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  1. #1
    Hi there! I'm strictly a hobbyist here and, although I'm trained in the programming of the machines, a lot of the hardware is new to me and I don't know a lot of the terminology required, so please bare with me!

    Let's say for sake of argument that I want to use a small home CNC 3-axis mill to create a thickish disk from a rectangular block of wood of similar diameter. I'm assuming to mill the edges correctly I'd need to do the top half, then flip it over and do the bottom. Ignoring issues with setting datum for the cylinder for now, how would I clamp the circular half down securely so that the still-rectangular bottom half could be carved safely?

    Sorry if this is a really silly question, but I've searched around for CNC specific clamps and can only find hold-down and stepper clamps, which would block tooling on the sides or parts of the sides, and I don't like the idea of trying to mill around the clamps. I'm sure some suitable equipment should exist for this but I either don't know the name or how to use it! D:

    -F

  2. #2
    I think most people would cut it without turning it over. You just need a long enough tool and depth increments suitable for your machine.

    Kit

    PS I don't know you well enough to bare with you but I will bear with anyone who is willing to learn!
    An optimist says the glass is half full, a pessimist says the glass is half empty, an engineer says you're using the wrong sized glass.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Kitwn View Post
    I think most people would cut it without turning it over. You just need a long enough tool and depth increments suitable for your machine.
    So clamp from the top, cut in between the clamps, then move them around and cut the bits that were covered? This seems prone to error and it's what I want to avoid. Or do you mean cutting the perimeter last and trusting the newly-disconnected piece not to chip or go flying off?

    Besides, I'll have to turn it over sooner or later as there will be designs on both the upper and lower face.

  4. #4
    do you have a vice if so you could mill soft jaws to hold on the dia.

  5. #5
    RobC's Avatar
    Lives in Leeds, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 30-12-2022 Has been a member for 5-6 years. Has a total post count of 116. Received thanks 16 times, giving thanks to others 21 times.
    I do quite a lot of milling wood, composite woods and hardwoods. Most of the time you need not bother if you are working with mdf or an engineered one as they are perfectly flat most times. Raw unfinished wood, so band sawn or rough sawn generally yes face them either side if you are wanting clean finishes on either side. Generally when I do my hold down which I use 20mm x 50mm x 10mm aluminium bolt down clamps I milled I will mark out on my work piece the dimensions and then give myself a good 3 or 4 mm to spare. Being aluminium you can get away with the odd scrape instead of steel where you get no chance of getting away with such. My clamps are all sorts of shapes on the tips

    Be it a messy setup, it works flawlessly so i never changed it. Click image for larger version. 

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    Regards to the last cutting, I tend to leave that specific task for the cutting of the very final edge before it would disconnect from the main body that is clamped down. Ensure you have triangular tabs. Most times with wood I'll let it drop down to the bed once its been cut free as there is normally sawdust within the slot which acts as quite a good temporary restriction to stop it moving sideways.

  6. #6
    No but I can always get one. Will look into small vices for T-beds.

  7. #7
    AndyUK's Avatar
    Lives in Southampton, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 2 Weeks Ago Has been a member for 6-7 years. Has a total post count of 469. Received thanks 100 times, giving thanks to others 43 times. Referred 1 members to the community.
    Quote Originally Posted by Kitwn View Post
    I don't know you well enough to bare with you
    !!!

  8. #8
    Depends on how you want to tackle it and remove stock.
    If removing all the outer stock then buy your self some Mitee bite low profile clamps. These will clamp it so you can machine away most of the material, then turn it over reclamp on the edges and remove the remaining stock.
    Or if you want a cheap dirty method then machine a pocket in some scrap just slightly smaller diameter than your circle so it's a tight fit and tap the cut part into the hole. Take light cuts on the remaining stock and you won't have any issues.

    However, seen as your using a rectangular piece of stock then just do a profile pass and leave tabs to hold the part or very thin onion skin. Screw the parts down in the corners of the rectangle.
    -use common sense, if you lack it, there is no software to help that.

    Email: [email protected]

    Web site: www.jazzcnc.co.uk

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    If removing all the outer stock then buy your self some Mitee bite low profile clamps.
    Thankyou, I think this is exactly what I need!

    *EDIT* Not that I can find anywhere that's SELLING them. Typical!

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    Thankyou, I think this is exactly what I need!

    *EDIT* Not that I can find anywhere that's SELLING them. Typical!
    https://www.mscdirect.co.uk/CGI/INSR...0&N=4294966260
    -use common sense, if you lack it, there is no software to help that.

    Email: [email protected]

    Web site: www.jazzcnc.co.uk

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