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  1. There is a posibility that the chips are not actually Toshiba, but cheap copies?
    This is quite common in china.

  2. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by Gary View Post
    There is a posibility that the chips are not actually Toshiba, but cheap copies?
    This is quite common in china.
    The board I have seems to have the genuine Toshiba AHQ spec chips fitted. Either that or they have gone to a lot of trouble forging the TOSHIBA markings and logo.

  3. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by williamturner1 View Post
    So is it that Mr ChinaMan's circuit doesn't provide enough protection be it through poor design or poor component choice
    The H bridge in the chip itself is designed to discharge the inductance but the board has external diodes as well as protection. I cant see that the problem is the enternal diodes fitted to the board. You could measure to see if the board diodes on the blown chip motor output pins are damaged, If they are not then this implies these were not the reason for the failure of the chip. The diodes are FR307 which are 3A fast recovery diodes. These are rated at 1000V VR witha 200A surge and a 1.3V Vf and can withstand an average of 3 Amps continuously.

    Hope this helps

  4. Printing the toshiba logo on the chip is the easy part.
    Fake IC's in china have been going on for years, they even copy memory chips, and brand them so they can sell them for more.
    These fake chips have even made it into branded TV's and computer equipment.

    Quote Originally Posted by 1113562 View Post
    The board I have seems to have the genuine Toshiba AHQ spec chips fitted. Either that or they have gone to a lot of trouble forging the TOSHIBA markings and logo.

  5. #45
    Quote Originally Posted by Gary View Post
    Printing the toshiba logo on the chip is the easy part.
    Fake IC's in china have been going on for years, they even copy memory chips, and brand them so they can sell them for more.
    These fake chips have even made it into branded TV's and computer equipment.
    Gary, I think you are getting a bit carried away here. I can't see that there is enough world market sales in specialist stepper motor driver chips like the TB6560 to make it worth there while doing a replica. Faking memory chips and consumer IC's as you identify maybe.

    Anyway my Chinese driver with TB6560's works fine. The only criticism is the slightly inadequate heat sink and fan assembly but thats quite easy to upgrade and will only bother those working at full power for long periods.

  6. Another Newbie,

    I am looking at using this board as a hotwire cutter for RC aircraft wings (4 Axis).

    1. Does this board need any other driver boards ? (i.e. Direct connect computer to printer port, stepper motors direct connect).

    2. Is there an updated manual with correct pinouts as you guys have discovered ?

    Much appreciate any advice.
    Rick

  7. #47
    Quote Originally Posted by cleansurf2 View Post
    Another Newbie,

    I am looking at using this board as a hotwire cutter for RC aircraft wings (4 Axis).

    1. Does this board need any other driver boards ? (i.e. Direct connect computer to printer port, stepper motors direct connect).
    The driver board needs no other parts other than a DC Power Supply. Mine came with a Parallel port cable to connect to the PC printer port and came with the connectors for the stepper motors which allow you to connect directly (they have screw terminals in the connectors - quite neat). The DC Power supply to drive the board and steppers needs to be of the correct voltage and current rating. I have a FARNELL B30/10 PSU which is variable 0-30V with a current output of 10 Amps max continuous ..... ideal for this board. If you have to wire in HOME/Estop and End Stop safety switches you will need to seperately purchase a small header socket and crimps to fit the tiny 2 mm pitch PCB header for these interfaces. These are available from RS - I can advise part numbers assuming it is the same as my board.

    2. Is there an updated manual with correct pinouts as you guys have discovered ?
    The board I have is a 3 Axis plus spindle start/stop relay but I believe there is a 4 axis version. The manual for the 4 axis may be correct for pin-out and DIP switch settings.

    As you may have read, the silk screen notation on the printed circuit board is correct so if your manual that comes with the board does not line up with the PCB artwork then you should ask questions (on this forum perhaps) before you connect and power up.

    John

  8. I've received my TB6560 and started bench testing for a 4 axis hotwire configuration. Looking at using Mach3 + Profili2 for the G-code.
    I'm using Axis X, Y, Z, A, running Mach3 v3.042.
    Problem is that two of the axis are really slow. I have swapped around the motors to prove there OK. So the problem is likely Mach3 config.
    Mach3 was more complex than I expected, so far can't find the configuration problem (I''m an electronics Tech).

    Anyone offer any advice or a config file to help out.

    thanks
    Rick

  9. #49
    Rick

    By default the manual that comes with these boards show Mach3 setup with simple pics. Anything outside this should be the screw size/ pulley size setup details and motor details. I use EMC2 so can not comment where to set that up in M3. Give that area look first?
    If the nagging gets really bad......Get a bigger shed:naughty:

  10. Quote Originally Posted by cleansurf2 View Post
    I've received my TB6560 and started bench testing for a 4 axis hotwire configuration. Looking at using Mach3 + Profili2 for the G-code.
    I'm using Axis X, Y, Z, A, running Mach3 v3.042.
    Problem is that two of the axis are really slow. I have swapped around the motors to prove there OK. So the problem is likely Mach3 config.
    Mach3 was more complex than I expected, so far can't find the configuration problem (I''m an electronics Tech).

    Anyone offer any advice or a config file to help out.

    thanks
    Rick
    Rick,

    Define 'slow' .. do you mean they dont rotate at the same speed as the other channels with the same settings? I assume you've been through the 'motor tuning' process in the Mach3 tutorial?

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