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  1. #11
    The danger with normally open switches is that a bad connection doesn't show up until your machine crashes straight through them. They must be connected in parallel. Wiring faults with normally closed switches will show up immediately. They need to be connected in series.


    Kit
    An optimist says the glass is half full, a pessimist says the glass is half empty, an engineer says you're using the wrong sized glass.

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  3. #12
    If your taking this route using separate mechanical Limits to homes then Go with NC for the Limits and wire in series using just 1 input like as been suggested.
    For the Homes, it doesn't really matter because you can set Mach3 to see trigger when goes low and you will need them on separate inputs for IP/M to see them. My pref is NO for Homes.
    Also, note You cannot wire the Home switches in series with the IP/M controller and use 1 input for all the homes like can be done with some Mach setups.

    I'm going to guess at your next question regards Proximity which will be NPN or PNP. It doesn't matter is the answer because the IP/M will allow you to use either. NPN tends to be more available than PNP, esp in NC type.

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  5. #13
    Thanks Jazz. Have just had a NPN normally closed proximity switch delivered from Amazon. Im guessing then that with this device I would set the input for it to active high? Im going to have a play with it at the weekend. I have wired a couple of steppers and drivers up to the IPM to get them moving and to get familiar with Mach and the hardware. I'l connect the proximity switch up and see how it works. The electrics and the machine haven't come together yet.

  6. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by chillybo View Post
    Thanks Jazz. Have just had a NPN normally closed proximity switch delivered from Amazon. Im guessing then that with this device I would set the input for it to active high?
    No that would be Active Low.
    Because the type is N/C Mach sees the signal all the time(High) and when signal disappears (low) the pin goes active. So it's (Active Low)
    If it was N/O type it would be the reverse. The pin is low and goes Active when the signal is High. (Active high)

    Word of caution with the IP/M and it's inputs. They are Non-isolated which means the don't tolerate being miss wired so before you go connecting anything up to them be sure you fully understand what your doing, they don't take prisoners.!

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  8. #15
    Actually, taking each home switch into separate inputs on the CSMIO isn't a big issue as it has plenty of inputs available. It also means that you can set Mach3 to home more than one axis at a time, which saves a bit of time on a larger machine. I home Z by itself (to get it to highest level above bed) and then X and Y together.

    I also use proximity switches for combined home/limits although I have wired upper and lower limits in series on each axis partly to save one input channel but also to reduce wiring through cable chains a little. You have 24V available and proximity switches in series work fine with that. Because they are also limit switches I use NC throughout for the safety reasons mentioned.

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  10. #16
    Nice one. Thanks for explaining this Jazz

  11. #17
    So before i attempt to wire a mock home proximity switch into one of the the inputs can anyone please confirm I am understanding the wiring correctly. The brown wire from the proximity switch should be wired to positive side of the 24 PSU that supplies the IPM. The blue wire is wired to the negative side of the same PSU. The black signal wire then goes into one of the inputs on the IPM for instance pin ten. Then I designate pin 10 as the home input (X in this case) and set the pin to active low as in the picture. Is this correct? Thanks in advance

    proximity switch NPN NC_compressed.pdfportnpin_compressed.pdf

  12. #18
    I can't comment on the switch wire colours without a diagram in front of me, but you do need to take a wire from the -ve pin for your chosen input to the common negative - on the IP/M both sides of the inputs are floating. In Mach3 I seem to remember that you need to select the correct port as well as pin - can't remember it offhand but I think it's either 1 or 10. It's in the manual. Also, be very careful with pin numbering - it's not quite what you might think! Mach3 input 10 is actually physical pin 11 on the CSMIO and its corresponding negative connection is pin 24. Again, this is all in the manual but it's easy to miss (don't ask me how I know, etc...)

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  14. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Neale View Post
    I can't comment on the switch wire colours without a diagram in front of me, but you do need to take a wire from the -ve pin for your chosen input to the common negative - on the IP/M both sides of the inputs are floating. In Mach3 I seem to remember that you need to select the correct port as well as pin - can't remember it offhand but I think it's either 1 or 10. It's in the manual. Also, be very careful with pin numbering - it's not quite what you might think! Mach3 input 10 is actually physical pin 11 on the CSMIO and its corresponding negative connection is pin 24. Again, this is all in the manual but it's easy to miss (don't ask me how I know, etc...)
    You are using NPN type switch so what you actually need to do is Take the Black signal wire to the (-) input and run 24v+ to the (+) input.
    The port in Mach3 is 10 and select the input number, not the Pin number because as Neale says they are numbered differently.

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  16. #20
    WiringDia_compressed.pdf Thanks Jazz and Neal. Should it be like this then?

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