. .
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Doddy View Post
    The CR-10S that Jazz has would fit that (rotated), and that's where you'll often find yourself with an insufficiently-sized printer - trying to rotate the job to fit the available envelope. Or building in sections and bolting together, but only if the design supports that.
    Wouldn't need to rotate it at 150x150 with CR10S. But it would take days to print at 400 high with any decent quality. Think if I was building tall parts I'd fit it inside a box to retain the heat and probably upgrade the bed. But that said I've not done a thing to my printer other than print adjusting knobs for the bed to make it easier to setup and I'm very happy with it for what I do, which isn't anything fancy or taxing.

    Quote Originally Posted by diycnc View Post
    Secondary, dont underestimate the strength of a well designed and printed plastic part. Especially the fiber reinforced stuff.
    I can vouch for that,. I've printed lots of parts for testing on machines and I've also got a couple of customer machines running 3D printed PLA motor mounts in a 10hr day working environment. All the machines I build have at least 3-5 individual 3D printed parts ie: Limit brackets etc and growing as they test out ok.

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to JAZZCNC For This Useful Post:


  3. #12
    dudz's Avatar
    Lives in Dunedin, New Zealand. Last Activity: 4 Weeks Ago Has been a member for 7-8 years. Has a total post count of 272. Received thanks 2 times, giving thanks to others 69 times.
    I see the Cr10s has one variant which is 500x500x500 build area. Good size but wow is that expensive (for me anyhow)
    3 axis CNC/router / Alu profile frame....25mm Alu Cutting bed X=500mm Y=300mm Z=110mm.....Supported 25mm X rails ....Supported 20mm Y rails....Supported 20mm Z rails.....2.2kw Chinese WC spindle..... CSLAB CSMIO/IP-M 4-axis Ethernet Motion Controller....M542 Drivers..SY60STH86-3008BF Motors...running....Mach3 / Cambam / Emachineshop.

  4. #13
    dudz's Avatar
    Lives in Dunedin, New Zealand. Last Activity: 4 Weeks Ago Has been a member for 7-8 years. Has a total post count of 272. Received thanks 2 times, giving thanks to others 69 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by m_c View Post
    I've got a Creality Ender 3 Pro.


    IIRC I paid about 190 for the printer via Creality's AliExpress store, including the glass bed option, as it was on special offer at the time.
    I’m a bit confused about this. I buy Chinese parts all the time. But wouldn’t a printer coming from China be a clone of the real thing ? And therefore worse quality ? Or is it a Chinese brand ?
    Last edited by dudz; 05-04-2020 at 12:28 AM.
    3 axis CNC/router / Alu profile frame....25mm Alu Cutting bed X=500mm Y=300mm Z=110mm.....Supported 25mm X rails ....Supported 20mm Y rails....Supported 20mm Z rails.....2.2kw Chinese WC spindle..... CSLAB CSMIO/IP-M 4-axis Ethernet Motion Controller....M542 Drivers..SY60STH86-3008BF Motors...running....Mach3 / Cambam / Emachineshop.

  5. #14
    dudz's Avatar
    Lives in Dunedin, New Zealand. Last Activity: 4 Weeks Ago Has been a member for 7-8 years. Has a total post count of 272. Received thanks 2 times, giving thanks to others 69 times.
    3 axis CNC/router / Alu profile frame....25mm Alu Cutting bed X=500mm Y=300mm Z=110mm.....Supported 25mm X rails ....Supported 20mm Y rails....Supported 20mm Z rails.....2.2kw Chinese WC spindle..... CSLAB CSMIO/IP-M 4-axis Ethernet Motion Controller....M542 Drivers..SY60STH86-3008BF Motors...running....Mach3 / Cambam / Emachineshop.

  6. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by dudz View Post
    A lot of this V2 is sales hype. Don't take any notice of things like the Resume after power-down features because while it does do exactly that it never works out good because the print as cooled down so the new layer doesn't stick which makes virtually useless. The V1 also as this feature.
    The Dual gear filament head looks exactly the same as what's on my 10S but they have integrated the out-or-filament switch into the head by looks of it. Again this nothing special.
    The extruder looks pretty much the same but they have a switch type bed leveling sensor fastened to it. Again nothing special and could easily be added for a few Euro's.

    The main thing I see between the V1 and V2 is the base now houses the electronics which I wouldn't want if I'm honest. The heat of the bed and printing cannot be good long term for those electronics. Large prints take days and all the heat from printing will radiate down into that box. I much prefer my separate box.

    I wouldn't pay $200 more for the V2 I'd buy the 10S and upgrade it with the $200 saved, then you'll have a really great machine.

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to JAZZCNC For This Useful Post:


  8. #16
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 4 Hours Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 2,447. Received thanks 279 times, giving thanks to others 7 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by dudz View Post
    I’m a bit confused about this. I buy Chinese parts all the time. But wouldn’t a printer coming from China be a clone of the real thing ? And therefore worse quality ? Or is it a Chinese brand ?
    Creality is a Chinese company. The official website is www.creality3dofficial.com

    They've done a brilliant job of refining their printers to make them as cheap as possible, while still being reliable, so they filled the gap between the absolute budget build/print your own using hundreds of bits then spend hours fettling it to get it to print consistently, and the more expensive turnkey solutions.
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to m_c For This Useful Post:


  10. #17
    dudz's Avatar
    Lives in Dunedin, New Zealand. Last Activity: 4 Weeks Ago Has been a member for 7-8 years. Has a total post count of 272. Received thanks 2 times, giving thanks to others 69 times.
    i use emachineshop (free) cad software and Cambam (licenced) for my CNC projects.

