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  1. #1
    Hello everyone,
    I want to order a control enclosure and I have a 800 x 600 x 300 mm size in mind for my 3 to maybe 4 axis (in the future) router. My question is will this be large enough and what sort of size enclosure do others use that have similar machines requiring similar electronics.
    Regards Chris

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by chillybo View Post
    Hello everyone,
    I want to order a control enclosure and I have a 800 x 600 x 300 mm size in mind for my 3 to maybe 4 axis (in the future) router. My question is will this be large enough and what sort of size enclosure do others use that have similar machines requiring similar electronics.
    Regards Chris
    600x600x200 0r 250 should be more than enough
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

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  4. #3
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 1 Day Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 2,908. Received thanks 360 times, giving thanks to others 8 times.
    I'd always go as big as practical!

    Best option is to find sizes of all the key parts you'd like to use, then do a quick mock-up.
    My tip would be to leave plenty room around components to run some cable trunking.
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

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  6. #4
    I used the largest old PC case I had lying around in the shed. But then I'm an incorrigible cheapskate!
    An optimist says the glass is half full, a pessimist says the glass is half empty, an engineer says you're using the wrong sized glass.

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  8. #5
    I use 500 x 600 x 200. There are 5 x DM860's and a VFD plus the other stuff :)

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  10. #6
    All good suggestions, I've just thrown one control box out that was home-made/formed from sheet steel - to the limits of my bender (90mm). That was not deep enough when I replaced my baby drivers with slightly larger drivers (TB6600s?, can't remember and not close enough to check) I wouldn't recommend any cabinet less that 200mm depth.

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  12. #7
    Neale's Avatar
    Lives in Plymouth, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 17 Hours Ago Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 1,729. Received thanks 295 times, giving thanks to others 11 times.
    I'd go along with the "it's never big enough" idea. Do a dummy layout of the bits going in there, work out what you need to house them, then go a size or two bigger. Otherwise, wiring the thing is going to be like keyhole surgery. Cable trunking as mentioned above is useful but takes more space (and I wouldn't wire another control cabinet without it) and I used a fair bit of DIN rail for mounting things along with a lot of DIN rail terminals. Also consider using crimp-on cable terminations - the little ferrule things - which are cheap enough from China and make wiring much easier and reliable with less chance of odd stray strands causing shorts.

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  14. #8
    Thanks guys, think I'm going with this one.
    https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CMSB606030.html
    Will I need some sort of backplate to mount the DIN rail onto?

  15. #9
    Neale's Avatar
    Lives in Plymouth, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 17 Hours Ago Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 1,729. Received thanks 295 times, giving thanks to others 11 times.
    Looks to me as if there is a backplate as part of the package - the "2mm galvanised steel mounting panel" item. Does make it easier to get everything fixed before bolting into the cabinet.

    Have you sorted out what you are going to do about external connectors for motors, limit switches, etc? Best if you can drill for those before getting swarf in all the electrics! Guess how I know...

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  17. #10
    Good point Neale. I followed an excellent build log you tube instalment that shows how tough the steel is to to core drill into. I will try to plan it all out beforehand.

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