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  1. #81
    the connection of the stepper motors is ok. Attached youīll find screenshots from my mach 3 config which should be as suggested. I think the problem comes from PIN 1 with the permanent voltage of -0,22 V.

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  2. #82
    Ok i checked you details against the manual located here and it checks out correct so if all the wires are properly secured then it must be a problem on the board. I will assume you are using nema23 motors and the voltages for that motor are correct? they are wired for parallel operation?

    Have you tried swapping the motors around to eliminate they are he problem? Check the bios on your pc and swap between ecp and epp if you can, some bios have these together or separate. If all this is ok the power up and switch on (not running any operation and check for voltage on the output pins of the board to the motors (A+). Which ever one is not working trace back to before the driver chip to the input pin and see if it is getting a supply. If not then the chance are it will just be one of the opto isolator IC's. You can confirm this by swapping it for one of the others. If they are ok then it will be one of the driver chips. I hope this gets you going in the right direction to sort it.

    If the nagging gets really bad......Get a bigger shed:naughty:

  3. #83
    Hi Paul,

    thanks for the detailed answer. Can you do me a favour and check on your PIN 1 (X-Axis Step) the voltage you have ? I have permanent 0,22V. For Y Axis and Z Axis i have step Pin voltage of 0 V, when i move axis in MACH3, voltage changes to -0,02 V. So i asked myself if PIN 1 also should have 0 V when axis it not moved. Or is it normal that PIN 1 has permant voltage of 0,22V ?


  4. #84

    My board is different than yous as it uses the earlier TA chips, the set up is different but to answer the question i do not get voltage on that pin. A silly question though? you are using the original cable that come with it? as it is not the same as a printer cable.
    If the nagging gets really bad......Get a bigger shed:naughty:

  5. The Following User Says Thank You to Swarfing For This Useful Post:

  6. #85
    Quote Originally Posted by masterploxis View Post

    ok, thanks Y/Z Axis working. X not working. I figured out that i have permanent -0.22V out of PIN 1 (X-step). While for Y and Z i have 0 V and -0,02V when axis is moved. So does anybody knows why i have these -0.22V permanent output ? The DIR PIN for X axis is working - so only the PIN 1 is the problem. I checked in mach, an no other functions are related to PIN 1.

    Thanks for any input - step by step t will work someday..

    Regards from Germany
    Did you get your X working as I have the same problem? also anyone notice the pin outs on the board for the steppers are different to the instruction sheet which is right?
    Last edited by gorbo; 12-11-2010 at 09:45 PM.

  7. #86

    yes now everything is working. I took a different computer and voila ! First i did use a Fujitsu Siemends Laptop - X Axis not working, now i use IBM Thinkpad - and everything is nearly fine. For Christmas holiday i want to get a cheap second hand desktop pc to get the full 5 V out of the parallel port.

    Anyway - my x-axis is still sometimes losing steps. I donīt know if this is a general problem with this chinese board or if thereīs a mechanical problem. But each day my machine gets better...

    Good luck

  8. #87
    Thanks for that MP I tried another PC with a built in LPT and It works, I previously used a PCI-E card which , was not giving a full output on X.
    One question I still have how do you wire up the Spindle relay? I have a 230vac Spindle............... again the instructions are vague

  9. #88
    Hi Garbo,

    so far i didnīt connect the spindle relay. I also have a 230v spindle - first i want to get my steppers running without losing steps. Then i will approach the spindle.


  10. #89
    Same here I find its not a problem switching it on by hand, I have not experienced losing steps yet but I dare say I will

  11. #90
    Like you I bought one of these boards to go with my bipolar stepper motors...and I wanted to build a foam cutter...I bought an Arduino 1280 mega to perform the tricks GMFC wants and wrote some software to do it...(about Ģ30 of bits from ebay). I then made a 25 way to 25 way crossover cable to switch the pins round so that GMFC/Jedicut could drive the steppers and intercepted those necessary to provide heat signals etc required by GMFC/Jedicut..

