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  1. #131
    I have some parts I'd eventually like to make which would involve cutting out/slotting 25mm or so deep. Would a small compressor assist at least , even if it ends up filling the tank 50% of the time, but is quiet when it does it !
    Something like https://www.lawnandpower.co.uk/produ...xoC-hwQAvD_BwE

    I'll do some experimenting soon !

  2. #132
    Doddy's Avatar
    Lives in Preston, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 9 Hours Ago Has been a member for 8-9 years. Has a total post count of 1,332. Received thanks 186 times, giving thanks to others 63 times. Referred 1 members to the community.
    I had a Peak Scientific compressor - around 25l, dentist job, silent as anything, and pretty useless for mist-cooling. With a low CFM and a small tank, it exhausted quickly, even just with a hand-help airgun where I could regulate things myself. The main problem was the low duty-cycle for the motor - after an hour cutting, and cooling, the compressor would overheat and cut-off until it cooled... that's when the WD40 would come out and smoke-out the shed.

    Here's a hint: Unfortunate, but true, there's an awful lot of pubs going to the wall. I recently found a 50l (not much bigger), but similarly silent and 100% duty cycle compressor from a clearance of a brewery that had gone down the swanny. I'm not proud of taking advantage, but 40 quid later and I'm giving the old compressor away. Keep an eye on the auctions.

  3. #133
    Been busy this week sorting out a ply threaded board, used 75mm spacing as suggested rather then 100+
    I then have a second piece of MDF on top with holes but its not glued, just bolted down at various points currently.
    The M8 bolt fixing is working pretty well, using simply bolts and washers to clamp the edge, however without gluing the MDF spoil board I can't surface it accurately which is an issue, just wondering if there is a better alternative to gluing ... screwing with slightly countersunk holes?

    So much to learn about fusion 360 CAM still - managed to make my first aluminium part! Simple pocket toolpath and cutout, but I was pretty happy with the finish, not that I have much to compare to, just it did it first time with no issues.
    Couple of sprays of WD-40 but used 17,500rpm with 1mm DOC, 6mm 2 flute end mill.

    It's a um... coaster?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    May give the Aztec calendar a go Jazz , is there any specific high quality STL file you have for fusion 360 - as a few various ones out there I've found?

    Also, does anyone have any suggestions for the best way to face a surface that fits in an ER-20 collet? I've seen flycutters etc mentioned but most are too large - any recommendations?

    Ryan

  4. Arceurotrading, chronos(ebay) rdgtools all had smaller flycutters that would fit ER20 collets, 1/2 inch shanks if I remember correctly, there are also mini fkycutters on ebay. Easy to make if you have a lathe too.

  5. #135
    Hi everyone,

    After a couple of months with minimal time to spend on the CNC, finally getting back into it. Learnt lots but still much more to learn, as is always the way..

    So one thing I hadn't fully thought out in the design is how to grease the Z bearing blocks. The nipples are in the right place (must avoid obvious jokes here..) but the grease gun "Nozzle" wont fit in the space to engage properly.

    So I'm thinking of using the side inlets - only recently realised that was possible.
    Hiwin say you should carefully pierce the side inlet with a hot metal rod to avoid chips in the bearings. Do you then have to insert a new grease nipple (can't see a thread) or is there a different type of nozzle available you can just pressure fit and fire in the grease. I can't have a permanent fixing as it would hit the side plate.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks
    Ryan

  6. #136
    I would like to know what kind of forum is this? phpbb? Guci

  7. #137
    Neale's Avatar
    Lives in Plymouth, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 19 Hours Ago Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 1,661. Received thanks 292 times, giving thanks to others 10 times.
    Take a look at the very bottom of the screen.

  8. Quote Originally Posted by CNCRY View Post
    I have some parts I'd eventually like to make which would involve cutting out/slotting 25mm or so deep. Would a small compressor assist at least , even if it ends up filling the tank 50% of the time, but is quiet when it does it !
    Something like https://www.lawnandpower.co.uk/produ...xoC-hwQAvD_BwE

    I'll do some experimenting soon !
    To boost your tank size you can use an old keg, butane or propane tank but make sure they are empty in the butane & propane bottles, best to fill them up with water then drain before use. you will need to change the valve over to a normal shutoff valve then add a T piece, one side from compressor, the other from the butane tank and the 3rd for your normal outlet. If you use quick connects you can then transport a large amount of air to where there is non, like to a tractor in the middle of a field with a flat, dont ask me how I know.
    One last thing, make sure the compressor safety cutout valves open before the tanks maximum rated pressure, with a butane or propane tank you should have no problem with a small compressor.

  9. #139
    Thanks Kered - sounds like a cost saving option, although I'm not sure I'd trust myself with self made high pressure tanks. Maybe one to add to the list to try:)
    I've been spending most of my time on wood recently so not progressed the mist coolant plan at all as yet!
    Top of my list for improvements/purchases now are

    - handheld wireless controller for UCCNC (as sticking the laptop on the bandsaw table while I set part zero isn't ideal)
    - Improve the table/spoilboard combination.

    Currently I have a sheet of 12mm ply on top of the base's cross pieces which is drilled and inserted T nuts. Problem is sometimes they drop out the bottom as the bolt knocks them out when trying to fix something , which is a pain. Plus 12mm ply isn't the most stable material.

    Current options - either some aluminum T-slot, steel t-slot , pre drilled and tapped steel grid plate or buy a sheet of aluminum then surface and use the machine to "drill" a grid of holes.
    I don't have much Z height so needs to be <20mm maximum.

    Anyone tried these or have any comments?

    Thanks!

  10. #140
    JAZZCNC's Avatar
    Lives in wakefield, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 11 Hours Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 8,413. Received thanks 1,442 times, giving thanks to others 108 times. Referred 1 members to the community.
    Quote Originally Posted by CNCRY View Post
    Top of my list for improvements/purchases now are

    - handheld wireless controller for UCCNC (as sticking the laptop on the bandsaw table while I set part zero isn't ideal)
    When your ready get in touch as I'm now stocking Controllers etc from CncDrive and have just got one of the UCR201 wireless controllers to test and I can tell you it's an amazing bit of kit. One of the best I've ever used.



    Quote Originally Posted by CNCRY View Post
    Currently I have a sheet of 12mm ply on top of the base's cross pieces which is drilled and inserted T nuts. Problem is sometimes they drop out the bottom as the bolt knocks them out when trying to fix something , which is a pain. Plus 12mm ply isn't the most stable material.

    Current options - either some aluminum T-slot, steel t-slot , pre drilled and tapped steel grid plate or buy a sheet of aluminum then surface and use the machine to "drill" a grid of holes.
    I don't have much Z height so needs to be <20mm maximum.

    Anyone tried these or have any comments?

    Thanks!
    I've used just about every method and my personal favorite by a long way is the Matrix grid of tapped holes. It gives the most flexibility and if combined with a few strips of T-slot in strategic places there's not much you can't hold.

    I wouldn't buy a rolled plate and surface it thou as it releases stress and moves around, ground cast tooling plate is much better and doesn't move around when you drill/tap it.
    -use common sense, if you lack it, there is no software to help that.

    Email: dean@jazzcnc.co.uk

    Web site: www.jazzcnc.co.uk

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