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  1. Just a thought: you might be able to shear them cleanly enough to finish in a tumbler.

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by HankMcSpank View Post
    DIY Nickel plating - not that expensive or onerous
    I got my nickel kit from GLR. Were you planning to hang them individually or simply plate then in to one solid lump? IMHO a commercial plater is a much better bet and not expensive, it's a cut throat business.

  3. #13
    Hi Rob

    I'm fine thanks no time for playing at the moment tho :sad:

    Sorry for the confusion, with you calling it M5 I just assumed M5 thread!

    Hope you get sorted soon.

    Regards

    Andy

  4. #14
    As for the thinner cut off blade you could use the old model engineer trick and use a hss hack saw blade as you only need to part off 5mm not much blade sticking out.
    I have done it myself but you have to get it just right with minimum over hang but it does work.
    You could also look up electroless nickel plating it may do for what you want.

    peter

  5. #15
    NB70's Avatar
    Lives in Swansea, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 2 Days Ago Has been a member for 8-9 years. Has a total post count of 44. Received thanks 5 times, giving thanks to others 3 times.
    These have a nice rounded end on them that would look good as a pickup or sustainer pole-piece:
    http://www.mutr.co.uk/product_info.p...oducts_id=1420
    You would have to cut them in half to get them to the required length, but the cut end could go underneath the pickup where no-one would see it,
    They are precision ground so they should be a consistent size,
    Nathan

  6. #16
    And the winner is .......NB70 - tks matey.....I've seen that site before -....great value stuff on there (just got to work out what else I'll never use to bump my order up!)

    5mm x 19.8mm @45p for 10 pcs - both ends useable so after parting off to the right size that's in essence that 39p for 20! (which equate to about 2p per pole pice - far more digestable vs 40p per pol & might even mean I can make some early prototypes for a decent price!).


    Peter - a wonderful idea about using a hacksaw blade...I'll see what google turn ups...but how are they normally held?
    Many thanks to all who chimed in here - some great ideas & comments - you're a great big font of helpful engineering knowledge & willing to help 'wet behind the ears' types like me!

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by HankMcSpank View Post
    5mm x 19.8mm @45p for 10 pcs - both ends useable so after parting off to the right size that's in essence that 39p for 20!
    You are going to cut through a roller bearing pin?

    You don't think it might be as hard as the top of God's head? :whistling:

  8. You don't think it might be as hard as the top of God's head? :whistling:
    LOL


    Actually, they seem pretty cheap for bearing rollers so they may not be hardened. But, if they are Hank, the only way you'll cut them is with a friction saw

  9. Not to pour more water on the fire, but you need to ask what material they are made of... hardened roller pins are likely to have a very high carbon content and may not magnetically work as well as you'd like. It might be worth asking if they can provide a sample pack before you embark on a large order to meet the 10 min order value...

  10. #20
    If you are going to cut them with a parting off tool why not just cut them from ordinary steel stock?

    If you get the height and tip angle right it will part the piece off, pip and burr free, then go on to trim the pip off the next one.

    Position the tail stock so you can advance the stock just so, but put a piece of metal in between when advancing so the stock doesn't touch the centre when parting. The parting off tool might not like that because that part can't fall without twisting.

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