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18-07-2019 #21
Hi Chrono
It seems I have messed up my explanation here. I do not plan on using four rails, but instead three. Two linear HIWIN-style rails on one side, mounted atop each other. The other side only has one rail, and a different type, namely the cylindrical Igus-Style rails that you also often find in 3D printers, like the Prusa MK3. That will still take some work aligning, I get that, but it should technically work to help let the machine compensate. I know, technically is a nice word, but practically often takes precedent :D I have added another picture, with the HIWIN rails in their place, to hopefully make that more clear.
Now with your explanation of the gantry driven from one side only (above)......it's getting worse!
Don't forget that to reduce cutter breakage, wear, chipping, improve accuracy and surface finish, the whole machine must be as rigid as possible and subject to as little resonance and vibration as possible. This is why machines traditionally are made in cast iron or synthetic granite (Granitan etc) that are "dead" materials, they don't "ring".
In the latest design, you are driving the gantry from one end only (and I still can't understand what the benefit is of the lower ballscrew). This goes against evrything that you will read on this forum, "ballance your forces", " place the cutter forces in between the bearings" etc. It is akin to digging a hole in the garden whilst standing on a diving springboard!
And the 6mm thick gantry sideplate.......
Compare yours
with this from Boyan.
Yup, Boyan's is built like a brick sh!thouse. Some may say that it's over the top, but I bet it does the job!
Or just taks a look at Andy's build
http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/11552...-2x1-0m-Gantry
Sorry if I seem somewhat hard on you but I don't want you to waste time and money unnecessarily.
Any other of you forum guys have a comment?
Good luck Chrono, you'll get there.
Martin
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