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  1. #51
    Not quite ready to do any cutting, I need to understand how to set coordinates, also I need to fit a sacrificial board and do a levelling sweep which will be good practise, I think a probe plate would be a good idea, then I would know the exact distance the top of the tool is before I start any job, all this will take me a little while.
    It's a shame I did not get the CD with it as I understand it has some test programmes which would probably have given me some idea of programming jobs.

  2. #52
    Quote Originally Posted by RichardR View Post
    Not quite ready to do any cutting, I need to understand how to set coordinates, also I need to fit a sacrificial board and do a levelling sweep which will be good practise, I think a probe plate would be a good idea, then I would know the exact distance the top of the tool is before I start any job, all this will take me a little while.
    It's a shame I did not get the CD with it as I understand it has some test programmes which would probably have given me some idea of programming jobs.
    Richard, you are along way from needing a probe plate, it's not just a case of pluging in the probe plate. You need a macro that works out the tool offsets and some other magic behind the scenes, you will also need a modified screen set.
    Also you will be better learning how to set it manually as the probe plates are not always possible to use on some jobs so understanding how it all works is worth the time it takes to learn.

    Now regards the movement and whether to use MM's or Inch then it doesn't matter because if your Steps per setting are wrong they will be wrong for both. It's also more involved because you will have convert metric pitch to imperial which uses turns per inch.

    The steps per setting isn't something you can guess at, it's a calculated figure based on several components like I mentioned in my last post. If it's wrong by even a few digits then it will affect the accuracy. If you don't know the ballscrew pitch and the micro stepping so it can be calculated then you have to use the measurement method like I showed you. The accuracy of the Steps per then depends on how accurately you measure the distance it moved, measure it wrong and it will move the wrong distance.
    This is the Same whether you use Imperial or Metric units so changing to INCH units won't make a jot of difference. It will still be wrong in either units.

    Clive's suggestion to use G20 for inch is a workaround if you are using imperial G-code but it's less than ideal if you are using on a machine set for Metric units because it only takes into account the coordinates and not the feed rates. To see this in action try one of the G-code files included with mach3 like the roadrunner.
    This code was written for Imperial units and if you run it on a machine set in metric units using G21 then it will cut very small, 25.4 times smaller to be precise, because when it commands a move like X10 it actually means move X 10 inch but instead will move 10mm.

    Now if you use Clive's suggestion and type G20 this will put you into Imperial units and the size will be correct as X10 will move 10inch but what it doesn't do is take into account the feed rates. The imperial code will command a feed based on imperial units so lets say it calls for F100 it actually means move at 100 inch/min ( 2540mm/min) but because your system is set and tuned to metric units the feed will actually be 100mm/min and the G20 code doesn't do anything to change this.
    To get around this and use imperial code the best approach is to create another separate profile with the machine tuned for imperial units. Then when cutting imperial G-code you just load this profile and all will work correctly.

    If you would like me to explain how the coordinate systems work and how to setup cutting a job just ask.
    -use common sense, if you lack it, there is no software to help that.

    Email: [email protected]

    Web site: www.jazzcnc.co.uk

  3. #53
    Thanks Jazzcnc I used my digital vernier, which is not a cheap one and is accurate, it has to be when I am working on the lathe or any of the m/c engines I rebuild, I can assure you I did it as you said using the mach3 programme for measurment, I actually did the x axis and a axis three times and did test runs inbetween and the distance it moved was never spot on, it showed the correct distance on the screen but it varied by 0.12mm or near to that each time. Ok did not fully understand the probe, just saw it being used on a urine video and thought ,oh that looks easy, but you know what thought did :-)
    I will take you up on your offer of help and will ask later, but ask if you can imagine me as thick, and explain things simply. Or in simple steps.
    I was given a downloaded version of Mach3 by the Chinese eBay seller so never got the CD with forerunner and the other test programmes.
    I will leave things as metric, having to input different codes to change things at the stage I am at will be a disaster.
    All the best
    Richard

  4. #54
    Quote Originally Posted by RichardR View Post
    Thanks Jazzcnc I used my digital vernier, which is not a cheap one and is accurate, it has to be when I am working on the lathe or any of the m/c engines I rebuild, I can assure you I did it as you said using the mach3 programme for measurment, I actually did the x axis and a axis three times and did test runs inbetween and the distance it moved was never spot on, it showed the correct distance on the screen but it varied by 0.12mm or near to that each time.
    Ok well in that case you could have some backlash or play in the bearings which hold the ballscrews, It's not unknown for this to happen on these chinese machines as they use cheap bearings with a less than ideal method of fixing.

