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  1. #21
    There is software out there that will probe the surface of your uncut PCB (obviously with the aid of a suitable probe mounted on the Z axis) and then modify the G-code to make the tool follow the measured undulations. I think this is the sort of refinement that might be needed for SMD boards , though a machined flat base and double-sided tape is more my kind of technology.

    I have enough unfinished projects at the moment so a new way of making one or two circuit boards per year is going to stay firmly OFF the ToDo list for now.

    Kit
    An optimist says the glass is half full, a pessimist says the glass is half empty, an engineer says you're using the wrong sized glass.

  2. #22
    I used a Roland engraving spindle with a surface following nose on a sprung carrier for micrometer adjustable fixed depth engraving on uneven surfaces.
    The engraving spindle was belt driven from the main spindle and gives 30000rpm from a 5000rpm main spindle speed.
    I need to build a new unit for my new CNC though as I sold the high speed spindle arrangement with the old mill.
    You think that's too expensive? You're not a Model Engineer are you? :D

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Kitwn View Post
    More seriously, I've recently changed from using Eagle, where I never quite mastered the libraries and creating new footprints for the PCB, to DipTrace which is a bit easier to use and does have a free-for-non-commercial-use version if you look carefully enough at the website. I've only made one board with it so far but I like it so far.
    Kit
    I tried out Dip Trace last night after getting nowhere with KiCAD. Within an hour or so I had learned enough to create a schematic
    Click image for larger version. 

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    and this morning create the Gerber and drill files to manipulate with CopperCAM to give me the Gcode to make the board.

    All I need now is the machine back together to cut the board.

    Cheers,

    Rob-T

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by cropwell View Post
    Within an hour or so I had learned enough to create a schematic...... and this morning create the Gerber and drill files to manipulate with CopperCAM to give me the Gcode to make the board.
    Blimey Rob, you're clever! Are you going to write a tutorial?

    Kit
    An optimist says the glass is half full, a pessimist says the glass is half empty, an engineer says you're using the wrong sized glass.

  5. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by Kitwn View Post
    Blimey Rob, you're clever! Are you going to write a tutorial?

    Kit
    It is not down to clever - Dip Trace is quite easy and there are online tutorials. So for me it was 'Monkey see, Monkey do'. Once I got to the Gerbers then CopperCAM did the conversion to dxf and then Estlcam to Gcode.

    Do you really live in Exmouth on the North West Cape ?

    Cheers,
    Rob-T
    btw I am fed up with the hot weather, I am having to empty the water bucket on the air conditioner (in my office) every day at the moment.

  6. #26
    Rob,
    I found DipTrace quite easy to use as well. I've never got into gerber files for drilling etc. but that would be a sensible thing to learn about even if I still use the toner-transfer method for making the boards, it would be nice to print some registration marks and have the CNC router drill the holes in exactly the right places. I need to make a new board for my GPS/crystal locked wooden clock so that might be something to experiment with.

    I do indeed live on the cape in Exmouth. We're a bit remote up here. It's the same distance from here to Perth, the state capital, as from Land's End to John'O'Groats but there's only two sets of traffic lights in the first 13 hours driving.

    It's really funny watching pommies complaining about the heat. We're enjoying similar temperatures as part of our nice, cool winter here, though we have had a bit of rain in among the clear blue skies and daily maxima of a comfortable 26-28 degrees. We've even had to put the duvet on the bed this month! For most of the year the overnight low is over 20C. I always tell people that January here is like January in England...Everybody hides indoors and burns tons of electricity to change the temperature. We had weeks on end of well over 40 earlier in the year which is really draining, I sooooooo enjoyed a trip back to Blighty in February when I could enjoy walking around london in sunshine and 16 degrees. I wore long trousers, shoes with socks in, a nice shirt that wasn't soaking wet and even a blazer with pockets for my phone and wallet! Air-con is essential here both in the house and the car, I doubt you can buy a car in Australia without it now and every building is cooled, including my shed.

    Kit
    An optimist says the glass is half full, a pessimist says the glass is half empty, an engineer says you're using the wrong sized glass.

  7. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Kitwn View Post
    Eeeeee lad, I remember those days! The Maplin catalogue and sending off hand filled in order forms by post, Practical Wireless, The Radio Constructor and Veroboard. In those days I drew brain-designed PCB layouts on 0.1 inch graph paper and then transferred the holes to copper board with a pin and drew in the traces using what Maplin sold as a special PCB resist pen but was actually a bog standard permanent marker, just three times the price. I even had my own personalised call sign, G0KIT. Nostalgia's not what it used to be!
    Elektor was my favourite.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kitwn View Post
    More seriously, I've recently changed from using Eagle, where I never quite mastered the libraries and creating new footprints for the PCB, to DipTrace which is a bit easier to use and does have a free-for-non-commercial-use version if you look carefully enough at the website. I've only made one board with it so far but I like it so far.
    You should try EasyEDA. It is very simple to create new parts, edit the millions of available ones or create/change footprints. The only thing I am missing is auto placing the parts when creating PCB.

  8. #28
    I've been looking at getting some suitable cutters to have a go at this myself - had a project or two in mind that haven't been started because I haven't decided how to make the PCBs. With auto-levelling software available, though, CNC machining looks viable with my machine.

    I'm a bit confused about cutter choice, though. I see "PCB drill/mill" listed on eBay (although they look like milling cutters to me), or V-bit engraving cutters. Cropwell mentions using both, and then there's a wide range of diameters. Could someone recommend a good starting point for making, say, a PCB suitable for 0.1 pin spacing DIL packages (no SMD!)?

  9. #29
    My own experience, 0.3mm end mills have much better performance than v cutters, but then my v cutters were cheap Chinese jobs. The V cutters always seemed to tear at the copper a lot more than end mill, but I was trying to get to small geometry tracks (12 thoa, etc)

    I think much of my frustration was developed early on with the Marchand Dice machine. Maybe I need to give my starmill more of a role than drilling uv etched boards. Pretty much any board I make now though is just for debugging before I throw $5 into dirtypcb for them to professionally make 10-off (and me wait 8 weeks)
    Last edited by Doddy; 05-08-2019 at 09:46 AM.

  10. #30
    Oh, any pcb endmill with a cutter length more than 2mm isn’t going to last longer than a pingfuckit

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