    Whats a good combination for 3d printers please ?. Ive never had any exp with them
    3 axis CNC/router / Alu profile frame....25mm Alu Cutting bed X=500mm Y=300mm Z=110mm.....Supported 25mm X rails ....Supported 20mm Y rails....Supported 20mm Z rails.....2.2kw Chinese WC spindle..... CSLAB CSMIO/IP-M 4-axis Ethernet Motion Controller....M542 Drivers..SY60STH86-3008BF Motors...running....Mach3 / Cambam / Emachineshop.

  11. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by dudz View Post
    i use emachineshop (free) cad software and Cambam (licenced) for my CNC projects.

    Whats a good combination for 3d printers please ?. Ive never had any exp with them
    You want a 3D modeling software that can save in STL format. Then use a Slicer like Cura to create the G-code. I think fusion 360 now also a slicer integrated into it.

  12. #19
    If you want a reliable printer and your money to go into the right direction buy Prusa or Steel, as they have better quality electronics.


    Hi guys, a bit late in the discussion.

    If you don't want to spend money, buy it assembled second hand, as many of the freaks will like to buy the latest edition and could be selling one in classifieds. And search Facebook for the Prusa group and ask there.



    Under 1k there are not other better or reliable printers. All else has a serious fault or 2. Not that the prusa is perfect, as it would have benefited from hiwin12 and would have become perfect.



    When i say reliable printer i mean to work 24h without any fault and produce impeccable parts, properly sized parts that fit together, and most of all does not burn your house.


    In a printer there are like 100 things to adjust in the program for one to understand properly what's going on. It took me about a month to become an expert, playing 10h per day with the thing. Once you understand the logic behind everything its very easy to correct deviations. The Prusa printer helped in that as was super reliable.

    Now add to that a crappy printer, with crappy electronics and god forbid crappy extruder and you will never understand whats going on and it will finish in a corner somewhere.

    Just my 2 cents.

    PS. I print and sell a cnc dust shoe / see signature/, it takes like 24h to print the main part and it has to have a tight fit to any spindle. Its a very tricky print as one has to take into account also the retraction of the material after print, that is opposite for the 2 holes, one tries to become bigger and the other smaller due to the material cooling and stressing the print. Also have printed my self working Japanese flute, working chuck, and many more things, usable things. Also have repaired my friends crappy printer so i know the difference

    What i am saying is the main thing is to learn the printing and concentrate on designing and producing, not figuring what is not right and repairing. Filament is cheap, but a 24h print is 20e in materials. A couple of fails and you are in the hundreds of lost money
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  13. The Following User Says Thank You to Boyan Silyavski For This Useful Post:


  14. #20
    Doddy's Avatar
    Lives in Preston, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 8 Hours Ago Has been a member for 6-7 years. Has a total post count of 805. Received thanks 129 times, giving thanks to others 34 times. Referred 1 members to the community.
    Quote Originally Posted by dudz View Post
    i use emachineshop (free) cad software and Cambam (licenced) for my CNC projects.

    Whats a good combination for 3d printers please ?. Ive never had any exp with them
    You probably should understand the tool-chain.

    CAD: You have your CAD software - which you're familiar with from your CNC work. That's pretty much your choice.

    TESSALATION: Now, the 3D modelling/printing process then leads you to tessellation - the transformation of the CAD output into a description modelled into 3D space in terms of generating a (lot of) triangular faces that describe the object. Imagine the wireframe image of a 3D-object, that's kinda what I'm struggling to describe. That is the STL format that Jazz eludes to. If your CAD will generate STL then stick with that. F360 (that I'm familiar with) will export objects as STLs. https://www.emachineshop.com/help-im...ort/#undefined suggests the emachineshop's CAD software will also do this. You probably want to use CAD software that exports the STL directly rather than using a 3rd-party agent.

    SLICER: Next, you feed the STL object into the slicer. The purpose of the slicer software is broadly similar to CAM - it generates a series of layers, maybe 0.25m in height each (user programmable) and generates the X/Y tool path for the 3D printer, often presented as G-Code. Each layer is essentially a horizontal slice through the STL model at that given height (hence the name). There's lots of slicers on the market, usually bundled with the machine (and maybe optimised for the machine). It's within the slicer that you'll control filament parameters (extrusion rate, retractions), extruders (temperatures, cooling fans), machine (feed rates), to output a file suited to print.

    PRINTING: Maybe integrated into the slicer, or a separate printer control program, or you simply dump the output from the slicer straight onto the printer (removable media) and print from the printer.

    My particular toolchain:

    Fusion 360 for CAD and tessellation. The STL Export integrates with the "QIDI Print" application that provides the slicing and is a poor-man's version of the very popular Cura software. From there I can export over WiFi to the printer and elect to print from that software. So, in a nut-shell, F360 and Qidi-Print.

    But your choice will be very dependent on your CAD intent and your choice of printer.

  15. The Following User Says Thank You to Doddy For This Useful Post:


Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Cheap reliable connectors
    By bluesking in forum General Electronics
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 18-06-2019, 09:36 AM
  2. RFQ: Looking for a reliable CNC prototyper in aluminium, for lots and lots of jobs
    By Felix.U in forum Projects, Jobs & Requests
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 01-12-2015, 01:00 PM
  3. Wanted - Regular work for reliable machine shop in Northants/Kettering area
    By Narkedat90 in forum Opportunities Available & Sought
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 06-04-2013, 03:09 PM
  4. Looking for a reliable cheap linear system pls
    By psiron in forum Rails, Guideways & Bearings
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 07-06-2010, 03:18 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •