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  1. #1
    Hi folks!

    Little bit about me: I’m a hobby woodworker and guitar builder (acoustic and electric), albeit one who has been on a building sabbatical of sorts due to intensive work schedules and new parenthood.

    Waaay back around 2013 I decided a CNC would be a fun and useful (but certainly challenging!) addition to the workshop, and allow some designs that would be far more difficult to do by hand. A few hours at night spent finessing designs is also something that can be done quietly enough not to disturb the rest of the house! I have zero real world experience with this sort of thing, just years of lurking and reading.

    I purchased a CNC kit from George at XZero in Canada, who shipped most of the machine (Thankfully charging for those parts I received at the time) before falling off the radar due to health issues (from what I’ve been able to gather). Basically I have all the extrusions and machined aluminum parts and 2 of the three ball screws needed (and a massive bag of t nuts and bolts). Thinks have calmed down, so I’m looking to build up the rest of the system. What I do have seems very sturdy.

    The router is a 1200mm x 790mm x 300mm (measuring the rail lengths) design, double checking dimensions on the rails and carriages it was dimensioned for (looking like HiWin 20mm rail with long and short blocks is the right fit, but need to dry assemble to check spacing).

    Right now I’m looking for advice on a few things. For starters, the X axis ballscrew - I believe (but can’t confirm) that the router was designed with a 2010 ballscrew in mind. The Y and Z axes are 16mm (need to check whether 1605 or 1610). The plan is to mount a Teknomotor ER25 spindle, original plan was a 2KW model. I want to machine wood mostly, but have the option for occasional aluminium/brass machining. May require adding stiffeners to the top of the Y axis gantry, but I figure that’s for a next step. Some similar machines have 2510 or even 2525 ballscrews, but that seems like overkill. Or is it just enough kill?

    The options for driver systems have also grown considerably. I’m considering an EdingCNC board (local, good support, good local forums, Ethernet and USB interfaces) and JMC 180 watt closed loop integrated servos. This seems like a good option on paper, albeit one requiring a pretty hefty power supply.

    Im also looking for a good source on the linear motion bits I still need - HiWin Rails and carriages, and the X ballscrew. There are some interesting options on Ali (like BST automation) - that is until you add shipping and duties, at which point I figure I’ll just buy local for the added peace of mind. But if anyone has good tips, I’m all ears.

    These seem to be the big things to work out - wiring and cable management should be feasible, and I’m open to suggestions regarding a good dust boot to fit a modestly powered 100mm cyclone collector.

  2. #2
    Welcome to the forum!

    Quote Originally Posted by Mattia View Post
    Right now I’m looking for advice on a few things. For starters, the X axis ballscrew - I believe (but can’t confirm) that the router was designed with a 2010 ballscrew in mind. The Y and Z axes are 16mm (need to check whether 1605 or 1610). The plan is to mount a Teknomotor ER25 spindle, original plan was a 2KW model. I want to machine wood mostly, but have the option for occasional aluminium/brass machining. May require adding stiffeners to the top of the Y axis gantry, but I figure that’s for a next step. Some similar machines have 2510 or even 2525 ballscrews, but that seems like overkill. Or is it just enough kill?
    If you were using steppers, 2010 on long, 1610 on the other horizontal, and 1605 on Z would be reasonable, but you're wanting to use servos so it might change things - depends on what speeds you want out of the machine and what gearing ratios you want to use.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mattia View Post
    The options for driver systems have also grown considerably. I’m considering an EdingCNC board (local, good support, good local forums, Ethernet and USB interfaces) and JMC 180 watt closed loop integrated servos. This seems like a good option on paper, albeit one requiring a pretty hefty power supply.
    Generally advice is try to use Ethernet where possible - USB is somewhat notorious. A few people around here build their PSUs, so might be worth reading up on it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mattia View Post
    Im also looking for a good source on the linear motion bits I still need - HiWin Rails and carriages, and the X ballscrew. There are some interesting options on Ali (like BST automation) - that is until you add shipping and duties, at which point I figure I’ll just buy local for the added peace of mind. But if anyone has good tips, I’m all ears.
    Have you tried emailing BST directly for a quote inc shipping? Duty to the UK wasn't a big issue when I ordered mine. Mention the forum for what its worth!

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by AndyUK View Post
    Welcome to the forum! If you were using steppers, 2010 on long, 1610 on the other horizontal, and 1605 on Z would be reasonable, but you're wanting to use servos so it might change things - depends on what speeds you want out of the machine and what gearing ratios you want to use.
    Thanks! To be honest, I’m not sure the servo option is a big enough advantage, but I’ve seen a few members in Dutch forums with very good results dropping in these budget servos on similar machines - smoother operation and quicker rapids, a bit quieter. But the machine as designed is a direct drive, though I’m willing to add some form of gearing/pulley system. From what I understand servos are potentially more accurate, better at higher speeds, but lack torque at lower speed.

    I don’t really have a good idea of what speeds I’ll be wanting/needing - I will probably mostly be milling various hardwoods, preferably with larger bits (10-12mm 2 flutes for cutting/carving solidbody electrics, in woods like maple, mahogany, and rosewoods), but also smaller items with tiny bits that require good precision but. It necessarily a lot of power - shell, 0.5mm fret slots and the like. And a very occasional bit of brass or aluminium (engraving, maybe small wood branding irons, that sort of thing).

    Generally advice is try to use Ethernet where possible - USB is somewhat notorious. A few people around here build their PSUs, so might be worth reading up on it.
    Thanks! I’ve got a friend who studied electrical engineering and understands this stuff far better, so I’ll have a look at that aspect with him.

    Have you tried emailing BST directly for a quote inc shipping? Duty to the UK wasn't a big issue when I ordered mine. Mention the forum for what its worth!
    Will do, I was just window shopping in their Ali store, where some items have pretty stiff shipping charges. Any advice on the linear rail carriage preload? I’m guessing Z0 or ZA, but don’t think it will make a huge difference in performance for my intended use...

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