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  1. #361
    Quote Originally Posted by EddyCurrent View Post
    Hooray ! it's done, the build will speed up now that hurdle is out of the way, looks good and a plus for Reactive Resins
    Cheers, yes the build will speed up now....looking forward to cracking on with this in the new year!!


  2. #362
    Wow, that's one heck of a nice job you've done there. I will most certainly be asking for guidance when it's my turn to run the epoxy gauntlet.

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  4. #363
    Cheers Graham, as with everything the key is in the preparation.

    I was looking at the leaks before I left work this afternoon and all the leaks are actually where the mdf was joined. Next time I'll have more time and use wood glue and then seal the joints with sealant. Will also use more silicone sealant under the moat as it's easy to get off the metal.


  5. #364
    Sat down after Christmas dinner and I really want to pop into work to see how the epoxy is doing.....there's no hope for me I know!

    I have decided to use the 20mm thick Ali plate (don't know the grade) as a bed for it. I'll buy the bits for the Y axis gantry and the Z axis in eco cast, especially as work are paying for it ill get it on order when I get back to work so I can crack on ASAP.



  6. #365
    Just popped in to work as I was round the corner recycling some of the Xmas paper, boxes etc. It's set nice and hard, shiny and smooth. It's going to be a pain getting the moat off and the silicone sealant but overall I'm happy with it.

    Last edited by njhussey; 28-12-2014 at 06:18 PM.


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  8. #366
    Great job, looks like that epoxy came out perfectly! I've had some good luck removing sealer with a hard wire brush.

  9. #367
    Ok so the MDF moat is off, wasn't too bad to get off in the end.....but in hindsight I'd make sure the MDF was not oily (been hanging around in the machine shop for a couple of months) and put brown parcel tape on it as it doesn't stick to it and comes off cleanly. I'd also put parcel tape on the steel where the moat was going so that the silicone came off easier too. It's nothing that a bit of elbow grease won't sort. I've found the best tool to scrape off the MDF is an indexable lathe tool...not scraped it fully in the below picture

    Here you can see the meniscus, the epoxy is about 7mm thick.

    Here you can see the difference between the wrong ratio mix of epoxy and the correct...the incorrect is on the right and although you probably can't see it the epoxy is a bit grainy looking and opaque whilst the correctly mixed epoxy is far more translucent and shiny...

    Last edited by njhussey; 06-01-2015 at 09:02 AM.


  10. #368
    One rail is done and the other is half done. More MDF stuck to the epoxy on this side so it's taking longer to get off...



  11. #369
    Quick video of me getting a section of the MDF and silicone sealant off today.

    Also filing down the meniscus on both sides.

    Last edited by njhussey; 06-01-2015 at 09:04 AM.


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  13. #370
    Lee Roberts's Avatar
    Lives in Wigan, United Kingdom. Current Activity: Viewing Moderator Control Panel Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 2,555. Received thanks 169 times, giving thanks to others 656 times. Made a monetary donation to the upkeep of the community. Referred 10 members to the community.
    If its not to late in the clean up game, get yourself down to the nearest UPVC setup, ask them for a bottle of PVC cleaner, you want the clear stuff not the "jiff like" stuff, it's great I use it for everything it's designed to desolve silicon sealant and it dose so like magic, it doesn't turn it into a pasty mess like you would think it just somehow frees the silly up enough that you can just peel it off.

    Seriously, get some anyway it removes all sorts really well. I use ISOPROPYL for some stuff but the PVC cleaner works great for allot of things, 2.50 here for a one 1ltr bottle.

    Last edited by Lee Roberts; 05-01-2015 at 09:27 PM.

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