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  1. #1
    RobC's Avatar
    Lives in Leeds, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 30-12-2022 Has been a member for 5-6 years. Has a total post count of 116. Received thanks 16 times, giving thanks to others 21 times.
    This is another lockdown project I've started, first time making such for me so this is a rather big learning curve. If anyone has ever built or has any knowledge of the electronics side it would be much appreciated if you could give me some directions regards to the USB connection and potentiometers. I've started machining some small pieces already but fear the gas struts I've got for the brake feedback are too high pressure being 100N which is the lowest pressure ones I've been able to find.

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    Rob

  2. #2
    RobC's Avatar
    Lives in Leeds, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 30-12-2022 Has been a member for 5-6 years. Has a total post count of 116. Received thanks 16 times, giving thanks to others 21 times.
    Forgot to mention too, I'd like to use a rotary encoder or a normal potentiometer for the rudder left/right scale located within the black circular housing but for the brakes I'm not sure if a linear potentiometer would work better.

  3. #3
    A lot depends on what you're trying to connect to. You mention USB - I'm guessing that you're then talking about some form of standard HID device (recognised as some form of input control under Windows)... in which case I can declare myself "out" from a knowledge point of view (it's an interesting area to research.. might have a play)... or you can use a simple serial interface and use the serial/USB interface inherent on just about all Arduino devices to stream encoded control/analogue data over serial/USB to dedicated software running on the PC (I do this a lot to talk to PIs, which then encapsulate data into an ethernet package for transmission on a network). This second option is certainly I can talk to you about.

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  5. #4
    RobC's Avatar
    Lives in Leeds, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 30-12-2022 Has been a member for 5-6 years. Has a total post count of 116. Received thanks 16 times, giving thanks to others 21 times.
    Well arduino would work too! I'd seen it used here and there but was venturing down the more expensive route of buying a USB interface for flight sims but arduino would be better as I've got quite a few around the place. Now I'm not sure how you get the arduino to be recognised by the flight sim but I know you can do it from other peoples builds, I can write a little code but far from being competent enough to do a whole program for this rudder setup.

  6. #5
    If you've played with Arduino, then all you're talking about is using the serial interface provided for standard/debug I/O - to send the data that you want to encode, either in binary or ASCII format. On the PC-side you're talking of developing a simple utility to poll the serial interface (ie. COM port presented into Windows from the USB driver - as enumerated when you connect the Arduino), strip off the packet information (e.g. read the serial port whilst there's characters remaining on the interface), align and validate the buffer, then extract your rudder/sensor information. From there, I guess - depending on your flight-sim - that there'll be interfacing stubs to allow data to be passed into the simulator (think I've heard this done with some commercial flight-simulator software others, at work, have tinkered with).

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  8. #6
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 15 Hours Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 2,908. Received thanks 360 times, giving thanks to others 8 times.
    In all honesty, in terms of electronics, I'd be looking at some of the flight sim forums, and any relevant Facebook groups to see how other people are interfacing sensors to the computer. From my limited knowledge of MS Flight Sim, it'll accept anything recognised as a HID device, and I'd imagine other flight sims will be similar, although there are probably options to create custom plugins for input devices.

    There are lots of microcontrollers with libraries for exactly that purpose. Having just done a quick search, there is a HID core library for Arduino, but it needs a 32u4/Due/Zero board

    As for encoder/potentiometer, potentiometer is usually a better option for controls with restricted movement, as you will always have a fixed reference/zero point/value, however you then need enough analogue inputs (although having checked even an Arduino Zero has 7 analogue inputs, while a Due has 12)
    If you use a typical incremental encoder, you then need some method to zero/calibrate the encoder position every time you power on. There is the option of using an absolute encoder, but interfacing becomes a bit more involved, as you're then either dealing with a parallel connection with lots of pins, serial data streams, or some form of communication bus (I'm sure I've seen I2C and SPI mentioned in encoder specs)
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

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  10. #7
    Very nice looking pedals. Congratulations.

    I built my own over 25 years ago, but mine was of course not as nice as yours, even though they worked well. My flying days ended (for real and for simulator) about 10 years ago and I sold my pedals, only have the yoke and the USB Gamport adapter today, which I used. In fact, having read your thread, I connected it to my computer since I never used it with W10, and it seems that it still works, calibration and all buttons and controls are confirmed by W10.

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    I don't have the actual wiring, but I remember that it was pretty simple to connect it together with the yoke. The game port has enough analogue inputs to do it, but you have to google since I don't remember exactly. In any case, analogue potentiometer is the best. Those have normally enough motion, just center it so that it can freely turn left and right. and make sure you set the pedal stops so that you don't break the potentiometer in case you have too much motion. Afterwards, when you connect it to the PC you can calibrate, so don't worry for now. Also, use a second potentiometer in series to add the possibility of trimming the rudder, like in a real plane. The second advice is to add two micro switches, or two potentiometers, one to each pedal, to allow the breaks to be realistic. Remember that a plane is not a car, so you have two breaks, one for each main gear, those are normally not synchronized, so you can break the right wheel or the left wheel separately if you need to (which happens when you fly for real).

    Anyway, I think easiest and best is to connect using a USB Geame port adapter. The advantage of that solution is that you can have almost any number of analogue inputs, while in the old days, we were limited to one or two game ports maximum, if I am not wrong.

    ...but this is far off topic for this forum, I believe you can ask for more detailed advice on a flight sim forum, or just simply google after information. Good luck and enjoy flying. The new MS flight sim is said to be fantastic, in fact, I may give it a go as well when I retire from real work in a year or two.

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  12. #8
    What CAD program were they drawn/rendered in Rob.?
    -use common sense, if you lack it, there is no software to help that.

    Email: [email protected]

    Web site: www.jazzcnc.co.uk

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  14. #9
    Hi RobC

    A fellow flight simmer I see and welcome to the rabbit hole (I've not found the bottom yet :) ).

    For the electronic side of things I would look at hall sensors and if you want an easy time of interfacing to your PC I highly recommend a Leo Bodnar board, like the BU0836A 12-Bit Joystick Controller here: http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index....2bc998a9631069

    I've been using Leo's stuff for years and have one of his boards on my modded F16 TQS (Thrustmaster Cougar).

    There are other alternatives like arduinos/teensie boards etc. but you will end up coding for that.

    Also if you're not already on Discord here's a link to a group I'm involved with on there, which have guys who just buy off the shelf to one guy I've also known for years, who has the cockpit section of a crashed F15 in his workshop: https://discord.gg/szqaJE7 I go by the handle of Mr Teatime on there and you'll find me in the DIY section normally.

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  16. #10
    At first I thought you had machined those pedals ! Very nice and shiny.

    In terms of simulators at home there was a TV programme a while ago where someone had turned a room into the starship enterprise bridge! So long as you are not upsetting anyone else then anything goes in my book.
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

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