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  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by gavztheouch View Post
    Yes I can, bearings are bought already but hopefully it will not be a problem to swap if I pay the postage.

    John S would it not be a good idea to try your steel plug trick?
    If you can go for 10mm I'd definitely do that... it will be much easier.
    Old router build log here. New router build log here. Lathe build log here.
    Electric motorbike project here.

  2. #32
    Those look pretty good. My screws won't be in tension and I have duel screws driving a lightweight 1.3M laser cutting gantry (Tube not mounted on gantry). So all things considered I should get away with the steel plug concept and if I mess it up I can rebore and start again?

  3. The 1520 will most definitely be hard at the 12mm.
    you are best to anneal the ends or use a cylindrical grinder.
    The engineer i use to machine our ballscrews does need to anneal the ends from time to time.

  4. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by gavztheouch View Post
    What sort of carbide holder and tips would you recommend? I am looking to try a carbide holder for my Myford so a nice general shaped holder would be ideal, but I am new to lathes and don't know what that would be?
    Will need the smaller holders which often have CCMT tips. The holder I use is SCLC with CCGT or CCMT tips and this the company I use.
    They arn't the cheapist but they are quality, Can't remember the number of the tips I just told them what I wanted to do and they sent me the tips. They've worked a treat on hardened screws I've done thou I dont get more than 2 screws per tip (1 screw per tip turn) and it's slow away stuff. ( I use them on softer materials like ALu or delrin when the edge goes off on hardened stuff).

    BUT . . . If your new to turning then I strongly urge you to practice on some scrap before you try machining ballscrews for real.!! . . . You don't often get a second chance.!!

    Same goes with threading, if you haven't done much threading then get plenty of practice before attempting on ballscrews because like John S mentions the hardening hisn't always consistant so can easily have soft and hard spots which can make threading a real bitch, esp on a small machine that flexs.!! Again I use indexed tipped threading tool, to be honest I can't be arsed with HSS and grinding for standard stuff like threads or run the mill turning and only grind for special or awkward jobs.!! . . . Yes it's more expensive but not too much when you consider the time saving and repeatabilty of tipped tooling.!
    Annealing works but again got to be done carefully and correct other wise can spread up the screw further than desired.!!

    Practice and practice a bit more is my advice then go for it if you feel confident.!!

  5. #35
    Thanks for the tips Jazz I made a start on some practice pieces.

    For these I started with a piece of m12 threaded rod to represent my ball screw and bored a 6mm hole to recieve the steel rod I partially turned down to fit inside. The rest of the rod was left at 16mm. The weld held well when turning which is much more abusive than driving a lightly loaded screw, however im worried about the heat the welder injects into the screw. Maybe the loctite is still the best option?

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