy to mark a straight 90 degree cut, cut slightly over length and file to size.
    You can use a hand drill to open the hole up if required, once you have a definite set of dimensions ask for quotes from machine shops in your country, you're into a minimum 1000 parts so it's viable for professionals to quote.
    Avoid getting too caught up in being able to download part models to build your product in CAD, model the tube yourself and have it made once you've prototyped it and have working dimensions.
    You think that's too expensive? You're not a Model Engineer are you? :D

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  13. #27
    Last edited by magicniner; 13-04-2019 at 10:51 AM.
    You think that's too expensive? You're not a Model Engineer are you? :D

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  15. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by hanermo2 View Post
    A peen, aka pin punch on one corner of the flat blue bolt flat area will mostly lock it in place.
    This can be done in an inside-supporting fixture, think fork, avoiding distorting the U shaped hold.

    Any industrial epoxy will fix the blue bolt, depending on load and the size of the end plate surface area.

    A fast small drill through the holding bolt edge (blue), and a pin, punched, would also work.
    So would e.g. blind pop rivets.

    Press-fit barrels would definitely work.
    Both for holding them, and the ends pressed in.
    They need precise holes for press-fit purposes.
    Think reamed to 0.01 mm in D, more or less.

    Typical std reamer accuracy (0.01 mm in smallish D), easy to do, cheap, fast.

    Custom barrels are probably much cheaper than anything like that from mcmaster in qty 3000 units.

    Typically, mcmaster/misumi/etc cost 1-2-3$ for engineered units of any precision.
    Industrial epoxy will likely cost 1$/unit, +/-, in small quantities.
    Total 4$, or so, qty 3k total.
    Plus lots of work in assy, several $ each. You cannot assemble 60 per hour.

    You could get 3000 units of barrels and fitments and an assy jig (pop/rivet/pin) made by any jobshop for around 10k$.
    And maybe a drill-jig to make the forks yourself.
    i totally missed this post - terribly sorry about that!

    very invaluable information here on the process. additionally, if you don't mind - i would like to contact you via message.

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