Troubleshooting non responsive machine- Mach3/Syil x4

[IhateDoug]

Let's test that the inputs into the parallel port are being read correctly by Mach3.

Use a jumper to short from pin 25 (GND) to pin 10 - on the PC's parallel port...

Attachment 26297

On the diagnostic page...

Attachment 26298

Move to 25->11

Attachment 26299

25->12:-

Attachment 26300

25->13:-

Attachment 26301

25->15 (NOTE: skip 14 - that's an output!, not input):-

Attachment 26302

Confirm that behaviour then we're confident that the parallel port inputs are able to be monitored by Mach3.

Normal


10


11


12


13


15



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[IhateDoug]

If that works, short the X-DIR pin to one of the inputs, for example I shorted 17 to 13...

Attachment 26303

Now, by using the cursor left/right and verifying the change in the "X Pos" on the diagnostic screen, I can toggle the state of the pin 13 LED. This verifies that the Mach3 X-Axis Direction output can be set correctly by Mach3. Note, I'm ignoring the X-Step signal because this is a very short duration pulse that won't be shown on the LED status on the diagnostic page.

Ignoring the Step signal - which is critical to this, but noting the difficulty in measuring it. If the X-DIR signal and X-Step signal work then the X-Axis of the machine when plugged in should work and should be under user control with the Cursor Keys. If not, then we move to the Syil.

The ‘m2Home’ led turns on and off


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[Doddy]

Right. I'm reasonably happy that the PC/Mach3/Parallel Port is working at least in part. Of interest, we know that all the inputs are working and at least the X-DIR output.

With the machine connected, earlier, you suggested (or I've interpreted) that the E-STOP control had no effect on Mach3. Is this still the case? (check all wiring is present to the BOB and that the supplies are on). Remember, the E-Stop is a latching switch - typically you press to actuate and have to twist to release (apologies if this is teaching you to suck eggs). By pressing/releasing the E-Stop before I understood that there was no controlled setting of the E-Stop signal within Mach3, and that the signal was stuck either ON or OFF, depending on the active low/high setting within Mach3?

Also, from previous results presented here, you say that the E-Stop control results in the change in state on pin 11 on the Syil DB25 connector alternating from 0V to 1V. In any logic system from 3.3V upwards, that's all logic '0' level.

From previous results presented here, you say that measuring the E-Stop control INPUT to the breakout board switches between 0V and 12V depending upon the switch position. So the control works.

There's one conclusion from this - the BOB is not behaving as expected. The signal path from the E-STOP input (from the switch) to the corresponding E-STOP output (to the PC) is not operating as expected. We're now down to checking that the power to the BOB is correct (and you've confirmed that the LEDs LED1/LED2 are illuminated - which makes me believe the power is on the board). What remains is any ancillary controls peculiar to this board or that the board is defective. Or I've missed something.

I'm going to have a ponder (aka wife's demanding lunch).

[Doddy]

Now I'm confused. Have a look at the electrical schematic here (Syil X4)

https://www.peu.net/syil/X4_User_Manual.pdf

If the schematic is to be believed, the E-Stop button will only isolate the power to the BOB when active, with the E-Stop input to the BOB wired to ground. Is this true of the actual machine wiring? (I think the OP suggested otherwise).

[IhateDoug]

Now I'm confused. Have a look at the electrical schematic here (Syil X4)

https://www.peu.net/syil/X4_User_Manual.pdf

If the schematic is to be believed, the E-Stop button will only isolate the power to the BOB when active, with the E-Stop input to the BOB wired to ground. Is this true of the actual machine wiring? (I think the OP suggested otherwise).

I’m not sure if this is anything but yes the estop is wired directly to the bob - however
There are 2 wires that run from the bob to estop -half way along they are inserted into a ‘plug’ then continue onto the estop.
The plug is male and there is its female companion vacant nearby on another board - is this a coincidence or should it be plugged in?



So white and red go to bob and the red and blue go to estop button


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[JAZZCNC]

Ok just read thru this thread and the fact it was working before moving and no changes made other than new PC then logic dictates the fault is with the PC and the PP port or PP driver. It's certainly the first link in chain that needs to eliminated.
Suggest you go back to basics and start at beginning.
Also some PC's use parallel port cards that are not compatible or work on different address to what's set in mach. Some also only output 3.3v and your BOB could require 5v.

So firstly are you using the PP cable which ran the machine before.? If you have replaced the pp cable it must be a straight thru cable (null modem), pp printer cables are often not and cross over pins so cannot be used.

Next I'd delete and reinstall mach3 and the PP driver with new download using latest driver to elimimate any chance of software corruption. Write down the settings you know worked before deleting.
Re-enter settings in new mach install, don't use the old xml as it could be corrupted.

After this then you can move onto the electrical side. To be honest if not PP Issue then I'd just buy a cheap £5 BOB. This instantly tells you if old one is the issue.


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[Doddy]

As I read it, the PC replacement was after the machine was moved and failed. There's a chance something was damaged, disconnected or shorted during the move. Right now with the images I'm not convinced this isn't a FrankenSyil machine.

OP: Are you the first owner of this?

[IhateDoug]

Ok just read thru this thread and the fact it was working before moving and no changes made other than new PC then logic dictates the fault is with the PC and the PP port or PP driver. It's certainly the first link in chain that needs to eliminated.
Suggest you go back to basics and start at beginning.
Also some PC's use parallel port cards that are not compatible or work on different address to what's set in mach. Some also only output 3.3v and your BOB could require 5v.

So firstly are you using the PP cable which ran the machine before.? If you have replaced the pp cable it must be a straight thru cable (null modem), pp printer cables are often not and cross over pins so cannot be used.

Next I'd delete and reinstall mach3 and the PP driver with new download using latest driver to elimimate any chance of software corruption. Write down the settings you know worked before deleting.
Re-enter settings in new mach install, don't use the old xml as it could be corrupted.

After this then you can move onto the electrical side. To be honest if not PP Issue then I'd just buy a cheap £5 BOB. This instantly tells you if old one is the issue.


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I got the new pc as I thought it mite have been a pc issue - same problem with the original pc.

Have reinstalled Mach3 with driver - I’ll try again + entering settings not XML file.

Also just tried the original cable and no change.

I’ll order a bob now

[Doddy]

I’m not sure if this is anything but yes the estop is wired directly to the bob - however
There are 2 wires that run from the bob to estop -half way along they are inserted into a ‘plug’ then continue onto the estop.
The plug is male and there is its female companion vacant nearby on another board - is this a coincidence or should it be plugged in?



So white and red go to bob and the red and blue go to estop button


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This worries me a bit. I would NOT plug the connector into the board - from the schematic and the legends on the board I do think that the board terminal is carrying 24VAC for the E-Stop relay, plugging it in could throw 24VAC into the BOB input channels. You've already established that power is present on the BOB which means that the schematic and the E-Stop isolation of the BOB isn't effective (wired).

[IhateDoug]

As I read it, the PC replacement was after the machine was moved and failed. There's a chance something was damaged, disconnected or shorted during the move. Right now with the images I'm not convinced this isn't a FrankenSyil machine.

OP: Are you the first owner of this?

Not, I bought it second hand.

Also I just read the thread that was linked above and seems it’s not a simple task to replace the bob, they don’t make the one I have anymore ?
http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7658-...down-like-this


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