Smiler's Build

[Smiler]

Module 1.0 (3.141 pitch) from World of CNC (Yeah right!)

Driven through a 3:1 belt drive reduction.

Don't think I'd do anything different at all. The motor doesn't need to turn quickly to get a decent rapid which also means lots of torque left in the motor but the 3:1 reduction gives a good level of accuracy.

To be honest with you, I took the advice of David Steele at Solsylva. He's done the research and I just followed it.

Regards, Jeff

[Lee Roberts]

I hear ya....It's grim up north :D

Iii it is nothing but rain and more rain all week and all weekend !

(Wigan)

[Smiler]

Try Halifax rack and screw...Rumour has it they make R&P :D

I tried them and at the time they were too busy for my piddling little order. Rhino would only export so it was back to good ol' MDL

Bet your not busy now Mr Halifax rack n screw! Bet you'd kill for my piddling order for 10 ft of Mod 1.0, well tough titty!

There, that feels better.

[Smiler]

Been busy doing a few more "upgrades" i.e. a total rewire of the router. Replaced the "Spring pole" method of carrying the cables (Sorry Irving, tried it but it was soooo cumbersome" with Igus cablechain courtesy of BungalowDog. Just about managed to cram all the wires in and it looks very neat too. Speaking of wires, I also managed to grab 40 metres of screened 4 core mains cable for 25 quid to replace the unscreened stuff I'd blagged from work, now maybe the island won't lose radio 1&2 every time I turn the machine on . To finish off, I've covered the cables coming off the machine to the controller with the Polyester sleeving from Lee's eBay recommendation, super stuff and it don't half hold those fat cables close together.

Post pics as soon as I have all the plugs soldered back on.

Got another sign to do very soon and I think I'll be videoing this one for t'tube.

Take care all, watch those fingers!

regards, Jeff.

[Smiler]

While your clicking take a pic of back side for me so i can see how you mounted motors, shafts etc. . .

Will do.

I promised to say how my machine handled ally.....

Well it wasn't disastrous as you might expect, in fact it went really really well up to a point. I decided to mill out a new holder bracket for my cross hair laser (if you have a router you NEEED one!) so I did the model at work on Solidworks, passed it to Mastercam and got out me G-code, luvly.

Borrowed a milling vice, top. Mounted it to the router base, excellent. plonked in the 25mm thick ally block , squared it all up, leveled it etc, etc. and pressed the big green button. First the surface was milled, lovely finish, then the hole for the laser got pocketed, went perfectly. Then the dificult bit, cutting the profile 3mm per stepdown (didn't want to get too ambitious), it was going amazingly well, really smooth and chips flying everywhere when ....silence, router stopped almost instantly, control box shut down, Mach went into Emergency mode like I'd pressed E-stop.

First I thought an RCD had tripped but that was all ok but after an hour of fruitless searching I found the cause. The extension I would normally use until I get the machine wired in was being used on the pressure washer so I'd grabbed another....5 AMP Fuse in the plug!!!!!!!!! ARRRGGGHHH

Part is scrapped of course, milling cutter is choked with ally and will need TLC but other than that a good start, can only think it will be better when I get a real spindle and VFD. Going to have another go anyway.

Hate to do this for a job but as a hobby it is the dogs dangly bits (well not my dog as she is a girl).

Jeff.

[dickieto]

:wave:hello smiler just thought i would introduce myself,i've been reading your thread with great intrest as i am planning to build router for alloy.
i dont see any photos in thread, is it just me,i'm new to all this forum stuff
would it be possible to send me photos?failing that could just swim cross from ardrossan to see your machine!!:heehee:
Tom

[Smiler]

Hi Tom and everyone,

There was a problem with my build log and a spammer (damn him to Hell) and the links to my photos have somehow been deleted in the restoration (damn you to Hell Lee).

I'll upload them into Lee's filesystem where they will be safe:heehee: and the build can continue.

Jeff

[Smiler]

I've looked over this thread and there are some crucial posts missing from when Mr Kip was around which if I inserted photos into the messages I need to would make it look even sillier than it does so I'll post the remaining ones here. They are in the gallery now so should be safe:heehee::heehee:

If anyone is building a machine and wants photos of how I did someting just ask and I'll get them uploaded.





And some signs I made with the machine.







I'll upload a load more soon. The machine has moved on since these were taken and I've lots to add (4th axis started, all cables now in energy chain, laser zero finder, touchscreen etc. etc.....). Like I say, if you need photos of any particular part, just shout.

Jeff

[99brownd]

Hello Jeff,

Great Build and an interesting read.

I too have built my own router but I am currently using a standard breakout port, however I have had many problems with it. Therefore I have been looking for a buffered and isolated breakout board and have been recomended the optoport by Roy from DIYCNC. Before I was looking at the bidrectional from CNC4PC but went to DIYCNC.

Basically all I want to know is how well do Roy's cards work? Were you pleased with the optoport before you blew it? Do they work fine with Mach 3. Also what homing switches are you using, still the microswitches? I am wanting to go onto proximity switches but would like to know how well they work with the optoport card. Do you use your switches NC and Active HIgh or NO?

Is it possible to send an image of your electronics?

Thanks,

Dan.

[Smiler]

Hello Jeff,

Great Build and an interesting read.

I too have built my own router but I am currently using a standard breakout port, however I have had many problems with it. Therefore I have been looking for a buffered and isolated breakout board and have been recomended the optoport by Roy from DIYCNC. Before I was looking at the bidrectional from CNC4PC but went to DIYCNC.

Good choice, John S. will vouch for Roy's boards too. A buffered, opto isolated card is a big plus IMO if there is an electrical problem it will keep it within the card and not send it on to your PC. I also use a Smoothstepper because at the time I had to use a laptop, The Optoport worked fine with that too, in fact it was the opto isolation that stopped my Smoothstepper getting fried.

Basically all I want to know is how well do Roy's cards work? Were you pleased with the optoport before you blew it? Do they work fine with Mach 3.

They work as well as any other BOB, I never had a single problem that could be put down to the Optoport.

Also what homing switches are you using, still the microswitches? I am wanting to go onto proximity switches but would like to know how well they work with the optoport card. Do you use your switches NC and Active HIgh or NO?

Is it possible to send an image of your electronics?

Thanks,

Dan.

I use the simple microswitches with the little roller on an arm. Simple, reliable, repeatable. I use them NC connected in series Active High, that way, should a limit/homing wire be cut or a switch fail (happened once), the machine will stop.

I know people use proximity switches and have success with them (Techserv) and if you are using separate limits and homing switches, I'd use them on the limits, after all, if you hit your limits, you aren't going to worry about their accuracy or repeatability as long as they switch and stop the machine. For homing, I'm not too sure about them. I've never found affordable (by DIY'ers) prox switches that had the repeatable accuracy that would be a match for simple microswitches in the vital homing situation where Mach automatically homes the machine. Important when you are using jigs and offsets.

Also, my limit switches double as my homing switches which apart from the cost savings, removes a whole level of wiring complexity and faultfinding when something goes wrong. I just don't think you can beat the microswitch, it's tried tested, reliable, accurate, repeatable, simple and just plain works in all sorts of conditions.

Just my opinion of course, others will disagree and there may be new types on the market I haven't tried. Is there a reason you are leaning toward proximity switches?

I'll get a photo of the electricals posted ASAP for you.