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  1. #1
    Sterob's Avatar
    Lives in Australind, Australia. Last Activity: 10 Hours Ago Has been a member for 4-5 years. Has a total post count of 72. Received thanks 4 times, giving thanks to others 5 times.
    I understand the method of aligning a linear rail to a length of extrusion, using a dial indicator on the carriage, but I'm having trouble working how I would do the same when mounting a ball screw to extrusion.
    How do you move a dial indicator along a ball screw to check its parallelness to the rail? The ball nut doesn't have a flat surface to reference to and if you use a ball nut mount, how do you keep it square as you move it along the ball screw?
    I must be completely missing somethng....lol

    How do you guys do it? It must be one of the most difficult jobs to do when building a CNC Router?

    Steve

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    Last edited by Sterob; 22-04-2020 at 01:14 PM.

  2. #2
    It's exactly same as the rails. Why do you need a flat surface.? Just indicate off the side of ball nut or screw. Watch this.


  3. #3
    Sterob's Avatar
    Lives in Australind, Australia. Last Activity: 10 Hours Ago Has been a member for 4-5 years. Has a total post count of 72. Received thanks 4 times, giving thanks to others 5 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    It's exactly same as the rails. Why do you need a flat surface.?
    So I can get accurate results. That method is like balancing a ball on top of another ball....

    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Just indicate off the side of ball nut or screw.

    Watch this.
    I watched the video, thanks. It shows the person indicating somewhere around the top of the ball screw and then carefully pivoting the mag base and metal plat up so he can move the Indicator up the other end of the ball screw.............I can't imagine that being good engineering practice.

    But if thats the way its done, I guess I don't have other choice.
    I just thought there might be a better way.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Sterob View Post
    So I can get accurate results. That method is like balancing a ball on top of another ball....



    I watched the video, thanks. It shows the person indicating somewhere around the top of the ball screw and then carefully pivoting the mag base and metal plat up so he can move the Indicator up the other end of the ball screw.............I can't imagine that being good engineering practice.

    But if thats the way its done, I guess I don't have other choice.
    I just thought there might be a better way.
    Most screws have a different finish in the vid it shows a ground flat to crests to work from most don't so if you wind the ball nut / housing to one end take a reading then wind to other end take a reading and adjust if needed,

    Phill

  5. #5
    Sterob's Avatar
    Lives in Australind, Australia. Last Activity: 10 Hours Ago Has been a member for 4-5 years. Has a total post count of 72. Received thanks 4 times, giving thanks to others 5 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by phill05 View Post
    Most screws have a different finish in the vid it shows a ground flat to crests to work from most don't so if you wind the ball nut / housing to one end take a reading then wind to other end take a reading and adjust if needed,

    Phill
    Thanks Phill.

  6. #6
    Perhaps I was a bit naive here, but I took a rather more simple-minded approach to ballscrew alignment. Both ballscrew bearing blocks were clamped to adjustable mounts that allowed me to move the bearing up and down, left and right. I left the clamp bolts loose enough to allow the bearing block to move, then wound the ballnut attached to the carriage to that end of the ballscrew. Clamp bearing block in place. Ditto at other end - allow ballscrew to locate bearing block. Tighten. Job done. Didn't need to blow the dust off my DTI...

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Neale View Post
    Perhaps I was a bit naive here, but I took a rather more simple-minded approach to ballscrew alignment. Both ballscrew bearing blocks were clamped to adjustable mounts that allowed me to move the bearing up and down, left and right. I left the clamp bolts loose enough to allow the bearing block to move, then wound the ballnut attached to the carriage to that end of the ballscrew. Clamp bearing block in place. Ditto at other end - allow ballscrew to locate bearing block. Tighten. Job done. Didn't need to blow the dust off my DTI...
    That's problem isn't it. So many way to do it and each machine different so not always possible to do it that way. But end of day it's not rocket science.!


    Quote Originally Posted by Sterob View Post
    So I can get accurate results. That method is like balancing a ball on top of another ball....
    Well yes but easy enough, it's just a case of moving up n down to find high point then lock it off.

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