Thread: Reconditioning a Relmac lathe
Yes I understood your thining, but I would prefer to do them at the same time (not bore them simultaneously, but in one session without tearing the fixture down). Since I want to pour both bearings at the same time. Your approach would require two bearing blocks, to fit the unbored bearing as well as the bored one. Unlike kingpins they will be significantly different sizes - the unbored one approx 1" dia, bored it will be 1.25" +0.002/-0.000.
I am planning to use 20mm dia round rail as rhis is cheap to get and guaranted straight. Although it is hardened so I will need to gring some surface off bore milling some flats on it and drilling 3/4 way through for a 6mm cutter and the remainder of the hole 3mm tapped M3 for a pusher screw. There will also be a 3mm locking screw at right angles. The end thread will be used to push the cutter out and so accurately set the boring size (1 turn of screw = 0.5mm)
Thats exactly it, except i dont have the luxury of moving the headstock, but the idea is the same...
I have three tailstocks, so i was thinking of removing the centres from two of them and fitting then with oilite inserts to act as bearings for the boring bar... this wil allow the bar to turn as well as be fed
I solved the problem of moving the motor by using a snake drive off my electric drill which has a low speed control
Now... how to regrind the vertical bearing face of the bed....
Wow!,Irving you must have the patience of saint?
The moment I would have come across the cracked bearing and the condition of the spindle shaft,I'd have given up there and then.
By the way what do you gys use for removing rust?
Here's the easiest way and believe me it works a treat,expensive but it can be diluted and used again with adding a bit of new solution to the used liquid.
It does what it says on the tin. :naughty:
bill,intresting to hear you have a buma portable borer l worked for them for about 20yrs off and on good little machine although l would say that as l milled all the parts they were first made with power stations in mind we done alot of breakdown parts for them obviously when a power station is having a problem with a part they dont want to stop production of electricity so to avoid stripping down lengthy and expensive procedure they bored part out where it was sleeved it finished bored it only replacing part when it was unsalvagable that mean they could plan a big strip down and have alternate backup whilst replacing it a lot of them went overseas it was only a small outfit but had a good reputation-happy days look after it will be rare in a few yrs time
Chris: Sorry missed your post (email notification not working here) and Sorry but I can't find a picture ATM (I know I have one somewhere)
Onecut: My one is missing a couple of bits and is in need of a service, so I may be quizzing you about them later :)
bill.dont know if l will be of any help to you but you never know obviously buma,s is no longer there the old man died a true engineer passing on to his son without being rude he knew absolutely zero about engineering quickly sold place first chance he got to a large well known supermarket chain and a large superstore is now there so spare parts will be difficult to get but at least you have an edge, me l know the then works manager was allowed to take the blueprints of buma borer and he does or did supply spares and l have his phone number at worste he might give you a drawing of the part you are after-onecut
By Bodge in forum Lathes, Lathe Rebuilding & ConversionsReplies: 9Last Post: 18-04-2012, 09:45 AM