Losing steps/position, again

[ngwagwa]

Great, now things are starting to come together so I intend using:

AXBB-E Motion controller powered with Existing 24V power supply and new 5V PSU (see bellow)

500VA 230v to 2x35v Toroidal transformer (wired in parallel) https://airlinktransformers.com/prod...rmer-cm0500235
Bridge Rectifier Diode, Single Phase, 400 V, 35 A
4 OFF Electrolytic Capacitor, 4700 µF, 100 VDC
3 OFF Stepper Motor Driver 6.0A, 80V CNC https://www.cnc4you.co.uk/Microstepp...tepping-CW8060

Regarding the 5V supply the blurb from CNCDrive say We recommend to use a power supply with at least 500mAmps of current capability of thepower supply. More current may be required if more I/Os are used.so this should be well suitable?
50W 5V DC 10A Enclosed Switchmode Power Supply https://cpc.farnell.com/tt-electroni...90?st=5v%20psu
This was selected as it is cheap enough and as I will be ordering toher stuff from CPC I will get free delivery

[Doddy]

5V PSU is fine; overkill, but fine. CPC do sell DIN rail PSUs which are more costly, and lower rated but would give you an immediate solution to mounting this in your enclosure (I'm not going back through your pics but imagine there's a bit of rail spare in there somewhere?) There's one for a tad under £20 in CPC - more expensive, but either would work.

If you wanted to offset the cost I can throw a couple of 10,000uF / 160VDC (I think... cba to go to the shed at this time to check) caps at you - I just keep tripping over them, and having bought a job-load of them there's not many projects that they are suited for. But I think you'll be hitting CPC anyway for the bridge (I've nothing suitable).

I do think the choice of transformer voltage is not the best - as Jazz said it puts you at the bottom end of the next-level of stepper driver voltages (cheap - upto 50V, next level upto 80V and then around 110V before mains), you're too high to use the 50V drivers and so you're paying for 80V drivers and not really exploiting this. 2x45 wired in parallel would present around 60V which gives you a bit more bang for your buck at no extra cost. I'd go for... https://airlinktransformers.com/prod...ange-cm0300245

If it helps - I run a 2x50V 800W toroidal primarily on a Sieg but I can and do slave the Denford star mill (probably similar motors) from this. The choice of transformer was a Maplins clearance sale bargain, but it was close enough to what I wanted.

[ngwagwa]

Cheers Doddy.
I will stick to the cheap overkill 5V PSU
As you say I will be hitting CPC so will get 4 capacitors there.
Re the transformer the 35V ones I originally selected were 500VA, the ones you suggest are 300VA did you mean to link to this https://airlinktransformers.com/prod...ange-cm0500245 if so then point taken and this will be the one I use.

[Doddy]

Full reveal: I believe 300VA is enough for you and there's an air of cost-consciousness in your posts. If you're happy to suck up £20 extra for a pretty-much guaranteed future-proofing then go with it. You'll regret not doing it if you later need it, you'll probably not regret going 500VA if you don't need it.

[ngwagwa]

While being cost conscious I don't mind paying a little extra for future proofing, Thanks

[dazp1976]

See here you go again giving out wrong information and not understanding how steppers work.!!

First, it's 27mh in series not parallel and that isn't uncommon when wired in series. For our needs with routers, it's 6Mh which just means it's a shit motor and to give it a wide birth.

It's a known fact that motors wired in series have higher Mh and require higher voltage if you want speed from them, this is why most of those you list have high inductance. If you look all except the third on list only have 4 wires and are probably Series wound motors.? Again anyone who fits these to a router is a moron who didn't do his research.!

However, all of this doesn't change the fact that your advice that "Doesn't matter wether you have Nema 17/ 23/ 34size motors etc, the drivers regulate output voltage to the motors themselves." is seriously wrong and potentially dangerous if took to the extremes ie: 240Vac drives with nema 17 motors.

I'm done with this now.!!

You asked for examples. I wouldn't use them for paperweights and they theoretically should not be allowed on the market to dupe people.
Would avoid Automation Technologies when it comes to a lot of steppers too. Pretty dire afaic. Seen many recommend A,T. Shocker.

[JAZZCNC]

You asked for examples. I wouldn't use them for paperweights and they theoretically should not be allowed on the market to dupe people.

They are not duping people if they provide the relevent details. For some applications they are perfectly fine. It's the users responsabilty to know what they are buying and make sure they are fit for purpose. In case of routers they are not unless used with higher voltages, there are better choices and that's why we use them.

But I do agree I wouldn't use these nasties either even if correct for the job.!!

[ngwagwa]

Right folks.
I have the 36V PSU kindly donated by Doddy installed an powered alongside a DIV268N to drive the X axis

BOB connected to the driver as follows:
5V connected to DIR+ PUL+ EN+
EN to EN-
XDIR to DIR-
XCLK to PUL-

I have found the correct 4 wires for the stepper and which are pairs - does it matter which pair is connected to A and B on the driver and how do I know which is + or - ?

I think the only missing thing is the dip switch settings

[Doddy]

Stepper: If it goes in the wrong direction, swap one pair.

Pull the EN signal for now - without the enable signal the driver defaults to ON. Once you get it working then re-assess if this is part of your e-stop strategy.

DIP-switch, start with 8 micro-steps and maybe 2.5A or thereabouts. If the motor gets uncomfortable warm then think to reduce - but that current should be safe.

[ngwagwa]

Stepper: If it goes in the wrong direction, swap one pair.

.

I am just getting a knocking noise - no movement.

I forgot about the 5th and 6th wires from the steppers. They run from the stepper to the underside of the cabinet - I will try and trace th- this may take some time.....

UPDATE
I have manage to get underneath (glad the router wasn't sat on a table) and it looks like the rogue blue and white cables are connected through the umbilical (the wiring diagram I have does not show them). Thre are several identical multicore cables going from inside the cabinet through to the underside and as my arms aren't long enough I am going to have to leave it until tomorrow as I don't want to cut the wrong ones.