    Quote Originally Posted by RichardR View Post
    Ok did not fully understand the probe, just saw it being used on a urine video and thought ,oh that looks easy, but you know what thought did :-)
    It's not difficult to get working but it's also not just simply case of plugging in a wire. When your ready we can guide you threw it and help with Macro code etc but I suggest you learn the manual method first.

    Quote Originally Posted by RichardR View Post
    I will take you up on your offer of help and will ask later, but ask if you can imagine me as thick, and explain things simply. Or in simple steps.
    You've got this far so your certainly not thick but don't worry I'm used to helping new users and it's not as difficult as you probably imagine it to be.
    Ounce you under stand the difference between the two coordinate systems, which are MACHINE coords and WORK Coords , and how they relate to each other it all starts to make a lot more sense.
    Most of the time you are in WORK coordinates and the actual process of setting up and cutting a part is very very simple. In a matter of 1 or 2 min's from firing up the machine you will be cutting.

    Quote Originally Posted by RichardR View Post
    I was given a downloaded version of Mach3 by the Chinese eBay seller so never got the CD with forerunner and the other test programmes.
    I will leave things as metric, having to input different codes to change things at the stage I am at will be a disaster.
    Ok well this could be some of your problem.? These Chinese sellers are giving you pirated copies and very Old one's at that. What version of the software are you using.? you will find this info by going to the Help menu and ABOUT option. In there it will tell you the version number and the name of the license holder.

    You can download newest version of Mach3 free of charge from Artsoft. It will function and run the machine but is limited to 500 lines of G-code untill you buy the license file.
    If you do this I suggest you Rename the current Mach3 Folder to something like Mach3_OLD before installing then you don't risk losing your working setup.
    After it's installed you can copy your settings over to the new mach3 by copying the XML file of the profile you used before and dropping in the new Mach3 folder. Or you can just setup a new profile and enter all the settings in manually.

    Regards the Road runner G-code if you look in the Mach3 folder you will see another folder called Gcode, the road runner and a few other example files are in here. They have been included with Mach3 since time began and are part of the install so I'm sure they will be in your mach3 folder.
    -use common sense, if you lack it, there is no software to help that.

    Email: [email protected]

    Web site: www.jazzcnc.co.uk

  5. #55
    Thanks, I will play :-) :-)

  6. #56
    Clive S's Avatar
    Lives in Marple Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 22 Minutes Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 3,333. Received thanks 618 times, giving thanks to others 78 times. Made a monetary donation to the upkeep of the community. Is a beta tester for Machinists Network features.
    Quote Originally Posted by RichardR View Post
    Thanks, I will play :-) :-)
    Yes just stick a bit of crappy mdf on the bed and use that to play on. Then it does not matter if you wreck it. The motors will stall before you do too must damage
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  7. #57
    Only the best MDF will be used, am going to try not to wreck anything, my hand will be next to the stop button untill it finishes 😂😂😂

  8. #58
    Cutting air is very cheap, and a good way to play with the machine. ESPECIALLY whilst you have noise in the system.

  9. #59
    Quote Originally Posted by Doddy View Post
    Cutting air is very cheap, and a good way to play with the machine. ESPECIALLY whilst you have noise in the system.
    Plus one for cutting air
    Another option is to cut insulation foam board it’s normally in 50mm thick prices cuts with a bread knife and machines good enough to see what you have cut and measure it reasonably accurately but if the shit hits the fan it’s normally soft enough to not break the cutter

    I’ve seen 5axis machines at work cut a block of foam for 20 hours or more before the cutter is introduces to a £20k worth of titanium billet

    Paul


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #60
    Having set the programme and machine up so the limit home and soft home all worked I fitted a noise filter as per instructions both having been supplied by a forum member, now the limit and Home switches do not work, it had gone into e stop mode
    I have gone through the line and port settings and all is correct, however if I set the XYZ limits to active low the machine does not go into e stop but the limit switches do not work, in diagnostics the limit led do not light up, if I uncheck the active lows the programme is in e stop but the diagnostic shows the led as lit, but they do not go out when the limit switch is activated, I have checked the wiring circuit of the limit switches they are all correct, I have checked the wiring to the Bob from the switches all correct, I removed the filter and replaced the original XYZ leads and went through everything it is exactly the same,
    On manual jog if I manually activate a limit switch it goes into e stop, so that must prove the switch circuit
    Has to be something simple, I know it is difficult without being on the actual machine, but can anyone throw any light onto this please
    Regards Richard

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