Losing steps/position, again

[Kitwn]

The fault is now present all the time except every now and then after turning everything on I can sometime jog smoothly for a few minutes before it shows.

Is anything getting hotter than it used to? Have you dusted the PC processor heatsink and fan lately?

[ngwagwa]

[QUOTE=JAZZCNC;115603]It would be a mistake not to check it out.

BINGO and thanks to JAZZCNC. Disconnected the drives nuts and jogged for about 10 minutes with no knocking noises, gave them a liberal spray of silicone lubricant, reassembled and all seems sweet.

So, is it possible to replace the stepper motor with one with a bit more gut? I can't see any markings on the current ones.

[JAZZCNC]

[QUOTE=ngwagwa;115630]

It would be a mistake not to check it out.

BINGO and thanks to JAZZCNC. Disconnected the drives nuts and jogged for about 10 minutes with no knocking noises, gave them a liberal spray of silicone lubricant, reassembled and all seems sweet.

So, is it possible to replace the stepper motor with one with a bit more gut? I can't see any markings on the current ones.

Great glad your sorted.

Regards changing the steppers then often with these machnes if using original boards then it's not the steppers that are weak it's the fact they are run with low voltage drives, usualy between 30-40Vdc depending on model. Changing the steppers alone won't make any difference because the drives and voltage are the weak link.

Are you using the original drives etc that came with the machine.?

[ngwagwa]

Hi, The control box is a right jungle but as far as I can see the original drivers are used for X,Y&Z and there is an additional HY-DIV268N-5A for the 4th AXIS. As I am not using the 4th axis could I try using that driver?

[JAZZCNC]

Hi, The control box is a right jungle but as far as I can see the original drivers are used for X,Y&Z and there is an additional HY-DIV268N-5A for the 4th AXIS. As I am not using the 4th axis could I try using that driver?

Won't make much difference if you haven't got the volts to go with it. Volts are what give steppers there speed.

To be honest without knowing more about what's inside I'm relutant to advise any more and suggest until you know exactly what you have and the voltages you have that you don't go messing about because it's very easy to kill these boards.

Based on expereince of these machines I think you'll find the only way to get them to go faster and be reliable is a full retro-fit with new drives, psu and motion controller the motors you can usually keep. When this is done it transforms the machine to another level, but it costs money.

[ngwagwa]

Am I correct that a retro-fit would mean a new motion cotroller, PSU and 3 new drivers and if this is the case could I (for the time being) just use a new driver on the X Axis and use two HY-DIV268N-5A drivers for Y and Z?

[JAZZCNC]

Am I correct that a retro-fit would mean a new motion cotroller, PSU and 3 new drivers and if this is the case could I (for the time being) just use a new driver on the X Axis and use two HY-DIV268N-5A drivers for Y and Z?

Yes for the best effect a full refit is required. However like I said before it's the volts that give you the speed and with those drives, you have a maximum of 48v. However, they are rubbish TB based drives and if you run them anywhere near 48v they will die quickly so you are going to be limited to around 40vdc to be safe.

You need to test the voltage the drives are running at now to get an idea of what will work best. If you do buy new drives then go for something better than those you have. Digital drives are cheap now and can be found for around £40. They will outperform those drives by a large margin and be much smoother and more reliable.

Also using an Ethernet-based motion controller will make a massive difference to how the machine performs compared to the parallel port. When combined with Digital drives running with a voltage around 56Vdc the performance compared to the standard machine will blow your mind.
I converted what I think is the exact same machine(using original steppers) and it would easily reach 15Mtr/min rapid speeds but was derated to 10mmtr/min for use and will cut at those feeds if required. It's been running flawlessly for nearly 3yrs and is used every day to make molds etc.

You really do get what you pay for, so if you want the best save up and dump the rubbish your using now.

[ngwagwa]

Well, having just been browsing I was looking at Ethernet (as it is one thing I understand)

My spindle is controlled via a serial port and a plug-in so that is one thing I don't need to worry about.

Saving up is not an option as having the router misbehave is costing me money, so having just spoken to my pension provider it is time to start planning.

By my reckoning I need:
1) an Ethernet based motion controller
2) a connection block and cable to the controller
3) PSU
4) 3 drivers

Mount all these on a board, (now it gets tricky) connect the outputs from the current drivers and the limit switches/probe switch to '#2. Rip out everything from the control box and install the new setup.

[ngwagwa]

I have just had my head in the control box and I can't see anything that may be the drivers for X,Y and Z. It looks like the guy that converted it to mach3 thought the easiest way was to hang an old plastic kitchen chopping board to mount the new BOB on right in front of the original control board.I will just have to wing it and make sure I find the stepper motor leads when I remove the existing circuitry.

After spending last night looking at possible options I am drawn to an AXBB-E Ethernet motion controller and breakout board combined controller as includes a BOB plus it is in stock at https://www.stoneycnc.com/axbb-e-eth...r/a4753?c=3479.

Can you suggest suitable drivers and PSU?

[dazp1976]

If I did it again I would get drivers that are rated upto 80Vac/110vdc and use a 70Vac toroidal transformer.
Something like a 2*35vac secondary outputs wired in series for 70vac.
Doesn't matter wether you have Nema 17/ 23/ 34size motors etc, the drivers regulate output voltage to the motors themselves.

For the bb-e it needs 5v and 24v. Could use either voltage stepdowns from the toroidal or seperate switched psu's. Depending on how many relays you have will determine what amp rating they will ideally need to be.