    Glad to provide details if you'd like them..the Arduino has and LCD output to show manual heat state etc.and the hot wire power driver is a steal from the GMFC design (you'll need to make this up on some vero board). The Arduino board also provides a tone output as the GMFC timer input.

    Here is the pin mapping (sorry the site doesn't seem to allow me to format this properly, the first line is a heade)r:

    25 male d type to pc pin number Signal name To Arduino pin number To 25 way d type to stepper board pin number
    5 X step 16
    2 X dir 1
    4 Y step 14
    7 Y dir 7
    3 Z step 3
    6 Z dir 6
    9 Astep 9
    8 A dir 8
    17 enable 4,17,5
    18,19,20,21,22,23,24,25 GND 18,19,20,21,22,23,24,25
    10 Timer 2
    11 Heat PWM out 3
    12 Auto/Manual 11
    16 Heating PWM in from PC 12

    Here's the Arduino code which is an enhancement of UFO_man's idea in the DIYDRONES site:

    #include <LCD4Bit_mod.h>
    // Usage: foam wire cutter.
    // Pulse width modulation of a cutting wire with PWM output
    // Heat controlled by analog input (e.g. pot) and GMFC type PC software
    // Control the heat precisely with turning the pot
    // Used in this case with a 48v psu and rene wire.other options are readily possible
    // The lPin is the pin that is connected to the FET transistor controlling hot wire temeperature
    // used with pwm in manual mode from the arduino board and using the pc waveform in auto mode for GMFC etc compatibility
    // JH mods: to make it GMFC/ Jedicut compatible and hopefully Tjzoide as well
    // A Chinese 4 axis stepper driver is being used instead of mm2001 as per GMFC.
    // The motor on /off pin is mapped straight through to the stepper board as are the dir and step signals for each channel
    // using back to back 25 way din connectors and suitable wiring
    // Author: "UFO_MAN" + JH
    // Hardware: Arduino

    int lPin = 3; // FET transistor (via driver) connected to digital pin 9
    int analogPin = 7; // potentiometer connected to analog pin 3 (the pot meter need a voltage on the hot side and the cold side need to be connected to ground. a 5K pot will work fine.
    int val = 0;
    int toneoutpin = 2; //tone output for GMFC set to 4 KHZ
    int automanual = 11; //input swich to selct between manual and auto
    int pc_wvfrm = 12; //pwm input for heat setting from pc
    int ledpin = 13;
    char buf5[10]; //buffer for string conversion
    LCD4Bit_mod lcd = LCD4Bit_mod(2);

    void setup(){
    pinMode(lPin, OUTPUT); // sets the pin as output
    pinMode(automanual, INPUT); //switch for auto manual selection
    pinMode(pc_wvfrm, INPUT); // pwm waveform from pc in auto mode
    tone (toneoutpin, 4000); //set tone output for gmfc compaitbility at 4Khz
    lcd.printIn("JH HWC ver 1.0");

    void loop(){

    lcd.clear ();
    lcd.printIn("manual: heat =");
    while(digitalRead(automanual)== HIGH){
    val = analogRead(analogPin); // read the input pin
    analogWrite(lPin, val / 4);
    itoa(val/10.3, buf5, 10);
    if ((val/10.3) <10)lcd.printIn(" ");
    lcd.cursorTo(2,0);lcd.printIn(" ");
    lcd.printIn("% ");

    while (digitalRead(automanual)== LOW) { //the switch is in the auto position
    lcd.clear ();
    lcd.printIn("auto: set by PC"); //write a message on the screen once
    while (pc_wvfrm == HIGH){
    } //wait for the pc wfrm to go low..this is safety in case the pc is disconnected...otherwise the hot wire could go to 100% and burn out
    while (digitalRead(automanual) == LOW){
    digitalWrite(3, digitalRead( pc_wvfrm));//copy input to output as quick as you can while switch is in auto position.


    Hope this helps,and doesn't confuse..send me a mail for more details or a chat

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