I assume by "did not work for me" means you can't get the device to work?
I can confirm the PCB is correct (it's the one mine is built from), the schematic shows a voltage divider which will work, as will the simple variable resistor version on the pcb.
The circuit is pretty simple, as long as the PIC is programmed correctly and connected to the LCD then you should get a display.
Try the following.
Adjust the contrast - do you get anything on the display at one end of the contrast range? (This may just be squares.)
If not, check power (5v) is getting to the LCD and check the connections are correct.
If you get squares, this suggests either the PIC isn't running or the connections to the LCD are faulty (short or open circuit).
If you programmed the PIC yourself check the config bits are set (actually it doesn't look like they are contained in the .hex file in the above zip - I've attached a new .hex file that definitely has them set, please try this).
If the PIC is programmed correctly and the connections to the LCD seem ok then the only other thing that would stop it working is the area around the xtal and the two decoupling capacitors connected to it.
Hope this helps, let me know how you get on.
thanks for the prompt reply
by stating that it did not work for me , I mean that I could not have the print of the circuit board artwork with enough contrast to etch the fine tracks properly , so I've got a friend to do the artwork for me again , thanks too for posting the new hex file I will keep you posted
The PDF will be fine IF it prints out at the right size and your printer can print the blacks dense enough.
Some general tips I use for printing layouts which may help people...
I use an Epson photo printer (although I think any ink jet will do).
Use inkjet transparency paper (I bought mine from W.H Smiths - own brand).
Set the printer to black and white and use the best quality photo mode it has (This puts more ink down).
Make sure there are no blocked jets.
Put the paper in the printer, print and apply light pressure to one side has it feeds in - we need to do multiple passes and want to be sure it feeds identically each time.
Give the paper some time to dry, then repeat the above for another pass applying the same pressure in the same place to guide the paper in as it feeds. (It's not a bad idea to 'blot' the paper with a sheet of normal printer paper to remove any 'sticky' ink off the top between passes)
You should now see the blacks are pretty solid. If you want to be absolutely sure you cand do a 3rd pass - however I find it takes all night for the ink to dry enough before this becomes possible.
You should now have a high quality transparency, the rest depends on the photo board you use, chemical strengths etc. If in doubt it's not usually a bad idea to do exposure tests with scrap board similar to what you'd do in old fashioned photography.
Hope this helps.
before all compliment for your project!!!
I have simulated it with proteus and works but i can not understand a thing
why when i push direction pos : 0.000 became 0.***?
Sorry but my english it is very poor
The divider shows the current position in 'real time', however it can't update the screen fast enough for the numbers to the right of the '.' to make sense.
So whilst the table is moving I blank the numbers to the right of the decimal by replacing them with '*'s. When the table has finished I reprint the correct number.
Someone sent me a link to some video of their rotary table they'd built to the design, for anyone interested you can see its construction and simple usage.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIAeic1DEoc"]YouTube - Digital indexer added to Shoba 6" rotary table[/ame]
I want one....
Don't know what for but i like a challenge.
Just had a quick flick through the thread and tell me if i have missed anything, can i mill the pcb on my router from your files? if so what type of blank board will be best and where would you suggest to get it from?
Sourcing electronic components should not be a problem but what about PIC programming? Will I need to buy a PIC programmer? looked into PIC programming before but never bought anything because I did not know what i would need.
I have a reasonable understanding of electronics but still a first build virgin so any help would be most appreciated!
I don't provide anything for milling PCB's, the overlays are intended for photo reproduction. However it's a fairly simple circuit, easily breadboarded or made on vero-board. So you may wish to go that route or figure out your own milled version (which of course you'll post on here for the general good. ;-)
Don't know if there's much point buying a PIC programmer for one job, someone on here did post that they'd program PIC's, or alternatively refund me the cost of the chip and postage and I'll send you one.
If you do wish to buy a programmer there are many fairly cheap devices on the web/eBay along with public domain software - plus many designs which can easily be made.
For general mucking around with PIC's I used stuff by Mikroelektronika (http://www.mikroe.com/ probably a bit pricey if you just want to program the odd PIC but for general mucking around I find them excellent...
as you can see pos is always 0.000 I have simulated div
I'm unsure about how the proteus simulator works - however I should point out the movement is performed using interrupts - these are pretty rapid too (up to 10,000 per second). I'd guess that the simulator either can't handle interrupts or can't handle them at that speed.
Thank you for sharing this project and sorry for my bad English. I would like to make a suggestion. I have noticed that when the motor is stopped the windings are not powered, so the shaft is free and can change position during normal use. It could be better to add the possibility to keep the driver activated in order to hold the shaft of the motor when it stops.
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