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  1. #91
    Quote Originally Posted by Wobblycogs View Post
    Obviously not a job for now but looking at the way the shed is built I wonder if you could attach insulation to the outside? The ears would act as a natural edge for the insulation and somewhere to fix light boarding. It looks like you have pretty good overhang on the roof everywhere but the back so you might be good to go. It would be good to maintain the space on the inside and it would make hanging tools up easier - just bang a nail in.
    Great idea Wobbly.... Now that's what I really call..... Thinking Outside The Box!

  2. #92
    Quote Originally Posted by WandrinAndy View Post
    Great idea Wobbly.... Now that's what I really call..... Thinking Outside The Box!
    Good one Andy!! The only issue with doing the outside of the shed/log cabin is that it obscures the logs which look better than shiplap (in my opinion)...


  3. #93
    Quote Originally Posted by njhussey View Post
    The only issue with doing the outside of the shed/log cabin is that it obscures the logs which look better than shiplap (in my opinion)...
    You can buy loglap.. If that's you sort of thing!

    Worth warning that your walls might shrink a bit in height. So if you batten directly to them, without giving them room to move or you might get some gaps. Looks really smart inside.

  4. #94
    ~andy, I don't really want to buy more loglap to put over the outside to make it look like a log cabin again (seems silly to cover it up and then pay extra to make it look like it did before you covered it up in the first place...!!) so will probably go for insulating on the inside and losing some room inside. Will probably batten horizontally (air gap) then put Celotex insulation against this and then sheets of ply 12mm thick.


  5. #95
    Was hoping to finish the roof off yesterday on the shed but it was raining all last night and tonight I'm out so it's going to have to be Friday. I've only got another 12 or so boards to put on and then the felt so should only be a couple of hours work, although manhandling the felt roll on the roof will be fun! Oh and I need to attach the guttering. Hoping to visit B&Q and get some 3x2 to make a workbench frame at some stage soon as well so I can crack on with my build (and build a couple of new RC helicopters...)

    Last night I ordered the THK (15mm) & NSK (20mm) linear rails from eBay so this project is starting to move on a bit now at last. Managed to get a 1190mm long pair of 15mm rails with 8 blocks so I can cut it down to 750mm and 420mm and get both Y & Z axis rails out of it, worked out cheaper than buying 2 separate lots. Total for the rails was 405 including shipping, so I'll get caught for some import duty but not too much I hope. Just had notice that they've been shipped so I'd best get busy finalising my design and start fabricating the frame Going to order the ballscrews today from Chai...

    Thinking of getting an Evolution Fury 5 table saw to cut my Aluminium plate into the correct sizes as they say (and show on the videos) that it can cut aluminium and steel...we'll see!


  6. #96
    Just swapped the supported round rail for linear rails and also turned the Z axis 180 so the chips will not collect on the ballscrew or mount. I've also dropped the Z axis stepper behind the upright and it will be connected by belt (1605 with 1:1 connection to the stepper) It will have a cover over/round it and I'll look at making a cover for the rest of the Z axis. I've now gained 50mm of Z travel so total travel now 200mm. For the Z axis rail mounts I've had to raise them on some 20mm plate strips to get the 1605 ballscrew in there. Will have to make a low profile mount but that's the least of my worries!

    Changing the X axis to single stepper and belt drive, yet to work out the finer details of supporting/tensioning pulleys.

    Anything that you peeps can see that could do with altering? I've tried to keep most of the plates with straight edges so I can cut them myself. the only ones I've left with curves and machining are the Y axis end plates. I could always make these with straight edges and no machining!

    The actual router frame is removable from the upright frame so that If so wished it can be put on a flat surface if ever required. Also for working on (pouring epoxy resin for levelling the rails for example) it will be easier than trying to tip the whole frame.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #97
    i really like it neil.

    stupid question, and one im sure you have already though about it, but incase you havent, the total height (when on vertical stand) is going to fit in your new shed right? cant remember your total dimensions...

  8. #98
    Thank you!!

    Yes shed is 2.4m at the apex and just over 2m at the sides. This is 1.8m total height....also got double doors so can get it in and out again...
    Last edited by njhussey; 13-09-2013 at 02:31 PM.


  9. #99
    also... dont get stung like i did initially on the accessable area... remember you have lots of wasted accessable area at the top of your machine... where you could perhaps extend the bed or add a vice etc... and there is a void of unaccesssable space at the bottom...Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #100
    I was thinking about that earlier. I was going to shorten the bottom and put a vice on but then decided to reverse the Y axis to stop chips from collecting on the ballscrew and bearings. Don't fancy having a vice at the top but might shorten the bed and make provision for a 4th axis.

    The cutting area I was aiming for was 1000mm x 500mm and this just about gives me this so was going to leave as is but you've tempted me to have another look


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