Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
  1. #21
    Would it help to stick the pin in the freezer and the end of the screw in boiling oil.

  2. #22
    You have been watching too many medieval siege films.

    .
    John S -

  3. #23
    This is a method to fit main bearings into an aluminium crankcase, instead of being a tight fit with the risk of damage using this method the bearing would just drop. It is also used on high speed drills and collets.

  4. #24
    Sorry I missed the smiley. :lol: :lol:
    You are not American are you ? :whistling: :whistling:
    John S -

  5. #25
    I think I have read about every thread, tutorial and watched every youtube video on ball screw end machining there is. Now im about to start machining some screws for my laser cutter.

    I was about to start by grinding of the hard casing with a bench grinder, but I reckon my 15mm diameter rolled screws will still be hard at the required 12mm dia for the bearings.

    I only have a Myford MLR so carbide tips are out, so I reckon the steel rod glued into the ball screw sound like the best idea.

    Has anyone got any suggestions as to the best type/number of loctite to use.

  6. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by gavztheouch View Post
    I was about to start by grinding of the hard casing with a bench grinder, but I reckon my 15mm diameter rolled screws will still be hard at the required 12mm dia for the bearings.
    Not necceserialy If chinese origin then think you'll find there only 3-4mm of hardening.?
    I've machined a few, I use indexed tipped tooling and buy tips from cutwell tools designed for cutting hard materials. They easily deal with hardening, my lathe is a bit more robust than the myford but it's only a boxford AUD so not exactly heavy duty.!!

    Maybe some body's got a bit of an offcut that you could practice on.? . . . Don't think I have but will have a dig about if you want to try.?

    EDIT: Opp's sorry didn't read properly didn't see the 12mm dia,yes it will probably still be hard but the hard tips will still handle the hardening on chinese screws.!!
    Last edited by JAZZCNC; 14-06-2012 at 08:46 PM.

  7. #27
    Problem is here that the OD at 15mm will start to become the softer core at 12mm but the roots of the thread will still be hard so it's very hard to get an even finish at the 12 mm diameter.
    For 15 down to 12 I'd grind them on a cylindrical grinder, only way to get a true surface.

    can you redesign and go down to 10mm ?
    John S -

  8. #28
    Thanks,

    I think they are Chinese, they are branded Gten. Definitely not top quality whatever they are?

    What sort of carbide holder and tips would you recommend? I am looking to try a carbide holder for my Myford so a nice general shaped holder would be ideal, but I am new to lathes and don't know what that would be?

    Thanks for the ball screw offer, but I ordered some extra length on each ball screw to try it out.

    The only problem would be I have a HSS threading tool and the 12 dia might still be too hard to thread with that.

  9. #29
    Can you redesign and go down to 10mm ?
    Yes I can, bearings are bought already but hopefully it will not be a problem to swap if I pay the postage.

    John S would it not be a good idea to try your steel plug trick?

    How does everyone indicate there ball screws in the chuck? I know of a method by 5bears.com

    And here is a great tutorial using a Derlin rod machined to slip onto the ball screw to give you a surface to indicate off. Is there any other way of doing this? http://www.5bears.com/cnc16.htm
    Last edited by gavztheouch; 14-06-2012 at 09:19 PM.

  10. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by gavztheouch View Post
    Thanks,

    I think they are Chinese, they are branded Gten. Definitely not top quality whatever they are?
    I recently machined some Gten 15mm ballscrews ... they were a nightmare compared to the standard Chinese (RM1610, RM1204 etc) ones I've done. The metal was still very hard at 12mm, so no chance of getting anything like a good enough tolerance/finish to fit a bearing unless you have a cylindrical grinder as John S suggested. Instead I just annealed the ends of the screws using the wet rag technique to limit how much is annealed, then it was easy. I didn't want to go down the putting bar into the ends of the screws since these ballcsrews were going to be put in tension - not sure if they'd hold up to that?

    This is what it turned out like:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC09397 (Medium).JPG 
Views:	358 
Size:	108.8 KB 
ID:	6134
    Old router build log here. New router build log here. Lathe build log here.
    Electric motorbike project here.

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. have you put ball screws on an X2plus?
    By bmbaz in forum Milling Machines, Builds & Conversions
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 14-05-2014, 06:56 PM
  2. buying ball screws
    By bmbaz in forum Marketplace Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 10-05-2014, 03:57 PM
  3. How to pre load screws
    By graham4877 in forum Lead Screws, Nuts & Supports
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 14-08-2012, 11:07 AM
  4. Two ball screws for my x axis and two motors, do i need two drivers?
    By luke11cnc in forum Gantry/Router Machines & Building
    Replies: 26
    Last Post: 12-08-2011, 12:55 AM
  5. Replies: 6
    Last Post: 26-05-2011, 01:10 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •